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From: johnmouse
Date: 08-01-2006, 08:41 AM (1 of 19)
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Starting a new project and have a couple of questions. The pattern is Simplicity 9469 (Shirts, slacks, shorts, ties). I'll be making slacks. General pattern question: On quick marking, instructions suggest I snip fabric to mark notches, ends of fold lines, & center lines. Easy enough. They go on to say "pin mark dots." This seems like it should be fairly easy, but how do I keep all the pins from moving and falling off, and identify the difference between small and large dots? I've gotten into the habit of reading the instructions several times and making notes to clarify things before I start. At instruction 27-28, we're dealing with the waist band. At this point, it is stitched to the pants and seams/corners are trimmed Wrong side is showing (it's not turned yet). Instruction 28 is confusing: "Turn ends RIGHT side out; press. on INSIDE, pin pressed edge of bands over seam, placing pins on OUTSIDE. Pressed edge extends 1/4" (6mm) below seam." Ummm, if I'm pinning on the inside, how am I placing pins on the outside? Do they want me to turn the pressed edge (I'm assuming this is the top) 1/4" below the seam to the inside by pinning on the outside? Is the pressed edge 1/4" below the stitch line of the seam on the inside? Should I buy another bottle of gin at this point? Next question should be easy to answer. I'm supposed to "...stitch in the ditch or groove of the waistband seam catching in pressed edge of band on INSIDE..." How do I "stitch in the ditch?" I don't have a walking foot, though I can order one for my machine. I do have an adjustable quilting foot (outside edge adjusts with thumb screw). John |
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006 Total posts: 22 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 08-01-2006, 09:14 AM (2 of 19)
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Starting a new project and have a couple of questions. The pattern is Simplicity 9469 (Shirts, slacks, shorts, ties). I'll be making slacks. General pattern question: On quick marking, instructions suggest I snip fabric to mark notches, ends of fold lines, & center lines. Easy enough. They go on to say "pin mark dots." This seems like it should be fairly easy, but how do I keep all the pins from moving and falling off, and identify the difference between small and large dots? Well I really don't know anyone that uses pins to mark the dots  but there maybe someone. In school we used thread, and made tacks for these dots. Now I cheat allot more, I use chalk, which means you may have to filp you patterns & pieces around a little to get all the dots, where you need them. But I find the chalk stays while I am sewing, comes out easy when I'm done, I have it in lots of colors for different fabric colors.I've gotten into the habit of reading the instructions several times and making notes to clarify things before I start. At instruction 27-28, we're dealing with the waist band. At this point, it is stitched to the pants and seams/corners are trimmed Wrong side is showing (it's not turned yet). Instruction 28 is confusing: "Turn ends RIGHT side out; press. on INSIDE, pin pressed edge of bands over seam, placing pins on OUTSIDE. Pressed edge extends 1/4" (6mm) below seam." Ummm, if I'm pinning on the inside, how am I placing pins on the outside? Do they want me to turn the pressed edge (I'm assuming this is the top) 1/4" below the seam to the inside by pinning on the outside? Is the pressed edge 1/4" below the stitch line of the seam on the inside? Should I buy another bottle of gin at this point? The reading sounds confusing but you they really aren't having you pin to the inside - they say to place the pins on the outside. But they want you to make sure you press the edge of the waistband on the inside down over the seam edge of the waist. When you do pin from the outside, make sure you are catching the fabric on the inside that you have pressed covering the waist edge. The idea is that when you stitch in the ditch on the front of the pants you are also catching & stitching the inside of the waist too, finishing off the waistband. Some will fold up a 1/4" or so on the edge of the inside edge of the waistband to make the inside of the pants look very clean. Others will only serge & not fold up, as some feel that nobody but you will be really looking at the inside of your pants. Does all that makes sense? Gin - I prefer Tequila!  Next question should be easy to answer. I'm supposed to "...stitch in the ditch or groove of the waistband seam catching in pressed edge of band on INSIDE..." How do I "stitch in the ditch?" I don't have a walking foot, though I can order one for my machine. I do have an adjustable quilting foot (outside edge adjusts with thumb screw). John I don't have a walking foot either, one might be easier, but I just don't, although I've made quite a few pants and/or items I have to stitch in the ditch. I think part might be what you are comfortable with, what you learn to use. I find I can use my large foot, is actually a large metal zig-zag foot, to stitch in the ditch just fine. I don't watch the needle, I find a spot on my foot to line up with the spot on my fabric that will keep me pretty much in the ditch. It is when I watch the needle on anything that will through me off, if I keep my eye on a line on the machine and/or foot I do much better. Well that is my 2 cents on your pants! I'm sure someone else will give you more advice.
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 08-01-2006, 09:24 AM (3 of 19)
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John -- First, rather than snipping and pin marking I'd get chalk or water erasable markers and mark in the seam allowance. You can get air erasable markers too if you are going to use the marks immediately. Otherwise, if you make all the marks when you remove the pattern, they may be gone when you get to that part of the construction process. Or you can do tailor tacks -- just a bit of contrasting thread stitched down by hand -- don't knot it -- just take two or three tiny stitches in the same spot and leave little tails. Now your waist band. You press under the edge you do not attach to the front. Sew the other edge to the pants, right sides together. When you turn it the edge that is folded under should cover the seam allowance (which you have pressed toward the band). What you want to do now is pin that just barely over the seam allowance -- all the way down so it covers the stitching, but barely. You want the pins on the outside because that is where you will sew it down in order to see how straight you are sewing. I put the pins through the pant and the folded edge just below the seam -- like 1/16 of an inch or less. That way I know the folded edge is below the seam all the way. Stitch in the ditch means stitch right over the seam -- in the ditch made by the seam. Now your waste band is stitched down. If you are not comfortable with pinning it down, HAND BASTE!! It takes time, but no more time than having to take out your stitching because the waste band wasn't pinned straight, Now -- buy that bottle gin and drink it AFTER the waste band is attached! You've earned it. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-01-2006, 09:31 AM (4 of 19)
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Oh, and John, before you encase the seam allowance on the waste band, grade your seam. That means trim the two (or sometimes more) layers in the seam so they are different widths with the widest against the outside of the garment. It really makes a difference in how it looks when it is finished. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-01-2006, 10:14 AM (5 of 19)
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If you stitch in the ditch your stitching is hidden by the "crack". Most presser feet have a mark directly in front of the needle. That becomes your guide for your seam. Just place it on top of the crack in the seam. After years of sewing I usually just either clip at the dots such at the side where the pockets might be sewn or at the top where they might lap or I use tracing paper and put an "x" on the dot on the wrong side (what I would do at the bottom of your slacks' zipper.)
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-01-2006, 10:17 AM (6 of 19)
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As one who almost always uses a walking foot, I agree you don't need one for this. Unless you are making slippery pants, that is. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Mom of Six
Date: 08-01-2006, 12:01 PM (7 of 19)
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I don't clip my notches I try to cut them out. I make single or double triangle cuts on the outside of the cutting line. I also cut 1 at the shoulder seam of sleeves. i find this easier to match than slits & if I need to make a smaller seam allowance I still can.
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!! |
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001 Total posts: 1115 
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From: paroper
Date: 08-01-2006, 12:05 PM (8 of 19)
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I almost always clip notches too...the exception is if I lay the pattern pieces too close together (rarely). The notches are extremely important. The number of notches and location not only help you match the pattern but on many pattern pieces it also tells you where the pattern piece will be located...as in one notch in the sleeve (front), two notches (back).
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: swartzrn
Date: 08-01-2006, 02:05 PM (9 of 19)
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In regards to marking, I have been using a water soluble marker on my quilting. It seems to come out very well. I even used a purple marker on cream fabric and there is now NO evidence it was ever there. I have used chalk when sewing garmets and that worked well for me too.
Julie
"To see the future, look into a child's eyes." |
User: swartzrn
Member since: 02-17-2006 Total posts: 436 
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From: paroper
Date: 08-01-2006, 03:05 PM (10 of 19)
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A lot of fabrics used in suits are not washable. If you make marks on the right side I would use chalk as do most tailors. Tailors also (surprise) use tailors' tacks. Air erase markers would probably be ok on the wrong side. Sometimes you get a marker/fabric that are not good together and the air markers don't even come out.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: johnmouse
Date: 08-02-2006, 07:13 AM (11 of 19)
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Thanks all. Great suggestions. One of the problems (?) I've come across is in marking. While the instructions say to mark the wrong side, some pieces are put together then they want you to match dots or follow a stitching line for another step (shirt collars or flies for example). Of course, your dots and lines are now hidden on the underside. I end up digging out the pattern piece, matching it up, then use the tracing paper technique. What a pain! I'm not sure I still understand fully about grading seams. Simple explainations please. I'm a man LOL John |
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006 Total posts: 22 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-02-2006, 07:50 AM (12 of 19)
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You grade a seam allowance when the seam allowance is pressed in one direction -- and usually enclosed. You trim them in graduating widths so you don't have a big clump or ridge along the seam. If you cut the one that will be closest to your skin shortest and then the next in the stack a little longer and the next still longer you will have the longest one nearest the outside of the garment to help cover the bulk of the seam. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: johnmouse
Date: 08-02-2006, 07:57 AM (13 of 19)
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Ahhh! Thank you for clarifying that, Dorothy. Makes sense now! John |
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006 Total posts: 22 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 08-06-2006, 07:49 PM (14 of 19)
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Hey John, as far as marking, I've learned to mark the dots on different sides, a bit more work, but for marks I need on the outside (like pocket placements) I mark on the outside (rightside), and for darts or zipper ending points, I mark on the wrong side.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: johnmouse
Date: 08-07-2006, 08:31 AM (15 of 19)
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Yep Laura. I'm making slacks right now, so I went through the instructions and wrote where to transfer markings (right/wrong side) on the pattern itself. That way when I use it again, I'll know ahead of time. John |
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006 Total posts: 22 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-07-2006, 08:37 AM (16 of 19)
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I haven't seen one of these for years and I don't know if they still make one, although it is possible you might be able to fashion something. They used to make a long metal thing that looked like a cross between a stapler and a hole punch but it didn't punch holes. When you pushed the rods together it made a couple of round marks. People would put their tracing paper under the rods and it would mark the garment. I don't know if you could maybe do that with a couple pieces of dowel rod or not.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: johnmouse
Date: 08-07-2006, 08:53 AM (17 of 19)
| I use tracing paper and the outside rounded end of my stitch ripper to transfer. I can trace the dots without poking holes in the fabric. |
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006 Total posts: 22 |
From: Sparky
Date: 08-07-2006, 02:57 PM (18 of 19)
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Sometimes I do use a pin when marking dots with an air-erasable marker. Especially if the dots are not near the edge of the garment, for example, dots that indicate placement for a pocket. I push a pin straight through the middle of the dot, through both layers of fabric (if marking both sides). Then I pull the pattern back and draw a mark around the pin, then flip over and draw a mark around the pin which is sticking out the back. Even if the fabric shifts, the pin will be marking the right spot. Could this be what was meant by "pin marking"? Sparky
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User: Sparky
Member since: 03-13-2005 Total posts: 94 |
From: blackie
Date: 08-07-2006, 04:46 PM (19 of 19)
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I swear by Folkwear's tracing medium (see it here (http://folkwear.com/accessories.html) on their "Accessories" page). It is sturdy, I can iron it, it "sticks" to the fabric so I never have to pin, but it doesn't have that gross tacky feeling some of the other tracing mediums do. I have also used newsprint (my eyes are still good enough I can see fine), tissue paper, or interfacing in a pinch. I use tailor's tacks for markings that aren't in the seam allowance. see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
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