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From: lvquilts
Date: 09-28-2006, 05:04 PM (1 of 13)
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Hello, Can someone please educate me as to the difference between these two products? I created a cushion cover in a log cabin quilt block pattern. Because I'm not quilting it, it dawned on me that perhaps my 1/4 inch seams won't be sturdy enough (this is a cushion at the back of a rocker, so it will see some wear). I have some people swearing I need stabilizer and others saying I need to get interfacing!! What's your opinion and why? Feel free to share horror stories so I can learn from you!  Thanks, Katie |
User: lvquilts
Member since: 07-16-2006 Total posts: 29 |
From: Shai
Date: 09-28-2006, 07:15 PM (2 of 13)
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Great question Katie. I make handbags and I use 1/2 inch seam allowances for wear and tear. I realize bags and cushions are not the same thing but they both see their share of use. I think the difference between interfacing and stabilizer is that interfacing is to give body where stabilizer is to give structure. Then again - I'm very new at this and I could be entirely wrong.  Shai |
User: Shai
Member since: 09-05-2006 Total posts: 17 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-28-2006, 08:49 PM (3 of 13)
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Stabilzer is meant to make the fabric stable. It does not have visible fibers, does not give in any direction. It is used to HOLD the fabric in place against the pressure and tork of the machine which pulls the fabric inward as it stitches. That is why it is used in machine embroidery. Interfacing will shread when used as stabilier. It is not as strong, but stiffens and adds body. It is designed to give and move with the body and the fabric. The old fashioned stabilizer was frequently cotton organza, a nice crisp light weight woven fabric. Different grades of woven, all the way to buckram has been used but all of it gives, shifts and moves. Even the non-woven interfacings we use will shread when pulled. Often when doing hand embroidery interfacing is often used because availablility and although there is a draw, the pull of hand embroidery is not as great as that by a machine. In terms of just generally speaking, many people use the same terminology, esp. when talking of sewing somthing: "You need to stabilize that neckline." It is up to the mafchine artist to know the difference in materials. When dealing with purses and the like I generally think in terms of interfacing and interfacing products, not stabilizer, unless there is machine embroidery involved. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-28-2006, 11:29 PM (4 of 13)
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I'm interested in how this shakes out. I'm guessing an iron-on interfacing because you want to stabilize and strengthen your seams. A knit or woven one. But I don't have a quilt in the house, so what do I know? I will not give in to the evil lure of quilting. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: lvquilts
Date: 09-29-2006, 06:40 AM (5 of 13)
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Thanks for your input, ladies. I think I'll be trying a woven interfacing. I'm told there are iron-on interfacings, I'm assuming that will make it stiff, but not as stiff as stabilizer. My guess is, that at this point, the best protection for the seams would be an iron on product...something that won't allow the seams to shift as much and possibly fray. Dorothy, quilting is really just the next logical step for someone who loves fabric. What could be better than working with a pretty fabric? LOTS of pretty fabrics!! Katie |
User: lvquilts
Member since: 07-16-2006 Total posts: 29 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-29-2006, 07:59 AM (6 of 13)
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Stabilizer doesn't make it stiffer. Interfacing makes it stiffer. Stabilizer keeps it from shifting. I made the terrible mistake of trying interfacing when making patches for a friend. The interfacing was heavier that my heaviest stabilizer and my thought was that it would make the patches thicker and heavier. They wanted to be able to spray them with a glue type product and move them from one apron to another as part of their business. Then they wanted to rent the aprons. When I applied the interfacing to my hoop, and pulled to tighten, the interfacing fell apart. It was not made for that. I had to use stabilizer because interfacing is NOT expected to withstand pulling and tugging that happens when doing machine embroidery. At the same time, stabilizer is strong. It doesn't have fibers that will seperate. It is NOT MEANT TO ADD STIFFNESS it is MEANT TO ADD STRENGTH to support the fabric under pressure. They are NOT stiff, even if they are heavy, they are STONG. When you finish with a project that needs to be stabilized, you remove everything you can except for the amount under the stitching. You do not want embroidered projects to be stiff, and after the project is completed, you don't want any trace of the stabilizer that you don't have to have. To make this a little easier....stabilizer is stong and withstands pressure "flatways" across the stabilzier. There are different types of stabilzer to match the type of fabric you are using and the application. Interfacing is stiff and strong WITHIN the fabric. It comes in different STIFFNESSES and depths to match the fabric...light weight for delicates, heavy weight for woolens and heavy fabrics, knit for a variety of applications. I hope that makes a little sense. We have used the term "stabilize" for years to describe interfacing but the term "stabilizer" is not a term that has become POPULAR in HOME home sewing circles until the home embroidery machine came into focus. Always before you've been able to go to the interfacing table and just pick up a bolt according to the project. Now you have to read a little more carefully because you can pick up a stabilizer instead of interfacing. If you decide to embroidery on the purse, you will use stabilizer to back the embroidery. You will then (probably) cut or tear away the stabilzer. Then you should apply interfacing to the purse to keep it stiff. There is a heavy quilting type interfacing. Here is a link to a major fabric store (don't be put off by the prices, most of these are bolt prices.) If you read down through the interfacing you find in each product description they talk about degree of support. There is one called Timtex that is used in making bowls and hat brims. If you get to the bottom they talk about stabilizers resisting pucker (from embroidery) and how it is removed, wash away, cut away, tear away.) http://www.denverfabrics.com/search/search.php?keywords=interfacing&page=1 Here is a link to a purse supply house and the interfacing that is used specifically in purses...just to give you an idea. http://www.tallpoppycraft.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=45&osCsid=2be50b50689a32d15ceb1401cbd025cd pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: lvquilts
Date: 09-29-2006, 09:13 AM (7 of 13)
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Paroper, I don't really need body for my pillow cover, the foam cushion would provide that. I'm looking for what I can do that might prevent the 1/4 inch seams I've got in my pillow cover from fray to nothing. Does this make sense? Seems like I'd have to go with interfacing because stablizer is meant to be removed as much as possible. I don't know that I'd be washing the pillowcase much, but I might be. Katie |
User: lvquilts
Member since: 07-16-2006 Total posts: 29 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-29-2006, 09:15 AM (8 of 13)
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I'd serge the edges if I had a serger. You might also consider using seam binding over the seams to help reinforce them.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: lvquilts
Date: 09-29-2006, 09:16 AM (9 of 13)
| Just had a thought. If the idea behind adding the interfacing is to provide a bit of body to prevent the cover from shifting around as much (and pulling at the seams), then interfacing would be the way to go. |
User: lvquilts
Member since: 07-16-2006 Total posts: 29 |
From: weezyrider
Date: 09-29-2006, 11:35 AM (10 of 13)
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Maybe you can overcast the edge of the seam with a sewing machine stitch? I asked about this with a raggy quilt. Since daughter wanted a cotton decorated thread, I told her to use a tiny zig-zag instead of straight stitch. Looked good with the zig. The quilt shops didn't have an answer to this. A raggy quilt is supposed to ravel at the seams, so I wanted to make sure it would STOP! Weezy |
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218 
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From: kmccrea
Date: 09-29-2006, 01:55 PM (11 of 13)
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An iron-on interfacing will do the trick. You don't need to use a very heavy one, either. Just make sure it's well adhered to your quilt and won't pull away. Kate Katherine McCrea
Designer At Large |
User: kmccrea
Member since: 05-07-2006 Total posts: 173 
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From: lvquilts
Date: 09-30-2006, 07:45 PM (12 of 13)
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Overcasting the edge would work...except that there's a gazillion of them. I'll have to stick that in the back of my mind for a future reference. I finally have a machine that does a zigzag stitch, so I wouldn't naturally think of using it! I purchased a lightweight woven fusible interfacing from JoAnn's today and plan on trying to apply it on Monday (some things are best done when the kids are at school). Here's the thing that confuses me: the instructions talk about preshrinking it by soaking it in warm water until the water cools, squeeze it in a towel to remove excess water, then hang it over the shower to dry. O.K., makes sense...except it's polyester! I thought polyester didn't shrink? What am I missing here? Things that make you go, "Hmmm". Katie |
User: lvquilts
Member since: 07-16-2006 Total posts: 29 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 10-01-2006, 08:46 AM (13 of 13)
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Sometimes the glue causes it to shrink up, I think. I usually preshrink by hitting it hard with steam. I would think that would work fine for what you are doing. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
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