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From: Lynnie
Date: 07-24-2006, 03:58 PM (1 of 6)
I’m hoping you guys can give me some ideas on how to go about figuring out what alterations I need to make to get standard shirt patterns to actually fit me. (Until I started sewing, I never realized I was so oddly shaped.  ) I’m especially interested in how to determine when and how much to alter for the following: broad back, rounded high back, and forward shoulders.I got “Fitting Finesse” by Nancy Zieman and “Fantastic Fit for Every Body” by Gale Grigg Hazen from my library. I like the approach in FF because the alterations seem easy to make and I like that you can make a lot of changes without messing up the armscythe. If found FFEB a little confusing and she seems to focus a lot on plus-sized women. However, she did have one example that had similar problems to me and she did help me recognize my forward pointing shoulders. So, info on me… my front width (from one underarm crease to the other above the bust) is 12 - 12 ˝”. My back width is about 14 ˝”. Bust measurement = 35”. I am just barely a B cup. From the front I have square shoulders (any amount of shoulder padding makes me look like a linebacker). From the side, I can now see that my shoulders are quite a bit more forward than the standard. (Said as she stops hunching over the keyboard and sits up straighter.  )I almost never buy RTW woven shirts anymore because they always pull across the back. I can’t drive, type, or do much of anything without feeling like I’m cutting off circulation to my arms and/or going to split the shirt seams. If I get a size large enough to let me move, then I look like I’m wearing a tent because of my small bust and narrow front. Woven tank tops/shells usually gape behind the arms and I dislike having v-necks that show off all the way down to my sternum. Nancy Zieman has you fit the front shoulder width and then just widen the back as needed and she tells you exactly how to figure that amount out. The problem I can see with that is you get most of your added width at the underarm. She doesn’t address forward shoulders at all. Is that something I need to worry about? I also wonder if I should be making an adjustment for rounded high back or just leave that alone for now. Gale Grigg Hazen’s book makes adjustments for all three of the things I mentioned at once, but she does it in something like a 12-step process and it’s on a shirt with a complicated yoke.  (I think I lost her after step 1, lay out the pattern pieces.  ) She also gives you no idea on how to determine how much alteration you should make. Thoughts? |
User: Lynnie
Member since: 02-23-2006 Total posts: 44 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 07-24-2006, 05:06 PM (2 of 6)
Lynnie, have you got a sewing/fitting buddy? Having someone else do the fitting helps a whole lot--Once you know the changes you normally need, you can apply them to other patterns, but I think it's best to have someone pin you up while you're not twisting and turning to look in a mirror. I'm not familiar with Nancy Zieman's formula, but I think that draping the fabric across your back is the way to figure out how much fabric it takes to cover your back! With a nice cheap gingham from the remnants section, you can do this, which will help you be sure to keep the grain lined up. You can have your partner mark the center back, top of shoulders and armscye with a marker. Then you can take it off and compare it to the flat pattern. You give a very good example of how the flat pattern method gets us into a bind! I'm sure more people will post with more tips for you. 
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 07-24-2006, 11:37 PM (3 of 6)
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Also, I just happened across this tonight, working out a problem of my own. It seemed like it might address one of your problems--the narrower chest due to the shoulders being positioned more toward the front. Illustrations included. threads article (http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/nmt037_08.asp) Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: HeyJudee
Date: 07-25-2006, 07:31 AM (4 of 6)
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Andrea, I didn't realize that the Threads site had so many fitting articles. Gonna add that to my favourites and some day give a try at sewing myself something. Lynnie, if you click on Fitting, there are other articles that may help you esp. one on Problems Areas: The Back. As you mentioned a rounded back, maybe the Dowager's Hump will give you some help. TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 
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From: Lynnie
Date: 07-25-2006, 03:41 PM (5 of 6)
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Thanks! That's definately given me some ideas to try.
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User: Lynnie
Member since: 02-23-2006 Total posts: 44 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 07-26-2006, 09:20 AM (6 of 6)
I don't have either of those books I have "Fit For Real People". They have you do the back alterations first, one at a time, because one will effect the other. I also have a broad back, always have along with broad shoulders, rounded upper back, forward shoulders - but I'm a C-D cup in the bust. Now I buy my patterns from the upper bust measurement. I generally end up adding 1/2" to the back - it is an L shape alteration in "Fit For Real People" that I found works best for me since I also have sway back. After that then I do a slight rounded back usually only need about 3/8". From there I will check to see if I still need the forward shoulder. According to "Fit For Real People" and I have found true too, often when we do the slight rounded back it will take care of the forward shoulder, just depends on the pattern & how forward are shoulders are. Will that is the start of mine! After that I would move on to my sway back, then move to the front do my Full Bust Adjustment - then Adjust the Torso as I am short waisted even though I am 5' 7" - then check the sleeves. Sleeves are the biceps big enough, do I need more length for my monkey length arms  I better stop! I do this pin fitting with my tracing paper. I use Swedish Tracing Paper as it is more of a cloth so holds up really well to my trying on. I generally then fit more as sew to see how my alterations went on with the real fabric! My idea - once I've tweaked some general patterns I will have my TNT (tried & true) patterns that I know will fit right for quick projects
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246 
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