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The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
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From: sew4funwme
Date: 09-18-2006, 09:57 PM (1 of 10)
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My first question is how do I sew a hem for the bottom of my toddlers skirt that I am making. I am not sure if I cut the fabric out in the right direction because no matter what I do to the ends they are fraying badly. The ends of the fabric seem as if it were made of felt (it is able to pull apart very easily.) I haVe started over a few times and ripped out the thread and started over. Any suggestions? What would be the proper hem to use for this project? Since the ends come apart so easily I was thinking I would just sew a regular seam first, then fold the ends up to the fold then sew again. Also another question I have is, after I cut out all my pieces of my pattern, do I then finnish all the pieces by pinking or zigzag stitch, then stitch my 5/8 seam to all pieces before I attach them to other pieces of fabric? I am asking this because I would rather ask than I assume so I don't go about my projects in the wrong way. I am very ambitious to learn more about sewing but at the same time I feel I want to give up. All the time I have been spending lately tends to get me know where. Anyone else feel like that at times? I wish I could just sit there and in a few hours have a wearable piece of clothing. Hopefully I get to that point someday, (soon?) =) I have had the tendancy so far to start projects and get myself stumped then start a brand new project. I am glad I found this online website to help me out. The times I went into Joanne Fabrics I felt so stupid asking all these beginner questions and only getting half answers in return and then coming home more confussed than when I started. Looking for some good advice from you all out there on sew-whats-new.com Jennifer |
User: sew4funwme
Member since: 09-16-2006 Total posts: 5 
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 09-18-2006, 11:47 PM (2 of 10)
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Welcome, Jennifer. My favorite kind of questions. Yes, you will get there. I used to do a lot more swearing than I do now, and I also started and abandoned multiple projects--constantly imagining anmd starting worthy projects and then getting discouraged with them and tossing them aside. The main reason this has improved is that I stepped back and 1) chose patterns that were just _slightly_ beyond my grasp, so I had only one or two new things to learn in a project, and 2)selected fabrics more carefully....or, maybe with more hindsight. I also vowed to clear my desk before I made another purchase. That helped quite a bit. Sounds like the fabric you're using is freying quite a bit, and that's making this more difficult for you. Ordinarily, you wouldn't have to zig-zag all edges first, since some edges will end up enclosed. In fact, I usually sew a seam and then trim it sparingly with pinking shears, or else zig zag over each side of the seam allowance seperately. Some people serge instead. For fabrics that frey mercilessly, go ahead and make an enclosed hem before it unravels and becomes a much shorter piece than you planned! (try rolled hem, for ex) There's a product called Frey Check which is supposed to stop freying, but I've never tried it. Maybe someone else will kow if it's appropriate for this. For your next project, consider the using same pattern but use a seersucker or plain cotton weave, if it's included in the pattern's list of suggested fabrics. You'll have an easier time of it, and you'll gain something in the repetition. Also, the second time you use the pattern, it will sew up faster, and you can start playing with embellishments if you haven't already. Best wishes!
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: pucktricks
Date: 09-18-2006, 11:55 PM (3 of 10)
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I wouldn't use Fray Check for this, for a couple of reasons. 1. It's kind of like painting clear nail polish on the edge of your fabric, and makes it have a certain stiffness/scarchiness to it. 2. It would take forever, and most of a bottle to apply to a whole outfit. The best use of Fray Check in my mind is for trims and such things where you don't want it to unravel on you. From the description you've given, it sounds like you have the right idea for the hem. As far as finishing edges goes.... I'll admit that if I'm sewing for my kids and know they're going to be outgrowing it soon anyways, I'll tend to cut it out with my pinking shears, and just finished the edges like that. I am not saying this allows for precision sewing or is a good idea when you're starting out. I'm just lazy, and have bought a pair of the Fiskars pinking shears that have the nice spring on it, to make cutting easier. Ticia, who is incredibly lazy and imprecise in her sewing |
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570 
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From: bridesmom
Date: 09-19-2006, 12:46 AM (4 of 10)
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Jennifer, we have all been where you are. Cheer up, you will create something you love sooner or later!! I'd do the double hem like you are thinking about, makes a much nicer finished look to it. And pink the edges of the seams. If the fabric is really fraying lot before you even get to sew it, you can go around a pink all the edges before you sew any seams. I've done that before, and now with a serger have serged all the edges before sewing a seam if its one that wants to fray alot. Good luck! You can do it!
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-19-2006, 08:06 AM (5 of 10)
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If pinking is unpleasant -- I hate it -- you can zig-zag around all the pieces before assembly. Then you don't have to finish them later. When I used a treadle (no zig-zag) I would sew a couple rows of straight stitches around the pieces with fabrics that would fray, such as corduroy. Even that little bit helped a lot. I agree with Andrea. Next time try a more cooperative fabric. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-19-2006, 08:28 AM (6 of 10)
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I wouldn't use Fray Check. It can discolor the fabric, and is stiff and scratchy. I spent hours and hours doing a lovely little white pique dress for my daughter. I scalloped every edge, sleeves, ruffles, neckline, hem, both ties with grass green rayon embroidery thread and did tiny little flowers and leaves on the 3 tiers of ruffles that went down the back, around all the edges and down the ties. I used Fray Check to make sure that my garment didn't fray? I still have the dress but the Fray Check turned a nasty yellow color and it is ruined! If the hem calls for a long hem (couple of inches), you can turn the edge of the hem once, stitch it and then turn up your hem edge. This can also be done on the facings..just turn up the edges and sew around them (they will be fine). If your hem is small a double fold hem will be great! This was commonly done before we got zig zag machines. The proper way to pink edges is to sew a line about 1/4 of an inch from the edge, sew your seams and then pink in the remaining edges. You never cut out a pattern with pinking sheers. Some of them aren't very sharp and this can give you a big headache but you also cannot get an accurate cut which is essential to a well made/well fitted pattern. For the actual seams, you might consider a French seam (probably too late at this point but something to consider). With a French seam you make the seam on the right side of the garment sewing about 1/4 inch from the edge. Press the seam in a crease. Then sew another seam 3/8 inch from the pressed edge. This encases the raw edges and makes a nice clean edge. At the sleeves you can then use bias tape to enclose the seam edges. You can enclose all the seams in bias tape. You can also sew bias tape to the top of the hem and then turn it up and hem with that. That was another common thing that was done before we had a lot of sergers or machines with zig zag. You just do a slip stitch by hand in the top fold of the bias tape to hold the hem. The tape will conform to the shape of the hem. It is also a great way to hem circular skirts. If the fabric is fraying a lot it may have a high rayon content (or it could just be in the weave). Always check the care instructions on the end of the bolt of the fabric to make sure that it can be washed. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: doublekgifts
Date: 09-19-2006, 08:45 AM (7 of 10)
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Hi Jennifer I've been there too! I sat under the tree one Christmas Eve. crying my eyes out trying to finish PJ's for my children. Don't expect your first projects to look perfect. You will learn more from the first few things that you make than anything else you do. A few things that helped me are studying the pattern, there is great information on the pieces. The library has lots of great beginner books (I still read these after 20 years of sewing). The thing that has helped me the most is taking and referring to my own notes. Lots of Luck Kathy
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User: doublekgifts
Member since: 03-17-2006 Total posts: 15 |
From: MaryW
Date: 09-19-2006, 08:58 AM (8 of 10)
Jennifer, we all know exactly how you feel. There isn't one of us who hasn't gotten teary eyed over some silly thing. Take a deep breath and finish one thing at a time. You are doing just fine. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: esrun3
Date: 09-19-2006, 09:29 AM (9 of 10)
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Hi Jennifer, Welcome to the boards. I read your post and was ready with some answers but the ones I've come up with have all been covered here. Don't give up, we've all been there. You WILL get through this and eventually come up with an outfit you love. I would try making the same outfit again with a different fabric -hopefully a more cooperative one! The 2nd time will be easier and go together much faster than the first one as long as you remember any mistakes you made and don't repeat them. Good luck!! Keep us posted!
Lyn
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User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: sew4funwme
Date: 09-21-2006, 08:44 PM (10 of 10)
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I wouldn't use Fray Check. It can discolor the fabric, and is stiff and scratchy. I spent hours and hours doing a lovely little white pique dress for my daughter. I scalloped every edge, sleeves, ruffles, neckline, hem, both ties with grass green rayon embroidery thread and did tiny little flowers and leaves on the 3 tiers of ruffles that went down the back, around all the edges and down the ties. I used Fray Check to make sure that my garment didn't fray? I still have the dress but the Fray Check turned a nasty yellow color and it is ruined! If the hem calls for a long hem (couple of inches), you can turn the edge of the hem once, stitch it and then turn up your hem edge. This can also be done on the facings..just turn up the edges and sew around them (they will be fine). If your hem is small a double fold hem will be great! This was commonly done before we got zig zag machines. The proper way to pink edges is to sew a line about 1/4 of an inch from the edge, sew your seams and then pink in the remaining edges. You never cut out a pattern with pinking sheers. Some of them aren't very sharp and this can give you a big headache but you also cannot get an accurate cut which is essential to a well made/well fitted pattern. For the actual seams, you might consider a French seam (probably too late at this point but something to consider). With a French seam you make the seam on the right side of the garment sewing about 1/4 inch from the edge. Press the seam in a crease. Then sew another seam 3/8 inch from the pressed edge. This encases the raw edges and makes a nice clean edge. At the sleeves you can then use bias tape to enclose the seam edges. You can enclose all the seams in bias tape. You can also sew bias tape to the top of the hem and then turn it up and hem with that. That was another common thing that was done before we had a lot of sergers or machines with zig zag. You just do a slip stitch by hand in the top fold of the bias tape to hold the hem. The tape will conform to the shape of the hem. It is also a great way to hem circular skirts. If the fabric is fraying a lot it may have a high rayon content (or it could just be in the weave). Always check the care instructions on the end of the bolt of the fabric to make sure that it can be washed. I bought bias tape yesterday. Any tips on using this? I would think that would solve my problem. I need to get over the flu still then I will get out all my sewing this weekend. Thanks for the suggestion. Jennifer |
User: sew4funwme
Member since: 09-16-2006 Total posts: 5
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