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From: johnmouse
Date: 08-07-2006, 01:24 PM (1 of 13)
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So, here we go again LOL Simplicity #9469, making slacks. Actually was going pretty good, and fast too! A couple of little places to fix, but all-in-all am happy with my progress. Now I've come to a place where I need some 'splaining. I'm attaching (attempting is more like it) the top band to the slacks. "25. With RIGHT sides together, pin pants to band sections, matching centers, placing side seams at small dots. Baste, easing pants to fit. Stitch." For "centers" do they mean the front centers only or front AND back centers? They don't say! Having a huge problem getting things lined up, especially the small dot to side seam. And how does one "ease" pants to fit and line up? Obviously, the top band doesn't line up with everything, so some manipulation must be done. The pattern piece for the back has the word "EASE" on top between the raw edge (where my skinny butt will be) and notch. The center back seam is between. Visualizing it: back raw edge - center back seam - notch - dart - front raw edge John |
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006 Total posts: 22 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-07-2006, 04:14 PM (2 of 13)
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Yes. They are talking about center front AND center bac, then match your side seams and notches and dots. When this mentions EASE it does NOT mean GATHER. You woull use a gathering stitch but your will not have any gathers. Basically your seamline will be flat and the larger portion of the garment will be slightly puffy to take care of the curves of the body that attach. It is hard to explain but I first lightly gather then I use my fingers to stretch it back so that there is a little puffiness to the garment but no puckers on the seamline. If the garment is correctly drafted, cut, and sewn, the seamline itself will exactly fit together with no excess.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-07-2006, 08:04 PM (3 of 13)
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Some times you can kind of stretch the fabric to ease it so it all fits together but DON'T let Pam catch you!!! Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-07-2006, 08:06 PM (4 of 13)
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Dorothy! You Wouldn't!!!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: keljo60
Date: 08-07-2006, 09:35 PM (5 of 13)
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I'm sure she would, and so would I! But, John, you're not supposed to do it that way!
Kelly
Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup! |
User: keljo60
Member since: 07-30-2006 Total posts: 154 
|
From: esrun3
Date: 08-07-2006, 09:43 PM (6 of 13)
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Yes. They are talking about center front AND center bac, then match your side seams and notches and dots. When this mentions EASE it does NOT mean GATHER. You woull use a gathering stitch but your will not have any gathers. Basically your seamline will be flat and the larger portion of the garment will be slightly puffy to take care of the curves of the body that attach. It is hard to explain but I first lightly gather then I use my fingers to stretch it back so that there is a little puffiness to the garment but no puckers on the seamline. If the garment is correctly drafted, cut, and sewn, the seamline itself will exactly fit together with no excess. I do mine the way Pam does hers, I do tend to do that slight gathering above the seam allowance, seems to help smooth out at the seam line then. Hope that makes sense. Lyn
|
User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-07-2006, 09:58 PM (7 of 13)
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It depends on where the larger part of the garment is and where the smaller part of the garment is. In the case of pants it is backwards to jacket sleeves where you have slight ripple above the seamline. It depends on whether you are dealing with concave or convex curves. In pants it is usually below. Shoulders, even bustline in women's princess garments, attaching circular skirts, sometimes hips and elbows on straight jackets are other places where you might see ease like this.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-08-2006, 08:06 AM (8 of 13)
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I find steam and the tailor's ham help with the rippling. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: johnmouse
Date: 08-09-2006, 08:13 AM (9 of 13)
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Thanks! From what I've read on gathering/easing stitches, I'll run two baste lines and ease only from the top (raw edge) line. My assumption in this technique is that the lower stitch keeps the fabric from puckering at the finished seam line. Since the fullest part will be in the rear end, I should do the easing there. John |
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006 Total posts: 22 |
From: JMom
Date: 08-09-2006, 04:03 PM (10 of 13)
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Margaret Islander teaches one to 'ease' by making sure that the LONGER piece is always on the bottom, so the feed dogs help to pull in the excess fabric, and, with the right hand, hold the fabric a little higher than the surface of the sewing machine, while pulling back just a little wee bit, making both fabrics curve up. The left hand guides the fabric through under the needle. This works for me for small amounts of ease. Jennifer |
User: JMom
Member since: 05-25-2006 Total posts: 9 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-09-2006, 04:20 PM (11 of 13)
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A walking foot helps too. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-09-2006, 05:24 PM (12 of 13)
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The patter will explain where to ease. It will probably say to ease between dots.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: johnmouse
Date: 08-14-2006, 01:45 PM (13 of 13)
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sometimes hips and elbows on straight jackets are other places where you might see ease like this. And I may NEED a straight jacket after this LOL Had to take a few days off from it due to other commitments. Going to try some scrap fabrics to see what works. John |
User: johnmouse
Member since: 06-23-2006 Total posts: 22 |
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