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From: blackie
Date: 11-14-2006, 12:34 AM (1 of 18)
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Argh... I'm fit to be tied. I just made two longsleeved t-shirts for my kids, from Ottobre 04/2004 (pattern #35) and although they turned out well enough, and the cut and size are perfect, I am really struggling with this knit sewing. Scratch that: the ribbing is the main problem. First off, the ribbing pieces as cut were way longer than the tee neckline. Then I realized I had added seam allowances to the neckline, which you are NOT supposed to do. OK, so I trimmed them off. Even allowing a larger neckline, the ribbing seems a bit longer than the neckline edge. Oof. So length problems aside, I can't figure out how to do a professional-looking ribbing. The best method I've lighted on was from an old Stretch N Sew pattern. I cut the binding out to the proper length (either according to pattern or about [ neckline - 1" or 2"] depending on fabric, etc) and 2.5 inches wide. Then I sew RS together, flip the raw edge over, topstitch, and trim the excess from the inside. Kind of a Hong-Kong finish. It works OK but I long for a beautiful, professional-looking ribbing neckline! Of course I notice a lot of RTW neckline binding on t-shirts is atrocious. The pattern pieces in the mag indicate a double binding (you know, the rectangle for the binding has three dotted lines and is divided in quarters). Anyone had success sewing that way and how did you do it? If you can help me with my ribbing problems you are my hero! Kelly (I cross-posted this to my Yahoo Ottobre (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ottobre-english/) group) see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: kmccrea
Date: 11-14-2006, 01:52 AM (2 of 18)
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A professional finish on t-shirts or other knit garments requires that you ease the neckline into the ribbing. If you have a serger, you can use the differential feed and it finishes the seam too. If not, then a regular foot (even feed foot will not work in this case) and lightly placing your finger behind the foot to "bunch" up the fabric works just as well. Here's what I do and it works wonderfully. Cut the ribbing on the crosswise grain (where the stretch is) twice the finished width plus 2 seam allowances. Yes, you do need a seam allowance on the neckline and cuff edges otherwise it will not fit and look horrible. I usually use 1/2 inch seam allowances. So, if you want your ribbing on the neckline to be 1 inch then cut your fabric 3 inches wide. (2 x 1) + (2 x .5) = 3. Measure your sleeve or neckline and cut the ribbing 1 inch smaller plus 2 seam allowances (if you want it really snug, 2 inches smaller). Cut the ends on the bias to reduce bulk, sew the ends together like you are pieceing bias binding together. Fold and press the ribbing in half, right sides out. Place your ribbing on the right side of your garment, pin if you must. I always match the seam at a shoulder seam rather than center back like the instructions say because RTW does the same thing and there is no ugly little dimple on the back of your shirt. For cuffs, I match the seams at the under arm. Now, regardless of which machine you use you MUST place the body of the garment on the machine bed. Try not to stretch the knit (some stretching will occur), rather let the feed dogs ease the garment opening onto your ribbing as you are sewing. Take your time, this is not a rush job. Now, the really important part. After sewing the ribbing on to the garment, take it to the iron. Before pressing it, steam the heck out of it! Hold the iron just above your work, as you are blasting the steam. That will take care of any incidental stretching. Now, at a temperature appropiate for your fabric, press the ribbing flat. Using the tip of your iron move the ribbing up, making sure the seam allowances are pressed toward the garment body. Press hard and for a few seconds before moving on to the next section. When you are done with the pressing you can take your work back to the sewing machine and top stitch the shirt about 1/4 inch below the seam of the neckline or cuff if you want a casual t shirt look and to keep the ribbing in place. For a more formal or designer look, stitch in the well of the seam. Either way, don't stretch! If you should stretch the knit a little then go back to the ironing board and steam your opening again to make the knit return to it's original length. I hope this helps, Katherine Katherine McCrea
Designer At Large |
User: kmccrea
Member since: 05-07-2006 Total posts: 173 
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From: blackie
Date: 11-14-2006, 11:22 AM (3 of 18)
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Thank you Katherine - this makes sense. Except it seems very bulky to have essentially five layers on the neckline - four from the binding and one layer of t-shirt fabric. But it's only one more layer than what I have now, so. I do steam my neckline bindings and I remember the S-N-S pattern also had you sew with the body of the garment on the machine. Thanks for the reminders. One other question. The neckline has to fit over my children's heads. How do I check for this? You can't just slide the binding piece (once it's been sewn) together because it is more stretchy than it eventualy will be when it is stitched down. Any guidelines on that? It would be a shame to put a neckline in and have it not fit. see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: Sewlite
Date: 11-14-2006, 11:27 AM (4 of 18)
Theres an article on Threads magazine with a video on how to do this.You need real player too.A great visual to see.
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User: Sewlite
Member since: 04-04-2001 Total posts: 37 |
From: blackie
Date: 11-14-2006, 07:08 PM (5 of 18)
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Sewlite - thanks for the info. I went to the site (http://www.taunton.com/threads/) and couldn't find the video. Ideas?
see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: Miss Spring
Date: 11-14-2006, 07:35 PM (6 of 18)
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I cant give you any advice...LOL Im looking for the dummys guide to the perfect t-shirt. I have made 3 t-shirts 1) neck ribbing was wayyyyy to big and saged when t-shirt was done. 2) the neck ribbing was wayyyy to tight and the kid couldnt get the darn thing over his fat little head...lol 2) once again tooo big and saggy. Im soaking up all the advice your getting. Good Luck 
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User: Miss Spring
Member since: 05-03-2006 Total posts: 87 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 11-14-2006, 11:16 PM (7 of 18)
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Well many many moons ago, I took a stretch sewing course and made quite a few t-shirts. The patterns would say to cut the ribbing smaller than the neckline (same as kmccrea said). But to sew the ribbing in the neck we were shown to fold the ribbing into quarters and mark the quarters with pins. Then we were to fold the neckline into quarters and mark with pins. Then you pin the ribbing to the neckline matching at the pins. When I have large openings, I usually divide into eights instead of quarters as it spreads out the ribbing better. To sew I would just use a regular straight stitch and stretch the two pieces as they are sewn. This makes it easier to get the ribbing to fit in the neckline. Also, I usually have to stretch enough so that the stitches won't break when it is pulled over the head. After sewing we were always told to press the seam using a wet cloth. By pressing, I mean just place the iron down on the cloth, then lift and set down on the next place. This is to help set the seam. As I said this was many years ago and I had just purchased a machine that had a stretch stitch but it was a zig zag type stitch. This method was used by any one who did not have a stretch stitch on their machine. But I still use this method today when I sew on knits and rarely have problems. Believe it or not, I have multiple stretch stitches on my machine but I still use a straight stitch when I sew on knits. TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 11-15-2006, 08:35 AM (8 of 18)
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I haven't made a knit t-shirt in so long I can hardly remember. But when the kids were little I made them Judy's way on a treadle machine and they came out good, so it can be done. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: mommydionne
Date: 11-15-2006, 03:57 PM (9 of 18)
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When I do Tshirts... I bind tshirt necklines with all kinds of stuff... self fabric, foldover elastic, ribbing, other knits, lycra binding (wazoodle sells it) My basic method for ribbing or another knit edge: I measure my binding to be "about" 3/4 of the measured neckline edge, less if my binding is very stretchy and more if not so stretchy. I sew my binding in a nice circle  and then call the kid in question and try it on their head before I sew it on.I mark it in 1/4's, then move the 2 side pins about 0.5 to1cm (on each side) back towards the centre back (I usually place my seam at centre back, helps the kids put their shirts on the right way), therefore making the front neck edge a little longer. It is doubled at this point so you will be sewing through 3 layers (2 binding and one garment) I usually sew my first line of sewing on the machine with a narrow zig zag, (with the garment side down and the ribbing in my grubby paw) stretching binding to fit my neckline. I do this on the flat bed (not the free arm b/c I can control the stretch better, you may prefer your free arm) DO NOT STRETCH YOUR GARMENTS NECKLINE, or you may cry when done 'cause it will ripple like nuts. Then I often serge the edge on the free arm. I don't usually topstitch, I just press and steam well letting every thing cool prior to moving. Jalie has a neat method on their basic tshirt pattern using self fabric but I don't think it would work well on heavy fabrics. Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
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From: Sewlite
Date: 11-15-2006, 04:14 PM (10 of 18)
Sewlite - thanks for the info. I went to the site (http://www.taunton.com/threads/) and couldn't find the video. Ideas?When your in the threads site,look to the left side and scroll down to video tips,click on that and then its about the 6th tip down Neckline for T's. 
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User: Sewlite
Member since: 04-04-2001 Total posts: 37 |
From: kmccrea
Date: 11-16-2006, 07:31 AM (11 of 18)
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Knits have a little bit of stretch, which is what you want. But, you do need to make sure both the neckline and ribbing will fit over the garment wearer's head with minimal stretch. So regardless of what the instructions say and the pattern measurements are, measure the wearer's head and make the neckline about .5" to 1" smaller. A good quality knit will withstand that much stretch and recover nicely. Don't worry about it laying correctly on the neck and shoulders, it will. Larger heads usually mean larger necks and that makes the shirt more comfortable for the wearer. I make my t-shirts with a scoop neck because I cannot stand where the regular t-shirt necklines land. Okay, it's my own little phobia, but I feel as if I'm going to choke. A henly opening might be a better solution for children, if you're up to putting a simple placket on a t-shirt. Good Luck! Kate Katherine McCrea
Designer At Large |
User: kmccrea
Member since: 05-07-2006 Total posts: 173
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From: kmccrea
Date: 11-16-2006, 07:34 AM (12 of 18)
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Thank you Katherine - this makes sense. Except it seems very bulky to have essentially five layers on the neckline - four from the binding and one layer of t-shirt fabric. But it's only one more layer than what I have now, so. I do steam my neckline bindings and I remember the S-N-S pattern also had you sew with the body of the garment on the machine. Thanks for the reminders. One other question. The neckline has to fit over my children's heads. How do I check for this? You can't just slide the binding piece (once it's been sewn) together because it is more stretchy than it eventualy will be when it is stitched down. Any guidelines on that? It would be a shame to put a neckline in and have it not fit. There are only 3 layers, 2 from the binding and one from the neckline. The only place where it can get bulky is where you seam the ribbing to form your circle. Katherine McCrea
Designer At Large |
User: kmccrea
Member since: 05-07-2006 Total posts: 173
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From: blackie
Date: 11-16-2006, 11:23 AM (13 of 18)
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A henly opening might be a better solution for children, if you're up to putting a simple placket on a t-shirt. Good Luck! Kate I would love to try a henley opening. I have never sewn buttonholes on a t-shirt before. My Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing probably has instructions. If you have any tips I would appreciate them. I love trying new things and my children's clothes are a great place to experiment. I am already getting confused because there have been a few methods outlined here, with conflicting instructions! Stretch the neckline, don't stretch the neckline. I haven't had any rippling problems with my method, which involves stretching. So far. There are only 3 layers, 2 from the binding and one from the neckline. The only place where it can get bulky is where you seam the ribbing to form your circle. OK. Now I am really confused. Isn't the binding like a double-fold binding? So essentially there are four "layers' in it? I should have stopped reading this thread a few replies ago! 
see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 11-21-2006, 06:13 PM (14 of 18)
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Blackie, Do you have a serging stitch on your machine.. I assume you do Not have a serger.. The perfect way to add the ribbing to a T-shirt neckline according to P & P serging "Bible" that I have.. (ancient) Cut length 3/4 the measure of the seamline measurement of the neck opening. Sew short ends together RST. Turn, fold in half.. Mark in quarters with pins.. Mark the neckline also in quarters.. Pin ribbing to garment, and serge, stretching as you go between pins.. If this is done on a serger, it is trimmed and finished as you go.. Special note, if the ribbing is very, very stretchy, use only a 2/3 measure instead of 3/4... I have made more than a hundred t-shirts on my serger, maybe closer to 200, and that is how I have always done them..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: blackie
Date: 11-21-2006, 08:33 PM (15 of 18)
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Hi Libby, I do in fact have a serger. So can I do this with my 3 thread 1-needle setup I currently have on the machine? And I should use a ballpoint needle, right? So the width of the binding strip should be 2 times my desired finished width, plus two seam allowances, right? see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: PaulineG
Date: 11-22-2006, 01:02 AM (16 of 18)
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I am an absolute beginning sewer but have had heaps of success with Kwik Sew patterns (particularly the books they do). They seem to be just about bulletproof and have terrific instructions for know nothings like me. I've now made many stretch items for my family with only one sagging neckline (my fault). Best of luck, Pauline Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: Sewlite
Date: 11-22-2006, 10:31 AM (17 of 18)
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Heres the link to sewing binding etc in T'shirts. http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvo44.asp Plus one for sewing turtlennecks.Real player needed or quick time.Good luck. |
User: Sewlite
Member since: 04-04-2001 Total posts: 37 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 11-22-2006, 08:30 PM (18 of 18)
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Blackie, (and anyone else interested) The instructions I gave were for a neckline ribbing just like any traditional tee.. A bound neckline is something totally different. I have that pretty satiny looking elastic with the picot edge in narrow widths that I use for those shirts with a pretty neckline I have several colors and I just make sure I buy the color fabric I need, because I cannot find any more of that type of elastic.. I bought this at a warehouse sale here in town.. Our industrial district used to have great sales. Charlotte used to be 2nd only to Chicago in being a trucking hub in the US.. I don't know if we still are or not.. I just know I never see those sales anymore.. That is what got me started with the knits and making tees.. I bought yards and yards of 60 inch wide great quality knits for $ 1.00 per yard back in the good old days.. 1990's at warehouse sales..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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