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The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
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From: LegalDealer
Date: 11-16-2006, 01:45 PM (1 of 4)
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Okay, I need some advice. I am thankful that I have wonderful people like you to ask! Question 1: Why when I just downloaded some designs from OESD (I purchased single designs to try the whole process out) some downloaded with color and colored in the project, and others downloaded with one black outline? When I go to stich the "outline" one out will I get what I see? Am I able to use my Janome Customizer 10000 Plus software to put stiches in the outline areas? So far, I have not been able to manipulate any preloaded designs from my software with my software. Question 2: Why do some of my embroidery designs have what seems to me random stiches outlining the actual embroidery stiching? Is the design of poor quality (these are from a complimentary CD from Janome) or am I supposed to take the seam ripper to them? This is what I am talking about: Imagine a nice leaf design, one that isn't stiched completely on the inside but does has some embroidered veins, and inbetween those veins are stiches that kinda circle the inside of the vein and has an X in the middle of that. Does this make sense? I tried manipulating those stiches off the design with that software that I have, but haven't found a magic button yet! Thank you in advance, I really appreciate your help. Bonny |
User: LegalDealer
Member since: 10-19-2006 Total posts: 27 
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From: Chrysantha
Date: 11-16-2006, 08:05 PM (2 of 4)
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First off, in order for you to 're-design' designs in your software, it has to be saved in a .jan file. .jan is what Janome uses to 'start' it's designs BEFORE they're used as complete .jef files for embroidery in your machine. I use M A N Y OESD designs. What you have to realize is, OESD is Bernina (Art) and they design for them and convert to .jef for you. Not all of their designs are 'correct'. Some of the stitching you see is 'underlayment' and some is 'direction'. (underlayment is usually wide spaced zig-zag) dots and +'s can be direction for the designs, so that the arm will come BACK to do that section. Designs are not always digitized in 'order'...one section may be done or 1/2 done and the arm will move to another section. it all depends on the digitizer. (digitizing with NO jump stitches is MOST desired and hardest to achieve) Outlining 'should' be as close to the design as possible. But a lot of that depends on YOU, if you've stabilized correctly, hooped properly, is your hoop supported. Did you re-size the design. Sometimes the designs cannot be re-sized, it throws all the stitching OFF line. Trying to take out or add stitches to a downloaded design is next to impossible, unless you know what digitizing software was used in the first place and you have the exact thing in your home. If you're using flashcards, make sure they're formatted first in the machine before using. If using your USB directly to the machine, be aware that downloading and uploading can only be done so many times in one machine. (the computer in it has a limited lifespan, thats why you have options.) Also make sure you have all the 'updates' to your software. (www.janome.com software updates left hand column) Chrys
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User: Chrysantha
Member since: 09-06-2002 Total posts: 2414 
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From: paroper
Date: 11-16-2006, 10:40 PM (3 of 4)
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OESD is one of the largest commercial digitizers around...that means that they sell their designs to commercial companies who use them in their designs. Most of their designs are very well done. However, the fabric has to be properly stabilized. the stabilizer must be drum head tight...no flop at all. It may seem absolutely so obvious but the fabric should be hooped so that the hooped stabilzier rides on the machine. Once in a while you run across someone who has hooped for hand work that put the fabric at the top of the hoops. You need to STABILIZER, not interfacing. By now, if you have been stabilizing tightly, you know that interfacing seldom works. My dealer recommends that you use two layers of stabilizer. I use a lot of OESD products and had all kinds of problems until I started using two layers of hooped stabilizer. You are stabilizing the fabric, not the design. In turn, the design is also more stable. Only the stabilizer that is hooped will hold the fabric tight. What normally is the problem? The stabilizer is either not heavy enough or is not hooped tightly, as a result, the motion of the needle plus the pressure applied during the embroidery process pulls the fabric inward toward the center of the design....which the loose stabilizer allows. While you are doing thicker portions of the design which stitch over each other you do not notice a problem. However, when you go to do a thin outline, you find that the outline is (usually) beyond the edges of the design. Usually, it is in place in some places, and off in others, esp. areas of bias grain of the fabric. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-17-2006, 10:13 AM (4 of 4)
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By the way, OESD has a fantastic help desk. If you have problems with any design, call them. They'll check it and make sure that the problem is not with the design. They are fantastic!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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