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From: MaryW
Date: 09-20-2006, 01:16 PM (1 of 10)
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Anyone got any tips on sewing with lycra? It is 97% wool and 3% lycra. A lady tried to sew with it and it bunched up. She asks if maybe sewing bias tape to the seams would work. I don't really think she has to do that but I have not sewed with this fabric so any and all help is appreciated.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: paroper
Date: 09-20-2006, 06:03 PM (2 of 10)
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Sorry, not a clue on this. It is amazing the things they are putting spandex and lycra in, isn't it? My guess is that the presser foot pressure might need to be adjusted and the stitch lengthened slightly because of the weight and depth of the fabric. This could be true of just plain old wool. A walking foot or even a teflon foot in place of the walking foot might be helpful. If the fabric has a lot of stretch (3% shouldn't be too significant except for comfort), you might want to either use a stretch stitch..looks like 3 rows of straight stitch, two forward, one back, two forward or a slight zig zag just to get a little more thread into the seamline. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MaryW
Date: 09-20-2006, 06:10 PM (3 of 10)
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The lady has already tried a walking foot with poor results.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: paroper
Date: 09-20-2006, 11:50 PM (4 of 10)
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Well, you don't say where or how it is bunching...if the top is not feeding evenly through the presser foot so that it is "bunching" in front of the foot while the bottom layer is feeding through more or less evenly..or with a little effort perhaps, my guess is that the presser foot is set too low and needs to be raised some to allow the fabric to feed evenly. The presser foot should just ride on the fabric with an even pressure but allow the fabric to flow through the foot. Wool is usually a rather "fluffy" and has a sponge texture to it so that it has a little more loft than say a calico. Once she has the right foot pressure on the fabric she could probably take or leave the walking foot. I have one but rarely really seem to need it...I usually only pull it out when I'm in big trouble. If it is bunching behind the foot like the seam is puckering I would say that it is probably tension and possibly that the stitches are to small and too straight. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-20-2006, 11:56 PM (5 of 10)
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By the way, not all machines have pressure adjustments for the presser foot but if it does, it is usually inside a door on the end of the machine or on the left end. It is usually about 2/3 of the way down from the top of the machine. It can look like a number of things but usually looks like a dial with numbers or some sort of hash marks or dots. I don't recall ever seeing a lever but I would think that it could even be a lever on that end of the machine.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sancin
Date: 09-21-2006, 03:16 AM (6 of 10)
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I wonder if she is pulling and stretching the fabric as she sews? With or without lycra, wool plusher than cottons as Pam describes. Sometimes when nervous about sewing or worrying about the fabric one stretches fabric without really being aware of it. This can happen when the stitch is difficult to see when sewing - as it is in wool when the thread sinks into the fabric. When I have found myself doing this I sometimes put a little mirror behind the machine so I can see the seam coming out behind the needle. Why is it that the light always seems brighter behind the needle? 
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
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From: sewmuchfun
Date: 09-21-2006, 06:11 AM (7 of 10)
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She might try and use stabilizer both under and on top.. If she uses the tear away she can just tear if off after.. This would help the fabric feed more evenly.. MM Marilyn
Sewforme Stashaway |
User: sewmuchfun
Member since: 07-22-2005 Total posts: 67 |
From: nannylin
Date: 09-21-2006, 07:19 AM (8 of 10)
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A clerk at our local fabric store suggested stabilizing the seam--but with paper! She uses the rolls of paper that are designed for adding machines, etc. Watches for it to go on sale at a job lot or discount place. She says that it tears more easily than tearaway stabilizer, doesn't leave little bits under the stitches, and since it is so narrow it is easy to work with. Makes the fabric glide under the presser foot. Linda |
User: nannylin
Member since: 02-27-2006 Total posts: 47 
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From: paroper
Date: 09-21-2006, 09:37 AM (9 of 10)
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In the earlier days of embroidery and embellishing machines (that had really fancy stitches), we used paper under the foot to help support the stitches. Adding machine paper was perfect (sure puts of lot of lint and "dots" in and around your machine though.)
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: morningrose
Date: 09-22-2006, 10:49 AM (10 of 10)
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Anything with Lycra can be tricky. In addition to stabilizer (paper), make sure both top and bottom are feeding evenly. Even with a walking foot, there can be problems, and the best way is to use a 'taught' sewing method. Hold the fabric on both sides of the presser foot taught, but don't stretch. This is also a good technique for slinky fabrics, which even this small amount of Lycra mimics.
Raven
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User: morningrose
Member since: 12-16-2004 Total posts: 15 |
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