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From: mrsedge
Date: 09-22-2006, 07:02 PM (1 of 19)
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I was just wondering if anyone knows how to make a size 26 pattern a size 32?
"If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer." Henry David Thoreau (1817 - 1862)
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User: mrsedge
Member since: 09-21-2006 Total posts: 3 |
From: MartySews
Date: 09-22-2006, 10:40 PM (2 of 19)
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It's a bit difficult to downsize a pattern. However, I would check the personal body measurements against the printed flat pattern piece. Trace out the smaller size on pattern paper adding seam allowances of at least 1 inch. This is where your dressmaker ruler and flexible curve come in handy. Make a muslin garment and check the fit. Add where needed or take in if that is the case. Hope that this helps. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: mrsedge
Date: 09-22-2006, 10:56 PM (3 of 19)
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I'm a plus sized girl. The pattern is a costume pattern that comes up to a size 26. I need it to be a size 32 and I was wondering if there was a standard way to upsize the pattern. On another pattern I'm working on the difference between a 26 and a 32 is 1.5in. Is that a standard? I don't want to cut my material and it end up being way to small. We don't have a whole lot of money for trial and error on this one.
"If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer." Henry David Thoreau (1817 - 1862)
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User: mrsedge
Member since: 09-21-2006 Total posts: 3 |
From: keljo60
Date: 09-23-2006, 07:24 AM (4 of 19)
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If you have a size 32 pattern that is similar you could lay the size 26 on top with extra tracing or tissue paper and trace from the 32 where needed to enlarge. What does the costume look like?
Kelly
Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup! |
User: keljo60
Member since: 07-30-2006 Total posts: 154 
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From: paroper
Date: 09-23-2006, 09:25 AM (5 of 19)
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Your size 26 pattern probably has 3 sizes on it. You need to go up 2. What I do is lay down my tracing paper and measure the differences between the size 22 pattern and the 26. Then I go around the size 26 pattern making dots that are out exactly that distance from the 26. this will turn a bit at the corners of the sleeves and there will be places (maybe) where the cut is into the pattern, not above the pattern but more into the pattern so you need to really watch what you are doing. THere will be a few places where you are a whole lot closer to the pattern like the tops of the sleeves and the shoulders. When you get through, connect the dots and you have a size 32 pattern. Once you have done this a few times it gets pretty simple. Back a few years ago when the patterns stopped often at 16 or sometimes 18. I had a bride bring patterns for her bridesmaids dresses. I had a size 10, 14 and a size 26 that had to be upsized from a 16. This is the way I did it and it worked perfectly...just had to do it more than once (unfortunately). I've been doing it this way ever since and it keeps everything in perfect proportion. Now, when you are doing smaller sizes it is a little different because often smaller sizes change just an inch between sizes, not 2.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MartySews
Date: 09-23-2006, 10:11 AM (6 of 19)
Oh my goodness, what was I thinking (hanging head in shame) I totally misunderstood the question. Guess that comes from trying to read and answer late at night. Sorry about that. Now, I will be quiet.Happy Stitching! Marty It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504
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From: mrsedge
Date: 09-23-2006, 11:38 AM (7 of 19)
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It's a renaissance dress with long sleeves. On the nightgown pattern I have that goes from a 26 to a 32 the difference is 1.5in. Is that a standard? Of course around the shoulder seem it's a bit different but as far as the overall would the 1.5in. make sense?
"If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer." Henry David Thoreau (1817 - 1862)
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User: mrsedge
Member since: 09-21-2006 Total posts: 3 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-23-2006, 01:17 PM (8 of 19)
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As long as you stay pretty close to the pattern sizes you've got as a standard you should be fine. Since there can be wide variations between pattern companies, if you are matching a pattern you have to the other pattern you may want to see how closely they fit each other (comparing the same size.) You may find the pattern that you are trying to change is considerably smaller or larger than the standard you normally use. If you are going to spend a considerable amount of money on fabric for this project, you might want to do your sizing and then make a mock up of just the top i9n some inexpensive or left over stable fabric (no facings or zipper and the sleeve if there is a set in sleeve) to make sure that it fits well.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Cathie.Tombs
Date: 09-26-2006, 02:05 PM (9 of 19)
| I thought some of you could use the info in Barbara Deckert's lovely book, Sewing for Plus Sizes, Creating Clothes that Fit and Flatter (Taunton). I'll keep this short, as my cold is getting to me. But, she shows how to upsize patterns, up to 32. I need to do this, as am a variety of "sizes", from 14 to 24 (!), and she is easy to read, and very encouraging. Also, lots of gorgeous photos of real women, size 18 to 32, very therapeutic and fun!!!! Happy sewing!!!!! |
User: Cathie.Tombs
Member since: 08-27-2006 Total posts: 44 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 09-26-2006, 08:04 PM (10 of 19)
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Do you have an old sheet or can you pick up a used one at the thrift store as a muslin, then trace your pattern out on it, baste it up and see how it fits. I'd hate to see you cut it out on the good fabric and end up finding it's too small or too big.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: weezyrider
Date: 09-27-2006, 12:02 PM (11 of 19)
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Here's another suggestion. I have a plus sized daughter and being lazy and hating darts, I changed the darts to gathers. This was her wedding dress, and it was a high-waisted renaissance overskirt McCall's. Didn't have to worry about the fit at the bustline, and the gathers made the fit to the skirt. Weezy 
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User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218 
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From: weezyrider
Date: 09-27-2006, 12:06 PM (12 of 19)
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Sandra Betzina has some info on upsizing in her first book. I think it would work if you don't need the arms, neck or anything special upsized. (She did it from the shoulder. 1/4 inch increase on both front & back shoulder seams would give 1" increase. I'm thinking of using this on a shirt where the sleeves and neck are the right size. I do have the book on plus sizes, but they are all for styles of clothes no one in my family will wear. I need a book on upsizing mostly what the younger non business crowd is wearing, or the actual increments in sizes. Weezy 
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User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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From: Bekka
Date: 09-27-2006, 01:47 PM (13 of 19)
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Grading Techniques for Fashion Design Jeanne Price Bernard Zamkoff Fairchild Publications New York I don't know how much it is now as I bought mine in 1996. BUT this is a great book and will tell you what you need to know. Hope this helps Bekka Bekka
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User: Bekka
Member since: 07-28-2006 Total posts: 79 |
From: weezyrider
Date: 09-28-2006, 10:19 AM (14 of 19)
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I doubt that the book will help. It says fashion design. I am not interested in what designers think I should wear. I prefer the craft-type sewing patterns. Is there a book available for men's fitting? I need references to upsizing NON-FITTED clothes. For instance, I know how to taper pants - but I don't know how MUCH to taper pants. I can measure the person - but how much ease do you put in? If the pattern company would put up ALL the measurements they use, it would be easy to figure out. How do I know what measurement around the leg they used to determine that such and such a measurement means a size 12 or 14? It took me 5 years to find a book on how to remove a dart! I'd even asked in groups like this. Usual answer - designer says it should be there - you need it for fit - if it doesn't fit right, you won't feel pretty or feminine. Yeah, right - like I care. If I'm not comfortable, then I have a problem. I'd rather see the updates on the Mars Rovers (Spirit and Opportunity) than read what the new fashion is. Just read today that Opportunity's still trucking - Amazing! Weezy |
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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From: mommydionne
Date: 09-28-2006, 10:37 AM (15 of 19)
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well actually that would likely be a good book for this problem since it addresses grading, another good book is Helen Anderson's Patternmaking for Fashion Design, in a lot of the more "industrial" books fashion design refers to creating a pattern and how to, not what's in or out, these are classic texts. And it tells you lots of ways to get rid of a dart (move it, ease it, gather it, change it to a princess seam etc)
Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
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From: Bekka
Date: 09-28-2006, 11:17 AM (16 of 19)
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If the pattern is a size 26 and you need it to be a 32 and there is a bell sleeve (or whatever) , it tells you how to GRADE the sleeve UP or Down. It goes through each pattern piece by style ( fitted, semi-fitted, tent etc.) and shows how to grade. Same with different designs of collars. It's not a book that tells you what someone else thinks you should wear. Bekka Bekka
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User: Bekka
Member since: 07-28-2006 Total posts: 79 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-28-2006, 03:08 PM (17 of 19)
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It is a very practical book.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Cathie.Tombs
Date: 09-28-2006, 05:06 PM (18 of 19)
| I can understand the frustrations you feel with the more complex books. Sandra Betzina does write well re: up-sizing. Another idea here. I really like comfortable clothes, and walk my dog daily, and live out of the city (in a large town). I am sporty, and so wear exercise type clothes a lot, like when sewing, etc. Now, if you want garments like something you have seen, you can copy, and modify. At the end I will include info on a book on this (which I only have a section of, but great). I am plus, but very curvy, with more difference between bust/waist/hips than usual patterns. Fit is always a big stress. Soon will try Lutterloh System (once cold over, and then there's that kitchen up-grade project). I do come across very good rummage, for a song, for example, yesterday a lovely princess dress, but, with the 46 bust, it doesn't zip. By analyzing the fit, I can see than pretty gussets added at upper sides can look like a design element, and will give me room for my D cup. And not a hard alteration. As for tapering garments, it all depends on the person who will wear the garment. You can pin, baste, check the fit/look (be sure you can move, sit, etc. (I have made many wonders that looked great till I moved, then the wrinkles showed, and, oh, the strain). Us Plus people must remember that when we move, sit, etc., our curves move too. Barbara D. has great tips for Plus sewing in Sew News Q and A every month. I print, and put in a cardboard file, called Plus. I also have printed other info on changes I must make to every paper pattern. Also, there are styles where less changes are needed, fun to make in cheerful, comfy fabrics. Style is wearing what we like, and what fits, with panache. Now, here is the book I mentioned (although the title specifies lingerie, there is a lot on copying, and improving, existing clothes). "Sewing Lingerie that Fits:, by Karen Morris (Taunton). Happy sewing!!!! |
User: Cathie.Tombs
Member since: 08-27-2006 Total posts: 44 |
From: weezyrider
Date: 09-29-2006, 10:42 AM (19 of 19)
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That's why we stick with sporty clothes. None of us want to bother with clothes care. Another problem is the age of the stuff. Even though I could wear what I call older styles I won't as to me they are just plain tacky. My daughter is young enough to prefer what the kids wear (with reservations - I don't think she'd wear holey jeans. I love 'em) She wouldn't be interested in anything like fashions by Coni. I also refuse to use any fabric I can't toss in the washer and dryer. We have too many other irons in the fire and something has to give. We are a low maintenance family. Now I have to figure out what fabric to swap for a non-washable! Weezy |
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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