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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: abcameo
Date: 09-18-2006, 06:23 PM (1 of 18)
I don't know what's gone wrong. The velvet purse I serged and sewed about a week ago ran fine on my machines.

I still have the serger set up--haven't changed any settings, but when I went to sew another purse (same fabric, same lining), the lining kept puckering (despite pins) and it came out uneven. I tried again a few times, and the same thing happened.

I then decided to machine baste the fabric to hold it in place. That was even worse. I tried different feet (including the tricot for slippery fabric), varied the tensions, the stitch length, lining side down/lining side up...nothing. The lining keeps moving around and either slips out from underneath the needle no matter how I try to guide or pin the fabric, or else its cramming and coming out puckered.

I'm trying to sew a simple rectangle--nothing fancy. It's really getting me ticked because I need to get this project done ASAP. Would someone please help explain what's going on and how to remedy the problem. :nc:

Please don't bother telling me to walk away for a day because I already tried that and all it did was put me further behind. :shock:
Many thanks,
Amy
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: Mom of Six
Date: 09-18-2006, 07:01 PM (2 of 18)
Is it cut on the same grainline as the other? Sometimes things will pucker depending on whether you are using the vertical or horizontal grain lines.
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!!
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001
Total posts: 1115
From: esrun3
Date: 09-18-2006, 08:05 PM (3 of 18)
Did you make sure you had a new needle in your machines?
Lyn
User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004
Total posts: 2345
From: plrlegal
Date: 09-18-2006, 10:57 PM (4 of 18)
Do either of your machines have tension adjustments for the presser foot. Sounds like it's a feeding problem. Also, what kind of foot are you using to feed the velvet and the lining?

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: abcameo
Date: 09-19-2006, 01:38 PM (5 of 18)
Replies:
Does the grainline matter if I have to stitch all three sides anyway? I mean, it is going to be stitched in both grain directions.

Oh, I used a needle all right--I did plenty of ripping back.

I gave up using the serge and went to the sewing machine. I tried adjusting the top and presser foot tensions. I tried a basic foot, a teflon foot for slippery fabrics, a few different needles. The thing is, I made the same purse two weeks ago, and it sewed up fine, on the serger, on all sides using all the same fabric, same settings, same everything as I used on the first purse.

I was at an ASG meeting last night and asked one of the expert sewers. She knew immediately that the lining and velvet were separating as soon as I mentioned what I was trying to do. She suggested spray adhesive and/or a thin strip of tissue paper between the velvet and lining. This, though, would show through in front I think when I turn the fabric to the right side.

Thoughts?
Amy
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-19-2006, 02:41 PM (6 of 18)
If you use tissue paper you can rip it off when you turn the bag so it won't show because it won't be there.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: paroper
Date: 09-19-2006, 05:30 PM (7 of 18)
The velvet is a brush and the lining is "walking:" on the brush.

Yes, grainline ALWAYS matters...they need to be cut on the same grainline...but I don't think that particular thing is your problem.

Your advisor is correct about one solution. The best that I've found is something called Wonder Tape. It is a two sided tape that you can put between the two layers and it will hold them together and keep them from walking.

DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT use pins with your serger!!!! If you run over one of these with your blade you WILL dull your blade and there is serious danger that you will put nicks in the blade. The nicks will cause your serger to chew your fabrics and the blades are terribly expensive to replace. NO NO NO!!!!!!! I'd rap your knuckles but you aren't close enough!!!!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: plrlegal
Date: 09-19-2006, 08:49 PM (8 of 18)
I can actually feel myself cringing everytime anyone talks about using pins while they are serging. If you hit a pin with the needles or the blades, you may end up paying for a costly repair if you knock your loopers out of time and/or cause a looper to bend or break.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: abcameo
Date: 09-19-2006, 09:18 PM (9 of 18)
Hi, Everyone:
Back from JoAnn's. My wallet is noticeably thinner while my credit card has very obviously fattened up! :bg:

Now, don't spank me! I only use pins all the way out from the foot--where it won't get pulled in there, or else, I have the pins vertical to the foot, and as the fabric comes upward, I'm very careful to pull them out before they get anywhere near the actual foot.

I also--and you'll be proud of me for this--wear a pair of safety glasses when I use my serger, and pretty often using my sewing machine. Once a needle broke and went flying into my neck. That taught me a scary lesson, so now I wear very thin, very transparent safety glasses when I sew. It's become a habit now. I definitely want to protect my eyes.

I'm friendly with the gals who run the sewing machine/serger dept. at JoAnn's They have graciously volunteered to help me when I need advice--which is basically every time I design anything, and then again when I go near my machines with fabric. :bg: I asked her about the velvet problem. She told me to try a walking foot. I think I tried every one but that. I do think I have some of the special sticky sewing tape around here, though, so I'll try both.

As for the tissue paper, I've used that a couple of times, and no matter how diligent I try to be about getting all the little pokies out, they still show. I figured wetting the tissue would make it fray off, but it didn't. So I'm reluctant to use that method again, especially on an evening purse.

I bought some nice filler to add loft. It's called "Warm and Natural," and I think it will work perfectly if doubled over.

Thanks to everyone for the great advice and for caring enough to want to slap me. :smile:
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-20-2006, 08:32 AM (10 of 18)
Well Patsy or I should have mentioned that walking foot. But we are both spoiled I guess. It is usually the first thing I think of with that sort of problem.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: abcameo
Date: 09-20-2006, 04:15 PM (11 of 18)
Ohmigosh--just had the hit your forehead/lightbulb moment.

Someone e-mailed to tell me they were intrigued with my problem and tried sewing velvet and lining to see.

Sure enough, it happened to her as well. Her solution? Sew the lining and the bag seam separately--and use velvet for the foldover flap so that I'm still stitching velvet to velvet and lining to lining.

So simple--so obvious... :bang:
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: Magot
Date: 09-20-2006, 05:31 PM (12 of 18)
Sometimes you just need someone else to think outside of the box. I hope it works now.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us
Cells a Speciality
DNA to order.
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002
Total posts: 3626
From: plrlegal
Date: 09-20-2006, 10:27 PM (13 of 18)
You're right Dorothy, I have no idea why I didn't think of a walking foot. I've sewn a lot of velvet and velour and I always use my walking foot. I guess we are pretty spoiled Dorothy with our Pfaff with the built in walking foot. We don't think about adding a walking foot to our machines.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: kmccrea
Date: 09-21-2006, 01:45 AM (14 of 18)
Ah, I couldn't live without my walking foot! When I bought my machine all those years ago, I bought the walking foot at the same time! About 10 years later the machines are going strong but I've had to replace the walking foot. The plastic arm cracked! Well, with as much as I sew, 10 years is a good run!
I'm glad you got your velvet purse worked out.
Katherine McCrea
Designer At Large
User: kmccrea
Member since: 05-07-2006
Total posts: 173
From: abcameo
Date: 09-21-2006, 02:46 AM (15 of 18)
Built in walking foot?? You mean your machine always walks and doesn't crunch the fabric below?

That's what I love about my serger--knowing that when I start a seam, it'll end up still matching by the time I reach the bottom of the darn thing.

I don't like my walking foot for my Janome--I don't know why exactly. It's just big and I have to unscrew the clip on section (for holding the feet) and set it aside to attach the walking foot. It makes me feel like something's amiss for some strange reason... :bolt:
Amy
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-21-2006, 08:04 AM (16 of 18)
Built in walking foot?? You mean your machine always walks and doesn't crunch the fabric below?

Well, yeah -- that's what we mean.
But you can lift it if you don't want it down -- a few feet won't work with it.
I keep it down nearly all the time.
I hate to sound like an ad, but when you are looking for a new machine check out Pfaff. They almost all have them.
Wonderful gadgets.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: abcameo
Date: 09-21-2006, 01:41 PM (17 of 18)
Okay, Dorothy--remind me in about 10 years... :bluewink:
User: abcameo
Member since: 11-02-2004
Total posts: 131
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-21-2006, 01:54 PM (18 of 18)
By then they will all have them.
Or something better.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
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