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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: johnmouse
Date: 07-26-2006, 09:25 AM (1 of 14)
Hi all, again.

Thanks for all your help on my shirt-making. Haven't gotten the Shirt Making book yet, but planning on it.

I've made several items thus far: boxer shorts, robes, night shirt, collared shirt, PJ's, collarless shirt (this one turned out particularly nice and fits well), pair of shorts for yard work (my only 2 remaining pair of shorts are falling apart and are, umm, rather revealing at times [grin]). A lot of playing "frog," as we say in Crochetland ("rip-it! rip-it!). I've come to the conclusion that NASA scientists write these instructions.

Reading through the boards, I noticed an interesting note about double needles. I have one, but only used it once to try it out. Now I know what to do about top-stitching when I need two lines of stitching. I can't get the stitches even using a single needle; it's the second stitch (1/4" from the first) that always gets me.

Now for a few questions. I have to wear a tux a few times in a year. I have a pair of black slacks I currently wear with my tux coat. They're not tux pants, but I could turn them into tux pants by sewing on the side stripes. Sounds easy enough. (Famous last words?) I need to alter the slacks though. Length will be easy enough. I can remove the belt loops (cummerbun will be worn, so will be using suspenders and no one would be able to tell they had belt loops).

The waist, however, is my problem. I need to take the waist in (from 34" down to 32"). I had lost 20 pounds after I had originally bought them (my partner was in the hospital for a month so I wasn't eating properly). How do I go about taking in the waist, or if it's too much trouble should I just buy a pair that fit my waist?

I'd like to make a new tux coat as well. Rather bold of me, considering I'm so new at sewing. The one I have is old, and has a "repaired" moth hole. Got this coat from a theater costume department when I was in a musical (don't worry, they haven't missed it in 10 years). It's single-breasted.

I can't locate any patterns for a men's tux or men's tux coat. (Probably what keeps the tux rental places in business!) Would it be okay to use a pattern for a single-breasted jacket and just adapt it (using the trimming for the collar/lapel and sleeve cuffs)? Needs to be fairly light weight since I'm an organist and choral director and need the freedom of movement. Any pattern recommendations (the simpler, the better)?

Or -- I do have a suit coat in the closet that I can take apart and make a pattern from, adding for 5/8" seam allowances that I can trim. Somehow, this coat, which isn't mine but does fit, made the out of state move. We're not in contact with the previous owner and they haven't asked about it in the past eleven years. Obviously they don't miss it LOL.

Am I biting off more than I can chew, or should I just go for it? I have ample time to work on it, as I don't need it until December, so I could do a little at a time so I don't get stressed-out. What do you experienced sewers think?

John
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006
Total posts: 22
From: pucktricks
Date: 07-26-2006, 09:32 AM (2 of 14)
If you have ample time to work on it, then I'd say go for it. With the caveat of making a muslin (practice coat) first in a less expensive fabric that has a similar give.

I haven't looked, but have you tried the Vogue website? They might have a pattern for tuxedo coats.

Ticia
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 570
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-26-2006, 09:36 AM (3 of 14)
I wonder if it might be easier to start from scratch and alter a pattern rather than mess with the ready to wear. Vogue, Burda and others, I'm sure, have some jackets that could be altered.
Or you might even find a tux if you look through several brands.
Here's a good way to see what's out there.

http://www.sewingpatterns.com/

Good luck and let us know how you do.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: johnmouse
Date: 07-26-2006, 10:18 AM (4 of 14)
Thanks Ticia & Dorothy.

I was thinking of making it from a pattern instead of trying to copy something pre-made. Take me twice as long to try to make a pattern from something existing than it would to do it from scratch.

Vogue has a pattern for jacket & pants with the optional trimming to make a tux.

Probably have to order it online as they seem to only sell through Joann's. Closest one to us is Vestal, outside of Binghamton, but a portion of I-88 collapsed after a huge flood a few weeks ago, so getting there isn't an easy drive as I've heard. We really need a Joann's here!

On the upside, we do have a great fabric store on the other side of town, so I should be able to find the materials, etc. without any problem.

J
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006
Total posts: 22
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-26-2006, 10:39 AM (5 of 14)
Hey John, you're right in the neighborhood.
Patty and I are both just outside Auburn. I'm hoping to move to Syracuse soon.
Where are you?
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: johnmouse
Date: 07-26-2006, 12:05 PM (6 of 14)
Hey John, you're right in the neighborhood.
Patty and I are both just outside Auburn. I'm hoping to move to Syracuse soon.
Where are you?
Dorothy

We're in Oneonta, a couple hours from Syracuse.

John
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006
Total posts: 22
From: AndreaSews
Date: 07-26-2006, 04:48 PM (7 of 14)
Would this do the trick? mens suit pattern (http://www.smartcart.com/1sew/cgi/searchindex.cgi)
Or this? vogue suit (http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V2383=x&TI=20014&page=2)
Andrea
User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005
Total posts: 1007
From: paroper
Date: 07-26-2006, 05:54 PM (8 of 14)
Vogue makes a nice high grade pattern that will not make you feel like scrimped on quality to make it (something you can be proud of).

As for the pants? Most men's pants have an area in the back to adjust and two inches (one on each side) is not too much to take out. Quite often you just open up a seam already there so that you can enlarge the pants and just sew up another 1 inch seam. You just taper the pant down toward the seat. I do not normally remove the extra fabric just in case you need it later.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Mom of Six
Date: 07-26-2006, 06:16 PM (9 of 14)
Pam what do you do about the waistband? I have taken some in & that works because I take a seam in the band but letting them out is another story!
Barb
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!!
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001
Total posts: 1115
From: paroper
Date: 07-26-2006, 07:18 PM (10 of 14)
Men's commercially made slacks are usually made differently than ladies'. Many have a wide back seam that is shaped like a "V" that extends through a split waistband and a seam in the center with the points of the V quite often tacked down. You can take the tacks out of the "v" and take it in more OR you can usually enlarge the pants quite often more than 2 inches by letting the "v" out and it is a simple process because you don't have to remove the waistband to do it. You just let the amount out and then tack the corners down again. Ya gotta wonder why they don't do that to ladies' slacks!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Sparky
Date: 07-27-2006, 08:48 AM (11 of 14)
Wow, John I admire your ambition! How brave of you to attempt a tux!

As for altering pants, men's pants are so easy that they're one of the few alterations I actually am willing to attempt. As Paroper said, men's pants are usually designed to be easily altered, with a seam that runs right through the waistband. There's usually a belt loop over the seam. You'd normally take that off, make your adjustment, and sew the belt loop back on.

But you said it yourself--you'll be wearing a cummerbund and the waist will be covered. You're talking about taking the pants IN, so if there's no seam through your waistband, just make one.

If I were you, though, I'd make new pants to match the new jacket. It seems like black is black, but not all black fabrics match. They may seem to match at home, but when you get them out in the sunlight, or out in different lighting than you have at home, you might be disappointed. And, gosh, if you can make a jacket you can certainly make pants.
Sparky
User: Sparky
Member since: 03-13-2005
Total posts: 94
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-27-2006, 09:02 AM (12 of 14)
And we want pictures of the tux!!
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: johnmouse
Date: 07-27-2006, 09:49 AM (13 of 14)
It's the Vogue pattern I'll be making. Andrea, the first link didn't work for me. :sad:

Sparky, that was my afterthought; black may be black, but there will be a difference in material. So I'll be making both pants and jacket, along with matching tie and cummerbund.

Now for the fun part. :mad: I found black Gabardine material (60") at WalMart. Yay!! I was going to start on the tie and cummerbund yesterday. WM sells the pattern and the material. Do you think they sell the bow tie clip sets and adjusters? Doesn't do me any good to make things if I can't close them!

I did find a place on the web that sells them. I might actually get this project done in the next 5 years LOL Would be nice to have a one-stop-shopping place!

John
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006
Total posts: 22
From: paroper
Date: 07-27-2006, 10:47 AM (14 of 14)
It depends on what type of hook system your cumberbun uses. Some use the plastic latches that slide together and those quite often can be found at Wal Mart. If it uses the figure 8 type or D rings or the wide plastic hooks, maybe, maybe not. Hancocks and Joannes will have them. The tie sets are often on the racks with the buttons...don't ask me why, I haven't figured it out and they will include the hook, eye and slide for the tie for about $1.90...I usually keep several on hand. The other sets are usually with things like buckles, elastic and other types of notions.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
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