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From: sewewesful
Date: 07-22-2006, 10:30 AM (1 of 13)
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I am sewing Simplicity 5238 view C and am having difficulty having the top fit after attaching the overlay. I re-measured the shell I made and the maid of honor and both are correct. When she tried on the actual top (without the zipper), it did not even come together from the top of the dress down to the waist. I even added about 1/4 inch on each side just to give me a little more seam allowance for the zipper. The pattern does suggest tulle; (the bride picked out a coordinating satin, organza, and lining). When I gathered both sides of the bodice overlay pieces and attached them to the corresponding bodice piece, they seemed to pull in the fashion piece and I noticed the rippling fabric under the overlay -which was poofy from the gathers- when she tried the dress on, but I thought this would pull out when I pulled the back together, but could not get the edges to come together! I am trying a ruffler attachment on different settings and added a little extra to the side seams of the overlay, so the freying would not shorten the seam allowance. Can anyone offer ANY suggestions? |
User: sewewesful
Member since: 07-08-2006 Total posts: 9 |
From: Patty22
Date: 07-22-2006, 06:43 PM (2 of 13)
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I was going to suggest gathering a large section of the organza and then lying the bodice piece ontop, securing with a basting stitch and then cutting out the piece treating it as one unit. However, upon looking at the pattern, it has a form fitted top and the organza is an overlay ontop of your seamed bodice. Is it possible you cut the organza from the wrong size pattern than the satin piece? Otherwise, I have no clue as to remedy this other than having the bodice piece on a dressform and then draping the organza overlay to fit before cutting. Maybe others will offer you more insight.  Good luck......
Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-22-2006, 06:46 PM (3 of 13)
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I can't imagine because the satin (or satan as Dorothy says) shouldn't stretch. Usually when I do satin with an overlay I lay everything very flat on the cutting table and pin it in place. If it is a bust piece where everything will be sewn into place, I just baste all the way around the fabric and then treat it as one piece. My guess is that one of two things happened. Either the overlay was stretched a little when it was cut so that when it relaxed it changed shape (can happen) OR more likely it moved when you cut it...and that can easily happen with an organza type material.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-22-2006, 06:51 PM (4 of 13)
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(or satan as Dorothy says) OK, OK, enough already. Although when I was making that skirt I sure felt that way! Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Magot
Date: 07-23-2006, 08:58 AM (5 of 13)
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(.....I thought you were joking about my pagan wedding, Dorothy....)
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626 
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From: sewewesful
Date: 07-23-2006, 01:10 PM (6 of 13)
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The bodice is fitted; princess seams in front, boning in the lining. Each piece of the overlay is gathered on both sides, basted to the corresponding satin piece and then seamed together to construct the bodice. The back pieces are not gathered. I checked and double checked the size. The overlay pieces are different than the bodice pieces. I will pay more attention to the grain when I cut another piece, but it seems pretty straight. I do have a dress form-although it is larger-that I thought might be of some help. I DO appreciate your comments, thank you. sewewesful |
User: sewewesful
Member since: 07-08-2006 Total posts: 9 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-23-2006, 01:16 PM (7 of 13)
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I have had a few problems with Simplicity in the past. I have done a lot of sewing and it doesn't happen very often..but I have had a few "oddities" in Simplicity that I haven't found in other patterns. Your overlay should be a little larger than the piece underneath. Lay out your "regular" piece and lightly, with your finger gather the top piece to see how it fits the bottom. You could be dealing with some sort of missprint or mistake in the pattern sizing. If worse comes to worse you could draft your own overlay...but check this out first and see if there is a problem in the pattern itself.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Patty22
Date: 07-23-2006, 05:10 PM (8 of 13)
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Is it possible that your overlay should have been cut out on the bias rather than the straight of grain. This would certainly account for the organza acting the way it did - I think it would have had more give on the bias and therefore wouldn't make the satin piece pucker. Just a thought.... Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-23-2006, 07:29 PM (9 of 13)
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As far as the satin puckering...not the size issue, be sure and use a microtex needle and use directional stitching but that will only account for puckering at the line of stitching, not for a difference in size.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: sewewesful
Date: 07-26-2006, 08:40 PM (10 of 13)
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The fabric didn't pucker along the seam lines, it acts more like the overlay is drawing it in. I did cut the practice piece I've been working on a little larger than the overlay pattern. I haven't had a chance to sew it to the bodice piece yet; but I am wondering if the same thing will happen when I do. I do like the idea of cutting it on the bias but I won't be able to try that until the weekend. Do you think the gathers will lay a little flatter then? Thanks for all the suggestions. sewewesful |
User: sewewesful
Member since: 07-08-2006 Total posts: 9 |
From: sewewesful
Date: 08-07-2006, 01:08 PM (11 of 13)
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Hi, I finally had a chance to work on this project this week end. I cut an overlay piece on the bias and used my ruffler attachment to pleat/gather the sides, then I pinned it to the bodice piece. The "folds" lay much nicer and it doesn't seem to "draw in" the satin. I had to use a combination of very small pleats and then pull up the thread a little, but it doesn't matter as long as it looks nice - right? I've just done the side front; Hope to work more on it this afternoon. I haven't heard of the microtex needles. Why should I use them? Hope Jo-Ann's stocks them. sewewesful |
User: sewewesful
Member since: 07-08-2006 Total posts: 9 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-07-2006, 01:13 PM (12 of 13)
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They do not cause fine fabrics to snag like sometimes happens if you hit the fabric right on the fiber in fine fabrics.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: sewewesful
Date: 10-07-2006, 09:48 AM (13 of 13)
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I think I have solve the problem...I re-cut the overlay pieces on the bias an use my ruffler to evenly pleat. The pieces nee e a little extra gathering to fit, so I pulle the threa to gather. The fullness is much softer, looks better an that seeme to release the bo ice so it fit. My mo el was much happier, too. I'm going to buil in a cushion an make a little extra seam allowance on the back pieces. Moving on now to completely finish the ress an get rea y for the next bri esmai fitting. Sorry about the missing letter. It won't work this morning! Thanks for everyone's sugggestions. |
User: sewewesful
Member since: 07-08-2006 Total posts: 9 |
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