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From: DorothyL
Date: 10-14-2006, 11:39 AM (1 of 15)
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Has anyone here seen Nancy Zieman make a collar? She sewed the long edge together but didn't pivot at the points. Then she understitched the seam and went back and sewed from the points to the edge and turned it. She said it prevents it from rolling at the seam in the back so the stitched edge stays just that -- the edge. Sandra Betzina always said just trim the under collar a tiny bit smaller before assembling the collar. That doesn't always work for me. I saw a finished shirt -- out of a silky poly I would guess and you know how that stuff rolls around -- that looked like it was made the Nancy Zieman way and it looked pretty good. I' going to make a coat with a long collar and no lapel and I thought maybe I'd try the Zieman way. Anybody else ever try this? Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 10-14-2006, 02:59 PM (2 of 15)
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I haven't tried it that way, but I think I might like to. The way most people I know do it is to make the under side just a teeny bit shorter that the top side. Somehow they manage to ease it and make it look all the same length when it's sewn up, and then it turns easily and looks very crisp with no topstitching. Me? Like most things, I just keep my nose down and muddle through!
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 10-14-2006, 03:19 PM (3 of 15)
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The last boys shirt I made, I did Nancy's way and it turned out great.. I'm Sold on her method..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 10-14-2006, 03:42 PM (4 of 15)
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I'll let you know how it goes when I get to it Andrea. If Libby likes it, it must be good, right? Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Magot
Date: 10-14-2006, 06:31 PM (5 of 15)
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Can you elaborate what "understitch the seam " means, please? i have an idea but need clarification. Ta. By the long edge I think you mean the outside edge of the coller? Then sew the small bits that go down the side after? After this you use your fabulous new " how to fit collsrs to shirts " method, yes? love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 10-14-2006, 07:12 PM (6 of 15)
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Under stitch -- isn't that the right term? -- like on facing where you sew the seam allowance to the facing close to the seam to help prevent it from rolling to the outside. Yes, the long outside edge of the collar would be done that way and the short parts from the points to the neckline would be sewn after. Except on this coat they go all the way down and become the facings. And, yes, Jan, I will remember to sew from the middle to each edge when I put it on the garment so my collar doesn't get stretched out and uneven. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 10-15-2006, 11:27 AM (7 of 15)
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OOOHH, I like that idea! I just finished putting the collar together on a wool jacket I am making and that would have been way easier than trying to do the understitch after the collar is sewn together! I like Nancy's tips, I have 3 of her books, I must have missed that one. Oh well, next time!
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-15-2006, 04:49 PM (8 of 15)
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Making the undercollar a little smaller is common. In coats and the like the whole collar is often smaller to force the outside collar to roll over. This is something that DOROTHY would like because you can STRETCH the bottom collar just slightly when putting them together.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 10-15-2006, 05:13 PM (9 of 15)
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Just be sure Pam isn't looking!!! That is how I usually do it Pam but I think I am going to try the Nancy Zieman way next time just to see if it works well. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 10-16-2006, 02:21 AM (10 of 15)
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Understitching is one of the techniques that give garments a clean finished custom made look. I also give a lot of wearing comfort as facings will stay inside the garnent and not want to roll to the outside. Look at most ready rtw and you'll see that, if well constructed, the facings will be understitched. Understitching is one of the techniques that is a must for a well finished garment. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: Magot
Date: 10-16-2006, 12:29 PM (11 of 15)
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I think I see how it works now (understitching), I have a blouse to make I'll try it on that. I don't think I have got it right before.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 10-16-2006, 06:21 PM (12 of 15)
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I do mine this way.. It may not be "kosher", but it works for me, and keeps facings inside where they belong.. I do all the clipping and trimming of the seam allowances and then just before tacking the facings to the seams, I do the understitching and I am very careful to catch the trimmed seams in the understitching .. This keeps a clean fold possible and after pressing, It looks very professional.. My friend used to catch some parts of the trimmed seams and not others.. That made for a sloppy look..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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From: mommydionne
Date: 10-19-2006, 12:40 PM (13 of 15)
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hmmm... I'm not sure I get this (I'm a picture person) but I just did a jacket collar on a burda mag pattern and it had you understitch the collar 1st and stitch it with the collar open, stitch the under collar to the garment back, and then stitch the over collar to the facing, then bring together and stitch in the ditch to hold the whole dang thing at the neck line, once I got my head around it, it was ok, looks great now that is it done (of course I marked one notch wrong and had to rip it out once, that's the problem with tracing those magazine patterns, so busy).
Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 10-19-2006, 12:50 PM (14 of 15)
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I think I've done that Jeanette. Aren't you working with a big piece until you get the facing and collar stitched down? Kind of confusing and awkward but it all comes together nice in the end if it is what I'm thinking of. But it was a long time ago and I have an old person's memory sometimes. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: mommydionne
Date: 10-22-2006, 05:06 PM (15 of 15)
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I think we are talking about the same thing, it looks really weird as you are doing it but is ok once done if you don't need a couple of advil
Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838
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