Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: hthegator
Date: 11-09-2006, 08:33 PM (1 of 22)
|
I've been quilting for some time now but I'm new to garmet sewing. If anyone has a tip, please help out. My friend gave me a length of pre-quilted material and asked for a fitted jacket. The print is medium sized and one way. I searched for a pattern and all the quilted jackets are cut straight. The fitted jackets have multiple front and back pieces. So... the delima is: can I alter the straight cut jacket to fit, or would it be easier to try and match up the printed pattern with the multiple front and back pieces? How much extra fabric would I need above what the pattern says (a rough number would help). I suggested adding a belt but my friend would rather not have one. Does anyone know what would happen if I took the quilted jacket and added a tie in the back, like a vest? Or, is there any way to cut the side seams to make them fitted? Someone suggested that I dart the pattern and when it is layed out cut the fabric to match. Would that work? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! |
User: hthegator
Member since: 11-08-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: Patty22
Date: 11-09-2006, 09:03 PM (2 of 22)
|
The early quilted jacket patterns (80's)were not fitted and therefore made the wearer look either like she gained 20 pounds at the midrift OR was part of the marshmallow family (Ghost Busters was big back then). My suggestion would be to use a pattern that is shown for the boucle jackets (princess seams) and to finish off the inside seams with a hong kong finish and no facings, but simply bind the edges. If you do make darts.......serge them down to reduce the bulk. I guess that is the key....reducing bulk in the garment, so make sure the sleeve has a smooth cap and there isn't lots of gathering. But, make sure there is ease at the elbow and the sleeve isn't a tight fit. Although I wouldn't line the jacket I might add some lining to the sleeve just to give the wearer some ease in putting the jacket on. I wouldn't do a belt....as I would "think" it would be too bulky. Just starting to ramble, so maybe someone else could give some more suggestions. Oh, almost forgot - make sure your friend is giving you accurate body measurements. 
Patty
|
User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 11-10-2006, 05:01 PM (3 of 22)
|
I think this friend is asking way , way too much of you.. Is she going to pay you for this agonizing work..???? To me , I would not do it for less than $30.00 Per Hour.. She sounds very demanding , to me... IMHO..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
|
From: paroper
Date: 11-10-2006, 06:20 PM (4 of 22)
|
To make a quilted jacket fitted it will either have darts or seams. Seams are easier to handle, esp in bulky items because you cut away the excess where in darts you often have to leave in it place. Not all patterns have to be matched and matching can cost a lot of fabric which, she may or may not have planned for. Plaids are a pain and they have to be matched. I don't bother with simple patterns. You can look like the kid from "The Christmas Story" if you belt some quilted items. However, you can cut some bulk from the belt by either using a different product for the belt or lining the backside.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: hthegator
Date: 01-08-2007, 03:35 AM (5 of 22)
|
I finished up the quilted jacket without any trouble. I made a test jacket first to work out the bugs and then went for it. Both turned out great. The most tedious part was finishing the seams. Instead of using bias tape I trimmed away all the seam allowances exept one length of fabric, which I rolled over and then stitched the seam flat. A lot of pinning but the results were fantastic. Test Run (http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4362101&a=32353723&p=75181829) Final Jacket (http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4362101&a=32353723&p=75181827) |
User: hthegator
Member since: 11-08-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: PaulineG
Date: 01-08-2007, 05:21 AM (6 of 22)
|
Wow - reading through the post I wasn't expecting anything too exciting. I thought it was going to be a bit unflattering - I really like it. Well done.
Pauline
|
User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 01-08-2007, 07:56 AM (7 of 22)
|
Beautiful! What a great job you did matching the print in front. And it sounds like you came up with a good way of finishing the seams. Do they lay nice and flat for you? Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MaryW
Date: 01-08-2007, 08:45 AM (8 of 22)
|
That is gorgeous. One of the nicest quilted jackets I've seen! You did an excellent job.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
|
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 01-08-2007, 11:51 AM (9 of 22)
|
Beautiful, and the curved seams in front are absolutely perfect.. ! ! Beautiful Job ! !
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
|
From: hthegator
Date: 01-08-2007, 11:55 AM (10 of 22)
|
Thank you for the compliments. I really had a good time putting the jacket together. And, yes, the seams do lay flat. Trimming away the excess gave me enough fabric to roll over; however, my 5/8 inch seam allowance was just little enough, and the curves just sharp enough, that I did have to pin A LOT! I think increasing the seam allowances a little would have been a good move. Experience has taught me something. There was just enough fabric left over to knock together a quilted tote to match the jacket. I unfortunately forgot to take a picture but will post one in the next couple of days when I get a chance to see my friend. Thanks again. (c: |
User: hthegator
Member since: 11-08-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: Pudge99
Date: 01-08-2007, 01:56 PM (11 of 22)
Beautiful jackets! I like the test jacket best . But then I am a bit of a nut. So did you give your friend the test jacket too?
Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures Pfaff 2040 Janome Mylock 134D Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch |
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001 Total posts: 1375 |
From: esrun3
Date: 01-08-2007, 09:36 PM (12 of 22)
|
I love both jackets! What a wonderful job you did on them!!
Lyn
|
User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 01-09-2007, 09:26 PM (13 of 22)
|
All I can say is WOWWEEE, when is mine coming?????
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: mamadus
Date: 01-10-2007, 01:29 AM (14 of 22)
|
can I ask which pattern you ended up using?? MO life is too short, not to explore
|
User: mamadus
Member since: 12-31-2004 Total posts: 492 
|
From: NDNQuilter
Date: 01-10-2007, 06:09 AM (15 of 22)
| Beautiful! You did a great job. Gena |
User: NDNQuilter
Member since: 10-04-2002 Total posts: 90 |
From: Quilter71
Date: 01-15-2007, 11:40 PM (16 of 22)
|
I usually don't like to use the word "ditto", but everyone seems to have taken the words right outta my mouth......lol. I hope your friend appreciates all the work you put into, even though you had fun and learned some things along the way. BEAUTIFUL Michelle
|
User: Quilter71
Member since: 01-08-2007 Total posts: 13 |
From: hthegator
Date: 01-19-2007, 03:56 PM (17 of 22)
|
Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to take a picture of the matching tote, but I will be doing that tomorrow. For now, these are the patterns that I used for this project: Because I had no experience with this type of project, I bought three or four different jacket patterns and made a few muslin mock-ups to see what I liked and didn't like about them. I made a mock-up of a simple Butterick pattern but it was too baggy and not fitting at all. Then I did a McCall's, (which is the one that my friend liked best but was a little more complicated). The McCall's fitted pattern worked great and looked nice, except you couldn't lift your arms up very far. I wasn’t sure how to fix the arm problem, (I still am not too sure), but I noticed how the pattern was cut compared to the Butterick pattern. The Butterick sleeve was straight while the McCall’s had this weird bend in the armpit. Being an experimenter, I just removed the sleeves from the Butterick mock-up and attached them to the McCall’s, and it worked. So, in the end I used McCall’s 5060, style A, size 20 for the body, and the sleeves were Butterick 4353, Style D, Size XLG. The matching tote was adapted from a Vogue accessories pattern: 7755, style A. (Picture will be posted soon). So, that's it. Now it's off to work on another project. (c: Thanks for all your help and encouragement! |
User: hthegator
Member since: 11-08-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: MissTaraTara
Date: 01-19-2007, 04:11 PM (18 of 22)
| Chiming in a little late here but that is really a great jacket. I love the print and the seams are perfect. Super Super job! |
User: MissTaraTara
Member since: 01-24-2006 Total posts: 227 |
From: hthegator
Date: 01-23-2007, 08:46 PM (19 of 22)
|
As promised... (finally) here are a few pictures of the mathing tote. My friend saw a Simplicy pattern that she liked. It was of a quilted bag with a band of contratsting fabric at the top and bottom and handles that ran from bottom to top, also of contrasting fabirc. However, my friend wanted her bag to be more trapezoidal that that pattern was, so I used a Vogue pattern that I had on hand and just adapted it to fit. The original Vogue design used a solid piece of fabric and its handles attached at the top only. So... here it is and links to the other photos that accompany it. Thanks again for all your help and praise. Happy Sewing. Prototype Jacket. (http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4362101&a=32353723&p=75181829&f=0) Finished Jacket modeled by me. (http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4362101&a=32353723&p=75181827&f=0) Matching tote. (http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4362101&a=32353723&p=75235823&f=0) My friend with her tote and jacket. (http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4362101&a=32353723&p=75235824&f=0) Tote with jacket. (http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4362101&a=32353723&p=75235825&f=0) |
User: hthegator
Member since: 11-08-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 01-23-2007, 10:42 PM (20 of 22)
|
Just beautiful. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MissTaraTara
Date: 01-24-2007, 06:58 PM (21 of 22)
| What a great job on the coat and bag. I am really loving the color you chose and how you placed them on the tote. The jacket fits her very well and it looks great with jeans! |
User: MissTaraTara
Member since: 01-24-2006 Total posts: 227 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 01-25-2007, 10:15 AM (22 of 22)
|
Wow! I'm thinking that is one of the most beautiful quilted coats ever, and I love how you did the tote. Great job!!!
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-20688.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft