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The Sew What’s New Archive

This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: blackie
Date: 08-14-2006, 12:01 AM (1 of 20)
OK, like my post title? Hee hee.

Seriously though - I am very upset. I just made my husband a pair of pants from this Kwik Sew pattern (http://www.kwiksew.com/Patterns/P3258_3277/3267.cfm), which I modified the leg shape (which in turn slightly altered the crotch and backside curves) to be more like a pair he owned which were thrashed. Well, I got everything perfect - the butt feels great, the legs are exactly cut right, and the waistband looks good (thanks to my ladies help on this thread (http://sew-whats-new.com/vb/showthread.php?t=19851)). But he says the crotch feels too snug!

NooooOOOOOooooooooooooo!

I am devastated because the pants are *ENTIRELY* assembled except for belt loops. He suggested I add a diamond-shaped gusset to the crotch (he is a smart feller). Would that work? Any other suggestions?

P.S. Please don't tell me he should have tried them on before I serged seams and put the waistband in! And yes, I will be a good girl in the future and do a few try-ons, which of course ruins the surprise, which is what I was trying to do here!

Also - what is the pattern alteration for more crotch room in slim-legged pants? Because otherwise the pattern I drafted is wonderful and his butt felt great (ha! ha!). Do I just add a half inch or so to the front fly area or ...?

Pants are difficult!
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: bridesmom
Date: 08-14-2006, 01:11 AM (2 of 20)
AMEN to that Blackie. Pants are very difficult! (or is it men?) My DH is impossible to make pants for, he wears them below his belly so he has a very short crotch length and then they are huge in the butt and thigh cause his waist is so big. I hate when he asks for pants. Though I finally got smart and made a muslin which kind of works for him. I'm waiting to hear how everyone else does with this dilemma, for me too!
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004
Total posts: 2026
From: paroper
Date: 08-14-2006, 07:59 AM (3 of 20)
Yes. A gusset in the crotch WILL solve the problem. It is not an uncommon thing to have a gusset there.

http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C-209.pdf

http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C-227.html
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: stephi
Date: 08-14-2006, 08:20 AM (4 of 20)
Ok just cant help myself with this one....You could tell him that its not the cut of the pants its the size of the stuffing you are having to work with :bg:

Yep, there I said it. My husband would be so darn proud of me for that one, LOL.

On a more seriuos note, yes I have actually seen the diamond thing in mens pants. Especially riding pant where they are straddle all of the time. Infact the one company that make the mens riding pant like that was a bit more pricey, if I can think of the name I will search it and see if it might help with a visual.
Stephi

"No body knows what it is that I do until I dont do it"

"if you do what you have always done you will get what you have always gotten"
User: stephi
Member since: 03-17-2006
Total posts: 361
From: blackie
Date: 08-14-2006, 02:12 PM (5 of 20)
Yes. A gusset in the crotch WILL solve the problem. It is not an uncommon thing to have a gusset there.

http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C-209.pdf

http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C-227.html

Pam, thank you for those links. Those are incredibly detailed information on pants-making. Unfortunately there is no indication of how to go about putting in a gusset when you've got a situation like mine. When I can get my hands on him again (he is out with the kids today and giving me a rest day) I will take those measurements and compare them with the pants and do the best I can (if I don't find any better method before then).

Pam, are you affiliated with that school? Those are great notes.

Ok just cant help myself with this one....You could tell him that its not the cut of the pants its the size of the stuffing you are having to work with!

Oh yeah. He is totally proud of the fact the pants don't fit him in this particular way. He'd rather believe he's amazingly endowed, not that his wife is only an intermediate seamstress. :-)

If you do find a picture of those pants I would love to get an idea of how large the gusset should be.

Thank you ladies!
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: paroper
Date: 08-14-2006, 04:08 PM (6 of 20)
You just cut an elongated diamond. Sew it between the seams from one side to the other centering it at the center seams. It is made out of the same fabric as the pants (of course). Be sure and cut it on the straight of grain as it will get stress.

No, I'm not affiliated. Many states have sites like these associated with their agricultural or A&M colleges. I just think this site is exceptional...there are many more sewing "how to's" on the site along with agricultural tips, and a lot of other things...worth looking around some time when you have time. There is information on buying and cleaning machines, all kinds of great things for seamstresses!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Magot
Date: 08-14-2006, 04:42 PM (7 of 20)
Kelly,
I know this is a bit off the wall but here:
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_goresgussets.htm
they have a how to on sewing armhole gussets in renaissance(sp) clothing.
May sound daft but gives you some hints on sewing the darn things in. Also about the fact that even a very small gusset can make a world of difference to the fit so you don't have to make Ralph look like he is hung like a gorilla...
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us
Cells a Speciality
DNA to order.
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002
Total posts: 3626
From: paroper
Date: 08-15-2006, 03:28 AM (8 of 20)
Well, at least this way he can keep his socks in his drawer (ahem....bureau drawer).
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 08-17-2006, 06:45 PM (9 of 20)
Blackie,
Since it is no longer a surprise, why not rip out about 2 inches each way in the critch joining and make a gusset and BASTE it in place and have him try it on before finishing.. Then if its too small or too large you won't have so much ripping to do.. A book I used to have suggested a gusset any time the pants legs were very narrow (don't know if this is why its needed here, or not).. :bg: :bg:
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: Longblades
Date: 08-17-2006, 08:25 PM (10 of 20)
It's hard to tell from the pattern just how closely fitted those pants are but if the fit is meant to be quite snug you may have to make the gusset bigger on one side. A tailor will ask men "which side" they dress on.
User: Longblades
Member since: 07-14-2005
Total posts: 182
From: stephi
Date: 08-18-2006, 08:59 AM (11 of 20)
You cant see the diamond in these but I know that sportsmans nicer pants all have the diamond inthier mens and womens jodphers. Especially the ones designated for jumping because it allows more give when in position. Dont think this pic will help much but here it is. I will keep looking for an under view.

http://www.statelinetack.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444177 1974&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302033542&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302024174&bmUID=1155905687663&itemNo=6&Ntt=mens&In=Horse&previousText=mens&N=156695
Stephi

"No body knows what it is that I do until I dont do it"

"if you do what you have always done you will get what you have always gotten"
User: stephi
Member since: 03-17-2006
Total posts: 361
From: blackie
Date: 08-18-2006, 07:06 PM (12 of 20)
Blackie,
Since it is no longer a surprise, why not rip out about 2 inches each way in the critch joining and make a gusset and BASTE it in place and have him try it on before finishing.. Then if its too small or too large you won't have so much ripping to do.. A book I used to have suggested a gusset any time the pants legs were very narrow (don't know if this is why its needed here, or not).. :bg: :bg:

That is *exactly* what I ended up doing before I read your reply. The gusset ended up being about 3 1/2" square. It's frustrating because he is not good at giving me the report on if they're OK or not. He tried them on, they looked good and he said they felt better. But since he couldn't give me the, "Oh, they're perfect now!" thumbs up, I had him squat down then stand up and I felt around a bit (tee hee) then finally just said, "OK, great." and I'm going to call it good and we'll see how they wear.

I'm going to put some reinforcing stitches in the gusset area. Suggetions on how to do that?

I love the Sew-What's-New forum!!!
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: stephi
Date: 08-21-2006, 09:04 AM (13 of 20)
Brilliant Blackie!! My husband splits the seams on his pant all the time (he refuses to pull them up before sitting down) I have plans to make him a pair of thick docker style pants and to add and inch to the crotch area to try and avoid this ripping problem. He has ripped 5 pairs of pants since christmas!! and I can never find his size (he is 6'6" and 280lbs) so the variety isnt there and theres never his size on sale!!

Glad your diamond worked!! :nah:
Stephi

"No body knows what it is that I do until I dont do it"

"if you do what you have always done you will get what you have always gotten"
User: stephi
Member since: 03-17-2006
Total posts: 361
From: plrlegal
Date: 08-21-2006, 10:53 AM (14 of 20)
Stephi I understand your problem with your DH's pants. My DH is about the same size but we gave up a long time ago trying to buy him off the rack clothes in the local stores. All of his clothes, even his under clothes are ordered through King Size so I've eliminated the problem with the never fitting pants and shirts. I've tried to sew for my DH and finally gave up. First of all, I felt like Omar the tentmaker and second of all, my DH is extremely picky about his clothes.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: blackie
Date: 08-21-2006, 12:26 PM (15 of 20)
First of all, I felt like Omar the tentmaker and second of all, my DH is extremely picky about his clothes.

Hahahaha.... "Omar the tentmaker"!

I'm trying to get my husband to take some good pics today so I can post them. I really persevered to complete those pants!
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: Magot
Date: 08-21-2006, 12:56 PM (16 of 20)
Yeah! We all want to stare at your husbands crotch! :up: Might make the Client of Omar the tentmaker jealous.

I am now never going to think of you as anything else, :wink: Patsy.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us
Cells a Speciality
DNA to order.
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002
Total posts: 3626
From: stephi
Date: 08-22-2006, 08:56 AM (17 of 20)
This king sized store what is the web address for them??? Our big and tall store disapeared one day. And I am just not feeling in the Omar the tent maker mood these days.

Some jobs you can just push right through and others leave you stumped and frusterated huh blackie!!!
Stephi

"No body knows what it is that I do until I dont do it"

"if you do what you have always done you will get what you have always gotten"
User: stephi
Member since: 03-17-2006
Total posts: 361
From: plrlegal
Date: 08-22-2006, 01:03 PM (18 of 20)
Stephi the website is www.kingsizedirect.com

Nah Magot, my kingsize guy knows he's my one and only. :love:

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: stephi
Date: 08-22-2006, 01:44 PM (19 of 20)
I just got on and bought him two pairs of nice pants from the clearance area!!! He will ike the one pair for sure but Im not so sure about the other pair. We will see, but thanks so much!! :re:
Stephi

"No body knows what it is that I do until I dont do it"

"if you do what you have always done you will get what you have always gotten"
User: stephi
Member since: 03-17-2006
Total posts: 361
From: plrlegal
Date: 08-22-2006, 01:51 PM (20 of 20)
Stephi you can always return things to King Size if your dh is not happy with them. We've sent things back and swapped out for different colors, etc. However, the pants do come unhemmed and that is one of the things I dislike doing, is hemming men's pants.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
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