Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: abcameo
Date: 07-23-2006, 02:36 PM (1 of 13)
|
I've got a gauzy-type fabric with a plain and a satin stripe. I don't if there's a name for this technique, but I'd like to stitch in pleats in a way that would hold the shiny satin stripe facing outward, and the gauze stripe on the inside, but billowing open when you move. I'm going to pleat the fabric first then cut out my pattern (so that I'm sure I end up with the proper width of fabric). I don't own a pleater gadget, but I have a trusty iron and a metal hemming guide that I thought I'd use that as a straight edge for ironing the pleats down prior to stitching in place. My questions: 1. Is there an official name for this look? 2. Is there a "best way" to stitch the top to manage the pleats as I sew? 3. Should I take a stitch somewhere on the inside gauze part of each pleat to help it sit properly? I'm thinking maybe pintuck down the center on the WS of each plain gauze fabric section? 4. What should I do about hemming the bottom? a. If I go with a typical turned up hem, should I hem it before I pleat or after I'm done creating the garment--how do I handle the now gently-folded hemline? b. I'm also thinking of leaving the bottom with a small frayed edge--it would look appropriate with my design. The satin won't fray, though, but the gauze will. Can someone recommend how to edge the hem using my serger that would look attractive for both types of pleat? I'm working on this project today, so I'd really appreciate a quick reply before I either try doing it myself (and risk a botched job) or I run out of steam (it's going up to the 100's here again today). Many thanks, Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: abcameo
Date: 07-23-2006, 03:34 PM (2 of 13)
I posted this also on the Taunton "Threads" forum and just got back a helpful reply. She mentions that it would be wise to baste the pleats to hold down the bottom section so that the fabric is in place when I'm cutting out the pattern. That's a good point. All I was thinking of was how to manage the pleated top portion. I didn't really give much thought to how to cut down the sides and bottom of the pattern except to place the pattern and just cut. Just the type of issue that gets me into trouble no matter how hard I try to visualize and plan everything out ahead of time...  She also suggested a rolled hem, which would be a good choice, but I'm also considering a satin edge stitch in shiny embroidery thread that would match the sheen of the satin stripes... Oh, Whoopeee--the official name of this technique just popped in my head--"Shadow Pleats." Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-23-2006, 04:47 PM (3 of 13)
|
Can we see when you finish? I think I'd do the hem first if you are sure length isn't an issue. I like the idea of a satin stitch. I also wouldn't be afraid of a small test piece, and lots of basting -- even by hand. Sounds beautiful. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: abcameo
Date: 07-24-2006, 03:02 PM (4 of 13)
|
Hi, Dorothy and everyone else who mentally plugging away with me on my project. Coffee chat  I know I'm making this hard because I'm positive the same pattern exists everywhere, but I had the fabric and just decided to creat this thing on my own.Okay--more changes with the top. I was being cautious and decided to cut the hemline at about 25" instead of 17 just in case... As I was holding it up showing it to my sig. other this a.m., and he commented it was very sheer. It was the first time I held it up against the light of the window. This made me realize 2 things. First, it looks nice as a dress or tunic top. Second, oh oh--it needs a lining if I'm not using it was a top. So now, I've attached the pleated section on one side to the bodice, and I'm getting ready to add the other side. The seam is serged. Can I add a lining to that serged (finished) edge by sewing it on the machine at this point, or will that bulk up the seam too much? I used my serger gathering attachment, and it worked quite well. I think the effect of shadlow pleats is holding fairly well after gathering, but not quite as distictinctly as I had hoped before I attached that section to the bodice. It maybe bulked up a tiny bit in one section, and the rest came out so well, I hate to undo that. Not sure what I'm going to do. Maybe just rip about 3" and re-stitch. Rats, had hoped it would be perfect the first time for a big change... I was also thinking of now taking in the waistline if it turns into a dress, but decided against it bec. that would probably mean adding a zipper--and that's always risky for me. So I'm going to either add a matching ribbon or make a narrow belt with the leftover fabric. I'm getting quite intrigued with the shadow pleat thing and think I'll buy some more fabric and try a few more techniques with it. I don't know how to upload a photo to this forum. It will probably go up for sale on my website, though, once it's done and I can send a link. Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-24-2006, 04:01 PM (5 of 13)
|
If you have a waist band you should be able to add the lining there and grade your seam allowances with the longest layer against the outside layer of the band. To avoid some of the bulk serge the edge of the waste band that will be inside and stitch in the ditch to sew it down. Don't turn it under. Don't finish the top of the lining or the skirt -- it will be encased in the waste band. I like the lining to hang free (usually) but you can anchor it to the seam at the bottom by making a chain on the serger and attaching it to the hem of the lining and the seam allowance of the skirt. Would a slip take care of the problem? Personally I think lining would look better if possible. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: abcameo
Date: 07-25-2006, 10:26 PM (6 of 13)
|
It's been so unbearably hot here, and our air conditioner isn't up to par, so I'm trying to sew and knit in the morning, but by mid-afternoon, it's hard not to feel like a slug. I wasn't happy with the way the gathers on the dress/tunic glitched up a little tighter in one area when I attached the bodice to the main section, so I took out the stitching this morning. In doing so, I accidentally also removed the stitching I'd put in to hold each pleat in place, so I had to redo them. What I did this time around is straight stitch the WS/gauze section of each pleat for about 2" from where the bottom will attach to the bodice. I then gathered that bottom section using the serger and machine basted it on to the bodice. I took a look, and then went ahead and serged the seam so that it would be neat and automatically edged. It came out great. Dorothy, should I have held off attaching the skirt to the bodice without the lining attached? I was so eager to see how it would work out, I just ploughed ahead and sewed it even as I was thinking maybe I should be sewing all three layers together at the same time. I still haven't even bought lining material yet thinking I may have some matching leftovers, just have to dig in my fabric box. There's no waistband--it's empire style--but I'm going to include a ribbon or self-fabric tie-on belt. So now that I have a serged edge where the bodice meets the skirt portion, would someone please advise how should I proceed with sewing on the lining? Do I press the serged seam downward and sew this edge to the RS of the lining so that the lining then folds over downward? Should I then stitch in the ditch (from the front RS of the dress) catching all layers to keep it facing downward? Is there a better way to handle it? I will leave the lining hanging free. Further advice appreciated on the next step--how to attach the lining. Many thanks, Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-26-2006, 08:37 AM (7 of 13)
|
Well, I'd have put the lining on the same time as the bottom and let them hang together from the seam. How much seam allowance do you have there -- please say you haven't trimmed or finished that seam -- can you attach the lining to the seam allowance and, like you said, stitch it down again by either stitching in the ditch or top stitching it down with regular thread just a bit below the seam. That might interfere with the pleats though. You realize I may be picturing something in my head that is totally different than what you are actually doing. Is there a photo or a pattern similar to your top that would help me envision it. The pleating part I get (sort of). I hope you are writing down what you are doing as you go along so you can recreate this later. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: abcameo
Date: 07-26-2006, 12:13 PM (8 of 13)
I should just start a blog, huh?  No--of course I trimmed the seam when I serged it, and I didn't add the lining, so there's just the tiny edge to now attach a lining.  However, I have a full-size facing of the bodice to hand stitch down the hem of it to hide the seam from view. Oh gosh, I didn't think that I'd need a full seam allowance to attach the lining. I was thinking I'd just stitch it on the very edge. Geez, now you know why I need a mentor nearby--before I do something rash. I always thinking I'm thinking well ahead but, I'm just not experienced enough to realize my pitfalls along the way. I can take a photo of the RS and WS so far and e-mail it to you if you'd like... Do you think there's hope for me adding the lining on the very edge of the seam now? Is it insane to think I can machine stitch the lining onto the super narrow/already serged edge? Here's another (probably crazy!) thought. I could attach the lining to the hem of the bodice facing by machine and then hand stitch (or stitch in the ditch) when I tack down this facing to the front bodice section. Funny, I was thinking I should write it all down just seconds before I clicked over to this message. Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-26-2006, 12:34 PM (9 of 13)
|
Great -- That facing saves the day!! I'd try to stitch the lining to the tiny seam allowance you have. But give yourself plenty of allowance on the lining. I'd baste, either pin or hand stitch, the seam about 1/2 inch from the edge of the lining, then trim the lining later. That will give you a nice comfort zone to work with. Be sure you give yourself as much wearing ease (room to move) as possible with the lining. Will the facing be turned under then hand stitched at the seam? That sounds like it will work just fine. And please, please tell me you have been fitting as you go along. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: abcameo
Date: 07-26-2006, 01:30 PM (10 of 13)
Dorothy--Is today your birthday??  I'm going to buy the lining today and do what you suggest. I guess there's no chance in the world you live anywhere near Roseville, CA?  I figured out a way to share the photos. Here's the link to my Yahoo album: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/abcameo/album?.dir=/4a3ascd&.src=ph The garment isn't for me, so no need to worry about fitting, it's generic. It'll go up for sale on my website and any craft fairs I do. If I work up the nerve next week, I'm going pursue getting my knits/sewn garments, jewelry and fashion accessories in a local upscale boutique that recently opened. I have to say that gathering the fabric, even after stitching the pleats in place, slightly threw off the shadow pleating--although I haven't re-pressed it yet. In my next attempt, I'll have to try to figure out a solution to that issue. Amy |
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-26-2006, 02:52 PM (11 of 13)
|
No, it is not my birthday! I don't need any extra. No, I do not live anywhere near Roseville California. I live in upstate New York. I grew up in Fairfield California, not too far from you and we would go to concerts at a skating rink (I think it was a skating rink) in Roseville. I saw the Hollies there. And I saw the Yardbirds there. God, that dates me. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-26-2006, 02:56 PM (12 of 13)
|
I just looked at the photos. Very nice. Next time maybe you could just pleat it and forget the gathers. Or gather it and forget the pleats. I think for a young woman, if the top part is completely faced, you don't need to line it. They show a lot of skin now days anyway. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: abcameo
Date: 07-26-2006, 03:39 PM (13 of 13)
|
If the thing was remaining a top, I'd forget about lining it, but I'm keeping it long, and it's just too sheer as a dress. I wouldn't want to feel responsible if someone left home without a slip underneath the thing. Next time, I agree--just pleats or gathers. Well, it's all a learning experience and, as an intermediate sewer only, I've learned quite a bit as I went along refining each step. Well, I'm originally from NYC, and I'm right there with you because I saw people like Jimmy Hendrix, The Doors, Jefferson Airplane, Cream (yes--before Eric Clapton became a legend) & Rod Stewart the first time he came to the US with the Jeff Beck group at the Fillmore East. I even had my friends believing Jeff Beck was related to me (Amy Beck!)--ha! 
|
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004 Total posts: 131 |
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-19703.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft