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From: bridesmom
Date: 09-07-2006, 08:00 PM (1 of 4)
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I'm making a tweed/boucle jacket which is lined. The pattern called for shoulder pads, which I am not putting in. I've gotten to the point where I'm going to put in the lining but when trying on the jacket, am not happy with the 'line' of the shoulder, it doesn't look crisp if you know what I mean. I didn't put any twill tape on the shoulder seam and now I'm thinking I should have. Should I do it now, or would putting a strip of interfacing on the seam give it a crisper look?
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: MartySews
Date: 09-08-2006, 06:49 PM (2 of 4)
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On your tweed jacket, the shoulder seam needs to be stabilized. You can use some twill tape or clear elastic. Did you alter your pattern to remove the excess fullness of the shoulder pad and redraw the shoulder line since you are not planning to use one? If not, it may not fit properly or have a professional look. Hope this helps. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: kmccrea
Date: 09-08-2006, 06:54 PM (3 of 4)
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The pattern calls for shoulder pads and the room needed for them was added onto the pattern. When you decided not to put in the shoulder pads you probably did not remove the extra ease and that caused your shoulder line to "collapse". Put a piece of fleece or batting on the shoulder seam line or wrap the seam allowances with flannel as if doing a Hong Kong finish before putting your lining in. That should make a nicer, firmer shoulder line without the bulk of a shoulder pad. Next time remember to remove 1 to 1.5 inches (half for each front and back) from the shoulder just below the seam line if you decide not to use shoulder pads. The pattern envelope or guidesheet suggest what size shoulder pads to use, so you just take amount out. Personally, I don't like them because I look like a football player or B.B. King with them on. Katherine McCrea
Designer At Large |
User: kmccrea
Member since: 05-07-2006 Total posts: 173 
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From: bridesmom
Date: 09-08-2006, 11:01 PM (4 of 4)
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I think I understand what both of you are saying. I did take out some of the width in the shoulder (or length across the top??) and I think I should have taken in some more of the seam between the neck and the shoulder edge. At the moment it seems to fit quite well, after numerous tries at it. But I think it needs the fleece or flannel treatment just to firm it up a bit. I agree with the shoulder pad idea. I don't need the extra width in the shoulders, though I sure do find that in almost every pattern I have to take a good 1/2 inch off the shoulder width to get the sleeve to fit at the shoulder and not hanging off onto my arm. I will play a bit more with it tomorrow. Thanks for the tips!
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
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