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From: dmz
Date: 07-31-2006, 10:58 AM (1 of 19)
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Hello Everyone, I'm new to the forum. I found you b/c I'm stuck and am hoping you will be able to help me. I'm not a seamtress. I learned long ago that this is a skill in which I have no natural ability. So I've taken sewing lessons on and off since the age of 12 and have done poorly in them all. The teachers usually have made the majority of the garments b/c they couldn't explain what I should do orally in a way that my brain would get it. None sat down beside me and actually talked me through anything that was difficult. Also you need an engineering mind to construct a garment and I don't have that either. Thinking inside out, right side out, all at the same time to see the concept through is daunting for me. I see the finished product only. There are times when the instructions have my mind swimming like a math textbook. (Groan). However, I love clothes and want pieces that are usually not in season, or behnd a season or ahead a year or two, or a combination of serveral items so it's nowhere to be seen. So I try again. Like now. I want a cotton blend sleeveless sheath. I have been unable to find any in the length I want which is right at the bottom of my knee. I'm a lady of a certain age now and above the knee looks...well not pretty anymore. Hiedi Klum I'm not. I'm making this pattern. Dress A top row. The flowered print next to the purple dress. 4 pieces and a zipper. How hard could it be....? http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4768.htm The darts are hard! They curve at the breast and I can't get them to lay without puckering or having to fold them. If I do pucker them or fold them one side doesn't end up where it should. It would be too short. They had me slash them about 4 inches, and then pin matching the dots, and solid lines. They run from the bottom of my rib cage up. Curving at the breast and going out to the underarm. Does that make sense? I'm sure there's a name for this type of darting, but I don't know it, sorry. What do I do? How do you make them go together as nicely as a straight seam? This is sewing step 1. Stuck so early...not good. Thank you for time and help. dmz 
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User: dmz
Member since: 07-30-2006 Total posts: 4 |
From: GreenDragonLady
Date: 07-31-2006, 12:19 PM (2 of 19)
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It looks like a princess seam. They are kind of a pain! What I usually do it pin the end and any notches first, then pin in between, easing the extra fabric in. Then I hand-baste the entire seam (or dart, in your case) and take out the pins. When I sew it I put the more curvy part (which has more fabric to ease in) on the bottom. The feed dogs help to ease the extra fabric. I'm sure other people who have sewn for a lot longer than I have will have better tips! This is just what I do. photos.yahoo.com/greendragondesigns
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User: GreenDragonLady
Member since: 07-29-2004 Total posts: 495 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 07-31-2006, 06:52 PM (3 of 19)
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Get a bit of scrap fabric and practice the darts a few times before you try it on the fashion fabric would be my suggestion/ Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: blackie
Date: 08-01-2006, 07:53 PM (4 of 19)
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It looks like a princess seam. They are kind of a pain! What I usually do it pin the end and any notches first, then pin in between, easing the extra fabric in. Then I hand-baste the entire seam (or dart, in your case) and take out the pins. When I sew it I put the more curvy part (which has more fabric to ease in) on the bottom. The feed dogs help to ease the extra fabric. I'm sure other people who have sewn for a lot longer than I have will have better tips! This is just what I do. Jessica's tips are great. Esp. the part about putting the fuller seam on the bottom when you sew. I do recommend hand-basting, but even that takes some time to get good. Develop a method to basting. Sit down at a table with your work before you and baste from right to left. It's a great way to get accurate results and it doesn't take as long as you might fear! see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: MotherInLaw
Date: 08-01-2006, 09:48 PM (5 of 19)
Practice makes perfect........... they are all right. Try it on some fabric scraps first and baste it. Saves a lot of frustration later. If you're not having fun sewing you tend to give up. But don't. I have dyslexia and have problems with catching on like normal people do but It's awesome when I do catch on so keep trying you will perfect it but you won't if you give up. Keep trying. We all do this, I've been sewing for around 35 years and I still have problems with new things I try. Everyone don't see things the same way so don't think because someone tried showing you and you didn't catch on or learn you are the problem. Let us know how you make out when you get past this LITTLE problem.  Hugs Susie
I'm regressing back into my youth, I just have to figure out how I'm going to convience my body to come along with me.
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User: MotherInLaw
Member since: 06-25-2005 Total posts: 1118 
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From: Skye
Date: 08-02-2006, 05:39 AM (6 of 19)
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as the others say practice makes perfect. I think that Kwik Sew patterns have really good clear, easy to follow pattern instructions.Perhaps get a book from your local libray eg Sewing for Dummies or similar Dont be hard on yourself I know that I have made a few wadders in my time while I have been "practicing"  This site might be useful for sewing techniquessewing stuff (http://www.sewing.org/) |
User: Skye
Member since: 09-28-2000 Total posts: 233 |
From: Patty22
Date: 08-02-2006, 07:56 AM (7 of 19)
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This isn't just sewing a dart, it is easing. It is slightest bit of gather without any gathers.......like the top of a sleeve in a well tailored suit where there are no puckers. On the pattern, does one line of the dart say to ease? If it does you can try this method on a sample: - transfer your marks - on the side that needs to ease, run a line of basting stitches 1/4 inch on the inside of the dart (the part of the dart that will be facing inside the garment) - pin all the points that need to match - gently pull the basting thread to every so slightly ease the one side of the dart to match the other and pin generously - when sewing, sew with the basted side down (the feed dogs of your machine will also ease your fabric. Another factor on why it is difficult to ease the seams together is because one is a slight convex curve and the other is concave. HOWEVER, take your time and you will find that when finished they fit the body beautifully rather than straight darts. Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 08-02-2006, 11:34 AM (8 of 19)
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If you have 2 cut edges you are trying to sew together and 1 is convex and 1 concave, then the easy way is to clip the inside curve, but be careful how far you clip it.. I thought all pattern instructions still told you to use this method.. Am I behind the times again.?. What happens to make people drop the best methods of contruction.?? I have made princess style dresses and blouses for years because they flatter short , fat people like me.. That method still works best for all those seams and I never have a problem with them..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: dmz
Date: 08-02-2006, 03:30 PM (9 of 19)
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Hi Everyone, I've been working on the first dart. You all gave me great tips. Patty, it doesn't say anything about easing. It says," 1. Slash along solid line to triangle. 2. Fold dart, right sides together, matching circles and solid lines. Baste. Stitch along solid lines. 3. Trim dart to 3/8 inch from stitching slash fold of dart to within 1 inch from point. Press dart open and point flat. That's it. Sounds so easy doesn't it. The cotton has a bit of stretch so I'm pulling the piece on the bottom while easing in the top piece where all the fullness is. I keep getting a little pucker right at the center of the curve. Everywhere else it looks good. At this rate I'll be running back to the fabric store for more thread! I've pulled it out 3 times already. I haven't tried the basting bit though. I thought I'd get it with the pulling b/c it does lay pretty good when I pull one side the full side lays real nice...until I get it under the needle. If I just had one more hand I could pull, guide, and operate the machine et voila fini! Clipping is scary! I don't have much allowance around the curve for some reason. It looked like a huge seam allowance before they had me slash it. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll give the basting a try and let you know how it comes out. Deborah |
User: dmz
Member since: 07-30-2006 Total posts: 4 |
From: Patty22
Date: 08-02-2006, 03:45 PM (10 of 19)
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Deborah, if you're really nervous about clipping into your fabric, you could always run a line of stitching inside the markings of where you will be stitching your dart. This extra line of stitching will help stablize your fabric when you clip. Be careful when tugging on your fabric. You don't want to pull it so much that it creates the pucker because that pucker won't be able to be ironed out (so to speak). Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-02-2006, 04:31 PM (11 of 19)
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Patty's line of stitching might help with the stretch and puckering too. Also you might want to hit that pucker with a shot of steam and the iron and see if that takes it out. Steam is great to get rid of puckers caused by easing. If you have a ham you could try shaping the curve when you steam and iron it. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: dmz
Date: 08-02-2006, 07:29 PM (12 of 19)
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I just finished my second dart on the front of the dress. I used several of your techniques to get this far. I clipped the inside curve just a tiny bit and it helped so much. Thank you!  I'm going to have a pot of tea then tackle the back two darts this evening. I have a new fear. Where the curves come to a point (sort of) they are now higher than my breasts! They weren't before I made them. To have them fall where my breast is fullest I have to pull the dress down several inches. Am Im just being paranoid? There isn't enough fabric to go around my shoulder doing that. I bought the pattern to fit my measurements not my pret a porter size. Let me tell you that was like sticker shock! I'm afraid after spending $$$ on the supplies, all the time, frustration, and learning curve it's not going to fit me! Is that normal? Deborah |
User: dmz
Member since: 07-30-2006 Total posts: 4 |
From: Patty22
Date: 08-02-2006, 08:59 PM (13 of 19)
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No, you're not being paranoid. Besides using your measurements to buy the pattern, you really need to check the length of your neck to waist (especially with the style pattern you have choosen to see if you are long or short waisted) and taking into consideration cup size as well as where your breasts are at the fullest point (how far down from your shoulders). Getting the right pattern size is the first step, but then the pattern needs to be altered for your individual body type. We are all unique and few of us can wear a pattern straight from the envelope. Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: Nina Christen
Date: 08-03-2006, 04:25 PM (14 of 19)
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When making a new pattern it is a good idea to make a trial dress with less costly fabric. Then when you have the pattern fitted the way you want, make your final garment. Remember to make notes as to what alterations you made to the pattern for the trial dress/garment. I used to be under the assumption you bought a pattern according to your measurements and it would automatically fit. It sure does not work that way, each of us have our own unique form we must fit the pattern to. Good luck with your project. Nina Gmanina
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User: Nina Christen
Member since: 05-02-2003 Total posts: 36 
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From: Skye
Date: 08-03-2006, 04:51 PM (15 of 19)
Fitting argh....! tell me about it.The bust on the big four pattern companies is for a B cup so if you are bigger than a B cup a full bust alteration is often called for. One of the reasons I like Burda is that they seem to cut for a C cup so no fiddling for me the hips now that is another matter  I have just read Nancy Z..(cant remember her last name and I am not near my book) Fitting Finness it is a simple book Pati Palmer Fitting for Real people is worth a look too as is Sandra Betzena's Fast Fit - easier than Fit for real people IMHO Hope I haven't muddied the waters for you but why I sew is to get a better fit the RTW |
User: Skye
Member since: 09-28-2000 Total posts: 233 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 08-07-2006, 05:55 PM (16 of 19)
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The stitching for any dart is supposed to end about 1 inch below or before the fullest part of your bust.. If it does not, then you have to make alterations, so that it does... I am older , so I always have to check that feature on a new pattern, because you know what gravity does, (specially as we get older)...
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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From: Sparky
Date: 08-08-2006, 12:00 PM (17 of 19)
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One more point ... Be sure you're trying the garment on with the bra you'll be wearing with it. It sounds obvious but it can make a real difference. If you were wearing your old comfy "just around the house" bra, try it with your good bra before you panic.
Sparky
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User: Sparky
Member since: 03-13-2005 Total posts: 94 |
From: dmz
Date: 08-12-2006, 06:24 PM (18 of 19)
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Hi Everyone, I finished the dress last night. It came out better than I thought it would. There are things that I would like to change if I make another one. Examples: I'd buy more fabric b/c the dress was shorter than I wanted, so I added more length but that made my hem little. To get around that I used bias tape. The High Bust area of the dress is too big for me, as well as the scoop neck front and back. I need to make these areas smaller but don't know how. The bust could be a wee bit bigger. It feels just a bit snug but certainly not uncomfortable. I have to tell you I get a little thrill of joy when ever I zip the zipper on this dress b/c it works! I'm like a little kid about it. All giggly and a huge grin on my face. It's silly but...there it is. It took me awhile to get the understitching figured out on the interfacing, but one I got it, it went smoothly. Thank you all for helping me get through it. You are great people! I tried to add a picture of it but my file is just a tad too large. If I can figure out how to shrink it by .03 I'll post it for you to see. Thanks again, Deborah |
User: dmz
Member since: 07-30-2006 Total posts: 4 |
From: blackie
Date: 08-12-2006, 08:55 PM (19 of 19)
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Post some pictures and maybe we can give you some fitting advice (if you still want it). Good job, girl! It feels great to persevere! see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
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