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From: diana j.
Date: 10-09-2006, 09:51 PM (1 of 8)
Ok. I am having to remake the bodice for a matron of honor dress for a pregnant mother, Butterick 4527. I drew the bodice higher to accomodate her sense of modesty. However, the lower part (2 bust darts) is too short. How do I redraw it? Can I use the top part of the skirt pattern to add to the bodice pattern? If so, how to draw new darts. The skirt rode up in back and needs shortening... The dress has an empire waist with an A-line skirt. The client would like the front part of the skirt to have a little gathering to add definition to her growing stomach. I plan to make another muslin before making the dress again. If anyone with experience in bridal sewing can help me....I will be grateful!diana j. |
User: diana j.
Member since: 10-09-2006 Total posts: 6 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-10-2006, 01:14 AM (2 of 8)
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I'm not sure what you mean by too short...but If you mean that it needs to be wider to accomidate more up top then split the pattern in the center and add there. Cut and add it all the way across. Once you have everything added that you need, draw off a paper pattern with the alteration and measure the width of the new gap. cut a line through the bottom dart to the center of the new bustline. Cut a line through the side center to the center of the new bustline. Do not cut all the way through, but ALMOST so that it is just hanging. Swing the bottom dart over toward the side until you have "closed the gap amount. So what you have done is you have made the dart in the side move to the bottom dart position. Then redraw your bottom dart so that it stops 1 inch from the bust point. The center of the dart is STILL the center of the dart...it is just wider. Then fold the dart and with your fingers press the dart into proper position as it will be when it is in the pattern. Trim the bottom of the pattern even with the dart folded. WHen you unfold the dart you will have the recognizable "V" shape at the bottom of the dart to take care of the overlap. The other way would be to add a but dart to the side (slightly easier) to accomidate the changes in the bustline.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: diana j.
Date: 10-11-2006, 04:05 PM (3 of 8)
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Thank you for responding! I read and re-read a few times what you were explaining. I do not know what you mean by cutting across... you mean cutting the pattern horizontally? Also, there are no side darts on this empire bodice, just bottom darts. I am wondering if I should make princess seams???? The bottom part of the bodice does not cover her, the seam is about 2" too high. She is coming tomorrow morning so I can get some more measurements (apex to apex, shoulder to apex to empire waist) I had only made the first bodice with a higher top although it was not snug enough under her high bust (38"). I am trying very hard not have a no good very bad day, but when this is accomplished (I am excited about the experience!) I would like to go to Austrailia! diana j. 
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User: diana j.
Member since: 10-09-2006 Total posts: 6 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-11-2006, 05:30 PM (4 of 8)
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1. Make a rough draft up in something stable. This is usually called a muslin. BASTE it together at the side seams. When she puts it on you will pin down the center back..that is why you have the seamlines marked...also..the bottom seam lines tell you where the pattern will actually hit her and the top ones are also for reference. Put it together with a strap but do not finish anything...sew on the top seamlines ONLY for reference and just loosely pin the straps in place...that is not what you are trying to do. 2. Try the draft on her. Now, it is 2 inches too short...SO Slash the muslin across the center bustline of the pattern and open the pattern up. This will tell you exactly how much you need to enlarge the pattern...all the way across. I usually, at this point pin in some scrap fabric underneath so that I more or less can stabilize the opening and maintain that opening when I turn it into a pattern. Markk the center bust point. However much you open this section would turn into a dart at the side...it would be added in on a "normal garment". 3. Take your pattern and remake the top using the opening amount that you just measured...add it all the way across the top..marking the top of the side opening and the bottom of the side opening (I know you don't want a dart...and this is cool...just hang on here). Once you have added your amount and you have marked your bust point, drop back from the bust point one inch and make a mark. 4. Take a ruler and draw an angle from the top of your opening (dart) and the bottom of your opening (dart). This now makes a dart that fits your pattern. 5. Measure that dart width at the seamline or at the cutting line. 6. Slash through the bottom dart (almost) up to the bust point. Slash through the center of the new side "dart" almost to the bust point...this allows the pattern to move or pivot. 7. Close your new dart so that the lines of the dart are overlapping. This will cause the bottom dart to open wider. Tape the side dart closed with the dart "lines" so that they are exactly on top of each other. Stabilize the bottom dart with a piece of paper longer than the dart. 8. You have just made your alteration to fit your daughter. You have added a dart to the side to take up the slafck and you have moved it from the side of the dress to the area under the bust. 9. NOW. Fold the bottom dart and fold it as though it were a finished dart, folding the dart toward the center front. 10. Take scissors and cut across the cutting line so that it is even across the bottom of the dart (this will make it match the cutting line of the garment, you do not want to change the garment's regular cutting line). This will give the recognizable "v" shape to the bottom of the dart and make up for the mysterious lost fabric that occurs when you fold a dart. See if these instructions work better for you. You have to get the fabric into the garment and it has to fit the bustline. This is the best way to do it. It is just a little more complicated because the dart is below the bust. If you wish, as I stated in the earlier post, you can just add the dart to the side and that would be it...either way works. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: diana j.
Date: 10-12-2006, 08:20 PM (5 of 8)
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Thank you. I understood your instructions. With such a wide gap that has to be made horizontally I can see a side dart would be okay, too. Do I slash the back bodice the same way? There is a back bodice dart there, too. When the mother tried on the first dress the back skirt buckled up about 1 1/2". Do I cut that much off the skirt pattern? How does the shorten/lengthen line above the waist on the pattern fit into this problem? Or does it? I am making up the altered muslin for her to try on tomorrow or Saturday morning. You are a great help. diana j. |
User: diana j.
Member since: 10-09-2006 Total posts: 6 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-13-2006, 09:27 AM (6 of 8)
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All the length you are adding will go into the dart so no, the back doesn't have to be altered. If there is a problem in that area it is something else. However, the problem may just be because the front was not the right size. When you slash the dart, open the side basting up to the dart area from the bottom (so it won't fall off). At that time you should be able to determine what is happening in the back. You can do this on paper with measurments but there is nothing like seeing it in 3-D and in person to understand exactly what is happening, at least in my opinion.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: diana j.
Date: 10-16-2006, 09:15 PM (7 of 8)
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It worked! It worked! I had to cancel Saturday's appointment as I became sick...I was ready for her though today when she came... and she really liked the new bodice muslin with the side dart. She came again this evening to try on the muslin bodice with a short gathered skirt muslin to get an idea of what it will look like and she was thrilled! She had one more wish which I knew about from the beginning. That was to change the A-line skirt portion to a more straight skirt. Is it a correct procedure to draw from the hipline down a few sizes (from 22 to 16) to the bottom of where she wants a hem (several inches longer)? Thank you for all your help. Glad you were there when I needed you! God bless! diana j. |
User: diana j.
Member since: 10-09-2006 Total posts: 6 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-16-2006, 11:15 PM (8 of 8)
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Basically, to do it right, just slash up the skirt toward the hip and swing the side into the skirt until it is as straight as you want. That is how they get the correct hemline on the skirt and that is how the design the a-line in reverse.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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