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From: PaulineG
Date: 11-20-2006, 03:18 PM (1 of 25)
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I posted the following stuff in my introductory post but don't know that it was the best place to put it. So here it is. I've finally gotten the motivation to post to try and find out about a product you guys can get (I think) that is not available here. Its marketed on the net as stretch binding. That product is not available here (I'm in Australia and we only have bias binding and a very narrow satin stretch binding). Am I correct in thinking this is the stuff that appears to be made of ribbing and applied around the neckline and armholes of things like tank tops. I've been doing what is sometimes called chanel trim (in the books I've got) but with variable success. I can get an okay result if I make my own binding from rib or self fabric but I need more practice at cutting straight lines (mine always go wobbly) and I end up with uneven trim. I did buy a product to help me make my own bias tape but I seem to lack a hand (you need three - one to hold the whatyoumacallit, one to pull the fabric through and one to hold the iron to press the fabric as it comes through). I've also looked at a few articles on how to make continuous bias tape (woven fabrics) where you roll a tube and cut diagonals and will try that one day when I'm feeling brave. Is this ready made stretch binding any good? Or more to the point - worth the money? Or am I better off to persevere with other binding techniques? 
Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-20-2006, 07:34 PM (2 of 25)
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The continuous binding is soooo easy! You just cut a diagonal rectangle (correct name escapes me....maybe parallelogram or trapizoid). Any way, it is a box whose sides are 45 degrees and whose ends are on the cross grain of the fabric (can also be the lengthwise grain). It looks like a rectangle that you pulled sideways 45 degrees. After you make your box, you just offset your straight of grain ends by the width of your binding and sew the box together. Then you just cut the box beginning at the offset and using that as your guide. When you are through you'll have a long continuous bias strip. It is wonderful for a host of uses. I did several yards of this, cut it very wide, folded in half and then inside (half again), making a 1 inch satin bias strip to use on my daughter's NON-wedding veil. I haven't had an occasion to use the stretch binding (sorry about that). pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Chrysantha
Date: 11-20-2006, 09:33 PM (3 of 25)
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I think I know what you want..it looks like a TUBE TOP (womans braless summer top). It's used as a binding, cuffs, and necklines. It usually comes on a bolt like regular fabric, only it's a tube. (no packets like regular binding. Theres also the STRETCH LACE binding. Which looks like regular lace, but it's polyester stretch. When you use your Clover Bias maker (and I'm assuming thats the one you have.) You start with your fabric (cut on the bias..it's easier to cut with a rotary cutter than scissors, on a mat, like you'd do for quilting), pull a bit through the binder and leave it hang, then start your ironing. I always keep the iron on a med setting, leave it SIT on the ironing board ( I have a flame proof/scortch proof cover)and pull the fabric through the binder with both hands...they also have the iron -in- tape that makes the binding sticky (or stuck to itself). Makes no difference if you buy or make your own binding...it's still fabric you have to have and making your own takes more fabric, because you always have to cut on the bias (diagonally) unless it's already stretchy. I hope all this makes sense...I have a hard time explaining things to people...it's always easier to show them..but OZ is a long way away from here.. 
Chrys
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User: Chrysantha
Member since: 09-06-2002 Total posts: 2414 
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From: PaulineG
Date: 11-20-2006, 09:45 PM (4 of 25)
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Unfortunately I don't own either a mat or rotary cutters - they are on the list of "some day". At the moment I cut on the floor and use the grouting between my ceramic tiles to try and keep a straight line. Haven't yet tried quilting (did some hand patchwork when younger) - I'm sure I will one day just because I love fabric so much. Maybe they'll have to move up the list a bit. Thanks, Pauline Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 11-21-2006, 05:49 PM (5 of 25)
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I made that continuous binding for some placemats I made last year (I think it was last year), and I loved that method.. It was hard to get it together right, but after I pressed it (after sewing the seam) the cutting was a breeze.. I made enough for all 6 placemats, and that was great.. I read later that you start the first cut before you sew the seam, and I believe that makes it go smoother or at least I understood it better that way.. It sure seemed easier that way..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: woodywoodpecker
Date: 11-21-2006, 07:21 PM (6 of 25)
I think the "stretch binding" you are referring to would be like bias tape only it's made from stretch material. I have used swim suit material for this and it works well. The only trouble I remember having with it was getting the needle to to sew it some times , so I switched to a jeans needle( I was kind of frustrated) and it worked great.In regards to using the bias tape maker(needing 3 hands) once I get mine started and iron the first bit of bias tape, I pin it to the ironing board and then continue on pulling the bias tape maker down the fabric strip and ironing as I go and re-pin as necessary. |
User: woodywoodpecker
Member since: 11-07-2003 Total posts: 242 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-21-2006, 07:41 PM (7 of 25)
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That is what I am thinking too, Woody. It is the type of thing that you see on a lot of purchased knit tops.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 11-21-2006, 08:20 PM (8 of 25)
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Pam, I am really trying hard to get what you said about the continuous bias binding, but what is the offset?
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: woodywoodpecker
Date: 11-22-2006, 12:49 AM (9 of 25)
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There are some pictures here. http://pir8.freeservers.com/quilting/CBT/index.htm#yardage%20requirements I had to cut and paste to get this link to work, don't know what I did wrong. 
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User: woodywoodpecker
Member since: 11-07-2003 Total posts: 242 |
From: PaulineG
Date: 11-22-2006, 12:57 AM (10 of 25)
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Fantastic visual aids - I have seen similar before but nothing that was as clear as this. Will definitely give this a go, although the lazy part of me still likes the idea of ready made. Thanks, Pauline Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: westbrook
Date: 11-22-2006, 02:18 PM (11 of 25)
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Knit binding... get a huge piece of cardboard, enough to cover your dining or kitchen table... get up off the floor! it is not easy to cut on hands and knees. use a ruler and a chalk marker to make straight lines. The problem I have with using 'Ribbing' (thicker tube knit) is I can never find a color that matches what I am making. I always use the same fabric I am making my top out of. Cut on the straight grain not on the bias.. knit already stretches enough, don't need it streatching more. To measure the opening I set the tape measure on its edge and 'walk' it around the opening. If using the same fabric and the opening is 20-inches it would be 20 / 4 = 5 x 3 =15-inches needed If ribbing is used, measure 2/3 of the neck opening 20 / 3 = 6-2/3 x 2 = 13-1/2 You should be able to get ribbing fairly easily by calling around to fabric stores and inquiring. Many of the ladies will refer you to stores that carry it. |
User: westbrook
Member since: 12-13-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-22-2006, 06:04 PM (12 of 25)
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Laura, you move your seam over when you sew up the ends so that there is a space the width of the binding you are trying to create...so if you needed 2 inches, it would be 2 inches offset on each end of the seam. Then you cut around and around 2 inches wide all the way through the binding.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sancin
Date: 11-23-2006, 04:17 AM (13 of 25)
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Hi all - I also think Pauline is looking for lycra/stretch fabric that is used in bathing and sporting garments. It is cut in strips (sometimes can purchase in a roll) and then used for binding on fabric - most frequently on fleece or other stretch garments. The binding curls as you stretch slightly when applying one side and as it doesn't ravel you doesn't need to fold the binding, just stitch in the ditch on the other side. You don't need to cut on the bias. Nice clean edges. Biggest problem is getting matching colours, but as lycra fabric comes in bright and often patterned or stripped design you can get interesting binding. Regarding continuous binding. I did this for many years but always found that my cutting left me with some wider and some narrower sections d/t the connecting seams and my scissor cutting technique, I believe. Ever since I have had a rotary mat and cutter I find it just as quick and more accurate to use a long ruler, draw through the diagonal and continue to draw to the edge of the fabric then cut out and sew the pieces together. To each his own, I suspect. 
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
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From: PaulineG
Date: 11-23-2006, 06:11 AM (14 of 25)
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Nancy - you've hit the jackpot about what I'm looking for but it apparently isn't available (except commercially) in Australia - I live in hope. While I really like the idea of cutting continuous binding I have enough problems cutting a straight strip of ribbing (I must get that mat and cutters) so I'll probably hold off a bit longer on giving it a try. BTW does anybody out there have an opinion on what sort of rotary cutters would be best - we appear to have Olfa and Clover brands available but not much else - and also what size would most suit my usage (I don't quilt - at the moment anyway). I would probably use them mostly for cutting narrow strips (as above) and I saw something in one of the forums about how somebody uses them to cut around patterns which sounded to me like a pretty good idea. Can I also say - I LOVE this site and the people on here - I really don't have anybody close by who shares my sewing enthusiasm so it's very nice to be able to indulge myself discussing sewing without boring others! Thanks, Pauline Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: MaryW
Date: 11-23-2006, 08:06 AM (15 of 25)
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Welcome Pauline. You will never bore us with sewing chat. I use Olfa rotary cutter with great results. This was for cutting strips of cotton.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 11-23-2006, 08:38 AM (16 of 25)
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I'm one of those that use a rotary cutter to cut patterns. I don't think brand matters much. I use a 45mm cutter most of the time. I have a small one I use for very small work -- doll clothes and such. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: karen v
Date: 11-23-2006, 10:56 AM (17 of 25)
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Hi I make lots of knit clothing. One can buy something called "ribbing", which is mostly sold in a narrow tube. It usually has 100% stretch, although it sometimes varies. The best kind to buy is with lycra or elastane as you call it down under. Without lycra, the recovery of the knit is more spotty and your bound edge can sag with time. My experience with this is that it's almost impossible to "match" your garment unless the ribbing is dyed to match. You can bind the edge of a knit with almost any other knit or even the knit itself. You just have to experiment on a dummy neckline to see what length or ratio of binding to neckline is best. You can add a piece of clear elastic in there to help the seam hold its shape. Sometimes I apply the knit like a neckband--if you cut it narrow enough and topstitch it, it's close enough to a binding "look" and is much easier to apply. The main thing is to get several types of knits and practice practice practice. The more you do it the better able to judge the binding lengths you will be. Another thing is to just baste it on and then check the fit-- easy to rip out. HTH Karen V ps I just cut out a knit on the bias for a yoke for lounge pants for my daughter and from what I see, a knit cut on the bias seems to have no recovery whatsoever. all art is lies that help us see the truth
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User: karen v
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 31 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-23-2006, 10:56 AM (18 of 25)
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The beauty of this method is that you only have one seam...not hundreds that you have to flip around and around and try to figure how the silly thing is to join. You sew one seam, cut and you are ready to press or apply, depending upon the application....and it can be a very long piece.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sancin
Date: 11-23-2006, 07:16 PM (19 of 25)
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Pauline - Are there shops where you can buy lycra / stretch fabric to make bathing suits or something like dance costumes? If you can find such fabric you should buy the minumum yardage amount they will sell (or whatever amount you need - usually very wide fabric) and cut it yourself into the widths you want. As Karen says - on the line of most stretch, not bias. I can find bathing suit material here in Canada occasionally in regular fabric shops but often have to go on line to find a 'stretch and sew' type of on line store. I guess it depends on how large a centre you are near. For many years here in Canada I couldn't get any at all. I also do not notice any difference between cutter brands, but when you get one get an extra blade. The blades seem to go dull all at once! I use a mid size (45mm?) one most of the time for everything. I rarely use the small one that Dorothy mentions and only use my big one on fleece fabrics or heavy wool. *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 11-24-2006, 05:27 PM (20 of 25)
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That was a great link, Woody. It's one of those leap of faith techniques, until you see how it worked in the end. As for that little metal bias tape "maker," I have it too, and struggled with it. For short lengths, it's fine. I found if I held it upside down it worked better--the open sides of the folds are face-down that way, and I can get the iron on top of them before they pop apart on me. Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: ricstew
Date: 11-25-2006, 03:03 AM (21 of 25)
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Have you tried fold over elastic? It can be bought at any stretch fabric place...........sew one side fold it over and sew the other.........I think..........also I have seen it on Ebay .au here is a link ( i hope it works!) for a Threads video on neck binding for knits click here (http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvt044.asp) cheers Jan |
User: ricstew
Member since: 06-29-2006 Total posts: 18 |
From: PaulineG
Date: 11-28-2006, 04:59 AM (22 of 25)
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Thanks Jan, The method used in this video is the one I usually use (although her technique is a bit more practised than mine). What I've been looking for was something similar to bias tape but made out of knit or ribbing (in other words precut and folded (finished edges would have been nice too). There are a number of products in the US and elsewhere (like your foldover elastic) that are fairly close to what I'm after but I can't find any here in OZ. I've just bitten the bullet and got myself a rotary cutter and quilting ruler so I can do an easier and better job on the bindings I make myself. It also means I get to choose colours etc. for myself.  Cheers, Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: ricstew
Date: 11-30-2006, 11:14 PM (23 of 25)
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It is really hard to find things in Oz sometimes! Sewing doesnt seem to be such a big thing here any more unless you quilt ( I had a go but didnt like it!) But I have discovered that I can order from the US and the prices are great and the service has been too! Practice with the rotary cutter! They do a great job.....but measure carefully! I cut most things with mine ! Oh and put some sandpaper dots on the bottom of the ruler so it doesnt slip all over the place! cheers Jan |
User: ricstew
Member since: 06-29-2006 Total posts: 18 |
From: PaulineG
Date: 12-01-2006, 06:05 AM (24 of 25)
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Thanks - I have had some teething problems with the rotary cutter but hope to resolve them soon. See other post. Is there a particular online shop you use? I have considered online shopping but usually like to see and touch what I'm buying. The exception to this is patterns which I'll often buy on ebay - I'm sometimes not sure if I'm really into sewing or just purchasing patterns and fabric (not game to buy fabric online though). Notions should be okay though and online shopping would probably remove some of the impulse buys that I get when I go to Spotlight (OZ fabric shop). Pauline Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: ricstew
Date: 12-01-2006, 05:45 PM (25 of 25)
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A mat is a must! Mine is 24" x 18". I find it big enough for everything. A really big one would be nice but hard to store and expensive! I have ordered from here http://www.fabric.com/ http://www.farmhousefabrics.com/ the second is mostly heirloom stuff but has beautiful silks and lace! If you are buying basics its great cause you know the weight and feel of the fabrics.........but for special stuff the touchy feely thing in a shop is the way to go! My nearest spotlight is a couple of hours away so I rarely get to shop there. I also love to buy from vinnies! and Ebay.........tho ebay can be a gamble! I am making jeans shorts out of Vinnies fabric! A heavy canvas weight something in dark olive/brown........cost 50 cents ( new fabric ) for about 2 metres.......so cheap as chips! cheers Jan |
User: ricstew
Member since: 06-29-2006 Total posts: 18 |
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