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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: sewewesful
Date: 07-22-2006, 05:08 PM (1 of 7)
I posted my problem on the construction forum but thought some of you more experienced in special occasion sewing might be able to help, too.

I am sewing Simplicity 5238 with coordinating satin, sheer organza and lining. I gathered the sheer pieces to attach to the satin pieces of the bodice and noticed the fabric rippled as though the sheer was pulling in the satin. I went on with the construction to be ready for the fitting except for the zipper- and when the maid of honor put on the dress, the back was 1-1 1/2 inches too small tapering to the waist. The shell I made fit perfectly- I even added 1/4 inch to the back seam to give myself extra for the zipper.

The organza is quite poofy going across the bust- might be fine the the slighter girls, but no so good for the larger girls. I am trying my ruffler attachment to see if that makes better gathers, but I still don't understand the not fitting problem.

Can anyone offer any suggestions? Thanks so much!

P.S. I really enjoy reading this forum. I actually bustled a gown a couple years ago from this site.

sewewesful
User: sewewesful
Member since: 07-08-2006
Total posts: 9
From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 08-02-2006, 09:35 PM (2 of 7)
Wow...kinda surprised no one answered you on this! I've been away for awhile - summer stress of remodeling gets you every time... :)

Sounds like there was some pulling as you gathered the sheer to the satin, like you mentioned. Without seeing it, that's all I could think of that would make it pull in like that (assuming there's nothing there like shrinkage, etc). Looking at the pattern, I wouldn't think that any 'poufing' of the sheer would look too hot, if the satin wasn't following suit.

The pattern looks like horizontal pleats rather than gathering - did it take too much and pull on the center back?

Without being there/seeing it, etc, I'd probably recut (if there was enough material) to avoid damage, but remeasure just to make sure I got it all correct.

Sorry, that didn't help much. I see the post was last week - did you get it figured out?
Kris
User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005
Total posts: 53
From: sewewesful
Date: 08-07-2006, 12:53 PM (3 of 7)
Kris,
Thanks for your comments-I was surprised too, as I thought this would be the correct section, but I did receive comments from the other posting.

This week-end I FINALLY had a chance to try a couple of suggestions and from what I have done so far, cutting the overlay on the bias seems to work okay. The "folds"lay much nicer and it doesn't seem to pull the bodice piece. I have only done the side front; have the front piece to try yet. As if that wasn't enough of a problem--I thought I would use my gathering attachment to make the folds more uniform than the two rows of gathering stiches-- while stiching, the upper arm of the attachment works the screw that holds the needle loose. As you can imagine, I've broken several needles!!!! So I do have to check every few stiches to make sure it is tight.

I followed the pattern directions to a T, but this time they didn't work out so well. As long as it looks pretty much like the picture (AND fits) my customer will be happy.

Hope to work more on it today. Glad to hear from you.

sewewesful
User: sewewesful
Member since: 07-08-2006
Total posts: 9
From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 08-08-2006, 08:01 PM (4 of 7)
Yikes...the gathering attachment on my machine gives me headaches. I don't envy you that!

It sounds like you hopefully figured it out. Isn't it frustrating when you just can't figure out why something isn't laying right? Drives me nuts. :)

Hope it all works -
Kris
User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005
Total posts: 53
From: sewewesful
Date: 10-07-2006, 09:07 AM (5 of 7)
Kris,
I neee to take time to try the suggestions I receive . I first re-cut the overlay pieces on the bias, then use the ruffler to pleat slightly. Then I pulle the threa to make the organza fit the bo ice piece. It looks much softer an fits much better. I've eci e for the rest of the resses, I will leave an extra wi e seam allowance on the back pieces so I can insert the zipper for the final fitting. That way I'll have a little something to work with if nee e .

Having the top problem solve ,...when my mo el trie on the ress, the skirt (cut on the bias) was not even. In a couple places the overlay was shorter than the un er skirt. I took extra time to be sure these were cut right, hung both skirts (for quite a while) before hemming so I thought I coul just turn up an sew. WRONG! So that will be my weeken ! An it's not raining!

Sorry about the missing letter.
User: sewewesful
Member since: 07-08-2006
Total posts: 9
From: DorothyL
Date: 10-07-2006, 10:40 AM (6 of 7)
It appears your computer has run out of Ds.
I once had one run out of Rs.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: AndreaSews
Date: 10-07-2006, 08:21 PM (7 of 7)
Wow, your post was way easier to read once I figured out to add a D whenever it didn't look right!
Well, if both the satin and the sheer overlay were cut on a bias, it's not impossible to imagine that the two different weight (and different fiber?) fabrics would stretch in different amounts when hung up. Well, you cut the pieces long enough to begin with, and the hanging is just to get the stretch out of its system. I'm sure it looks horrible on the hanger b/c it's uneven right now, but the skirt didn't shrink and become suddenly too short, so breathe easily! The only reliable way I know to measure a hem is to have a fitting and mark it. It should be smooth sailing after that.
Andrea
User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005
Total posts: 1007
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