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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: MaryW
Date: 08-30-2006, 10:05 AM (1 of 12)
Has anyone sewn with wool crepe? This crepe is light enough for a blouse or dress and skirt. Should it be lined?
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: Patty22
Date: 08-30-2006, 10:13 AM (2 of 12)
Mary, I have sewn wool crepe, and it was a dressweight fabric; draped beautifully, but was not translucent, so I didn't line. If this were for a blouse, I think lining it might cut down on the draping capability that makes it so beautiful. If it is almost translucent, maybe it would be advised to wear a cami underneath?
Patty
User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006
Total posts: 1194
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-30-2006, 10:25 AM (3 of 12)
I know I couldn't wear it unlined. I would itch all over. I don't break out or turn colors but wool does make me itch.
I made a beautiful top out of a wool/poly blend. The fabric is beautiful and just kinda jumped together the way I wanted it too. Fit is good, embellished with a chain from the serger, made linen pants that go great and, looking good, went out to dinner.
Spent the whole evening scratching. Now I wear it open with a shell top under it.
Just something to think about before you make the dress without lining and find you just can't stand to wear it.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: plrlegal
Date: 08-30-2006, 11:03 AM (4 of 12)
Mary I've also sewn a lot with wool crepe and I've always lined it, especially when used for skirts and pants to prevent the saggy but/saggy knee look and also to prevent itching. I've made a couple of jackets, boxy and fitted but also lined as I thought it would be itchy unlined. I just reread your post, Mary, and if you make a dress or skirt unlined out of wool crepe, when you sit and then stand up, the wool crepe has stretched and leaves a baggy but look. I have a skirt I made and didn't line it until after the first wearing. The butt area had stretched and looked terrible. I then put a lining in it and it has been fine since then.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: MaryW
Date: 08-30-2006, 01:08 PM (5 of 12)
Okay, I am getting the picture. It might itch and it sags. I think I will rethink this idea. Hmmmmm. I love the look of it, rather dressy.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: Patty22
Date: 08-30-2006, 01:28 PM (6 of 12)
Mary, go by the feel of the fabric. The piece I had worked wonderful and was soft to the touch. Mine didn't have a problem with any sagging areas, but then again, the skirt portion of the dress was gored and on the bias.
Patty
User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006
Total posts: 1194
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-30-2006, 01:31 PM (7 of 12)
Why not just line it or underline it?
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: MaryW
Date: 08-30-2006, 01:50 PM (8 of 12)
I'm expecting some swatches of this stuff next week. I will decide from them. I was thinking along the lines of a top and maybe pants.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: plrlegal
Date: 08-30-2006, 02:35 PM (9 of 12)
Mary I have a black wool crepe floor length straight skirt that I made for choir concerts and I used a black silk lining in it and it feels lucsious when you walk in it. You really don't even realize the linining is there and the skirt drapes really nice from the waistband.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: Sancin
Date: 08-30-2006, 04:07 PM (10 of 12)
Mary, I haven't sewn wool crepe for years because I haven't been able to find it but I do have the full skirt of a dress (saved because I love the colour) in my stash that I plan to make into a tunic. I may line the tunic, just to give it some body and hang. I love crepe for dresses that have some fullness and drape. I do not usually line them. I do not itch from wool as I have always worn wool when ever I can find it and I grew up in it. Crepe does have a tendancy to shrink when wet and warm. As I used to perspire a great deal under my arms I alway wore dress shields. I think now that I would simply line the underarm section or as I plan to in the planned tunic in a light weight lining or underlining. I would line pants, if only to give them some body and weight for hanging - crepe is a fine fabric. I have not found that it wrinkles or sags any more than any other fine wool, it usually has a tight weave. The hand is not unlike silk noile.
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005
Total posts: 895
From: kmccrea
Date: 09-08-2006, 07:13 PM (11 of 12)
Hello, Mary!
A good quality wool crepe has less tendancy to sag, check to make sure the weave is close and does not spread apart when you scratch your thumbnail over the body of your swatch or sample. Do not buy it if it has any polyester because it will sag without fail.
A blouse should not need lining. If it is a little too translucent for your taste, wear a camisole which has not effect on drape and will minimize itching if you are prone to do so. Steaming the wool (go to the drycleaner's for this) first will remove any lanolin which is what causes the itch in the first place.
If you do line a pair of pants or a skirt or jacket do not use polyester. Poly traps moisture and after a length of time that rots your beautiful wool garment, it is too stiff for the fluid drape of crepe. Use rayon or silk habitoi. In other words, you've gone to the expense of wool, so don't cheap out on the other stuff you're using to make the garment.
I hope this helps and I'm sure you'll create a beauiful garment.
Katherine McCrea
Designer At Large
User: kmccrea
Member since: 05-07-2006
Total posts: 173
From: Cathie.Tombs
Date: 09-09-2006, 01:50 PM (12 of 12)
So very happy to read these very helpful tips about wool crepe. I adore this fabric, and still fondly remember two dresses I made of it in my teens, one emerald, one violet. I don't often come across this lovely fabric, but Hubby found me a length in cherry that is gorgeous, so these tips will really help. After two semi-failed wool skirts recently, I was discouraged, but lots here will remedy my next tries. Thanks so much!!!!
User: Cathie.Tombs
Member since: 08-27-2006
Total posts: 44
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