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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: BeckyW
Date: 07-04-2006, 12:13 PM (1 of 3)
I am making a little flower girl dress for a friends daughter. The bride supplied me with a XL ladies dress to use for the fabric. I am making McCall's 4763 . It all seems simple enough. I made a couple of muslins to get the fit perfect, since I have not sewn for this child before. I bought some similar color 100% polyester lining fabric to line the bodice. I started getting pretty nervous last night when I cut it out. I realized the starting dress was cut on the bias. It is 100% rayon. The dress I am making is to be cut on straight of grain. Due to fabric constraint, I have no choice but to cut this dress on the bias. This pattern I am making has a zipper down the back. I purchased an invisible zipper. I am really nervous that the fabric will be stretched when I install the zipper. I am also worried that the bodice will get a baggie look in the front. I am tempted to use some very thin iron-on type interfacing over the whole bodice(I know there is a name other than interfacing for the product I am talking about, but I can't remember what it is called. It is very thin like a spider web.)

I would appreciate any advice. I can't make a mess of this. I can't get more fabric.
User: BeckyW
Member since: 12-25-2004
Total posts: 24
From: AndreaSews
Date: 07-04-2006, 05:04 PM (2 of 3)
Hi Becky. Some fashion pattern makers would argue that there's little reason to get crazy over working with a straight grain, other than tradition (Peggy Sagers, for ex). I think a little stabilizer along the seam allowances ought to do the trick. That will prevent the bias from stretching as you handle it. I'm also stuck on words here, but you can buy it on a roll in 5/8 inch width. There are a couple of different brands. Stitch Witchery? Seams Great? They tend to have a slightly adhesive side to help you stick it onto the edge of the fabric, and then you steam them in place. You can do that along shoulders, hemline, and where the bodice and skirt portions meet, and also along the zipper seams. In fact, I think it's good to use a little stabilizer any time I do a zipper. I also find that they look tidier if you baste with a long machine stitch and then stitch it in by hand. If you let it hang on a hanger for a night or two before you hem it, you should be fine. That will give the fabric time to settle and stretch to its final shape before you measure, mark and stitch the hem.
User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005
Total posts: 1007
From: paroper
Date: 07-06-2006, 09:10 AM (3 of 3)
I agree with the iron on interfacing/stabilizer. Since your zipper is invisible I think that I'd ease that 5/8 in stabilizer just a smidge into the garment 1/8 inch? Just enough to be SURE that my seam goes into the stabilizer. There is also a type of tape you could use to hold the zipper into place. The tape washes away if you wash the garment and it doesn't gum your needles. You can find it on the notions wall of your local fabric store.

If the front and the back of the dress are both cut on the bias the pull of the garment should be no problem.

Another idea you might consider is that if you are terribly concerned about the zipper you COULD use the loop tape they use on bridal dresses down the back and sew buttons on the other side...just add a slight facing to the button side of the garment to go into any opening you might have.....

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
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