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From: nannylin
Date: 12-02-2006, 08:09 AM (1 of 8)
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Does anyone have any suggestions of dealing with the thick part of designs? For example, the one I am working on now has many flowers. They start out one color, then you add two more shades to them, then finally centers. By the time I get to the third layer, the thread frequently breaks or shreds. I love my Madeira thread and this never happens in the course of regular embroidery--just the "piled up" parts. The fabric is muslin. I am using cut-away in the hoop and solvy on top. I change to a new needle before attempting the flowers. Any ideas? Thanks, Linda |
User: nannylin
Member since: 02-27-2006 Total posts: 47 
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From: Tom Land
Date: 12-02-2006, 09:18 AM (2 of 8)
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Linda try a smaller needle. Also make sure you are using an embroidery needle. You can also use a thread lubricant like lub-a-thread. If all else fails you can open up the density of the design a little.
Have fun or don't do it, Tom
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User: Tom Land
Member since: 09-21-2005 Total posts: 514 |
From: paroper
Date: 12-02-2006, 09:24 AM (3 of 8)
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Well, first thing is that I wouldn't use a tear away. I know a lot of people love it but it isn't my favorite stabilizer. I do, however use it in some cases, just not as often as a lot of others. I have a reason. Tear away is meant to perforate and fall away from the design as you work. By the time you are finished (if you are lucky and you still have an attached design), there just isn't much left to tear away. This is not only happening OUTSIDE the edges of your design, but it is also happening inside your design where the stitches are much more concentrated. By the time you are finished with a really dense design, there isn't any support left inside the design. With all those hundreds (thousands) of perforations, the tear away is kaput. So..I prefer a good cut away for dense designs. I've found that even 2 layers of polymesh on a really dense design on a t-shirt can cause it to pyramid when it is finished so if my design is VERY dense I'll sometimes use a heavier weight stabilzier. Always remember that the stabilizer keeps the fabric from drawing...it doesn't directly have all that much to do with your designs, although all things work together to make a good product. The relationship to the design is in keeping it from pulling the fabric back into itself but if the fabric is properly stabilized, the fabric won't pull...however, if the stabilizer pulls away before the product is finished, all bets are off. I would suggest that you try a #14 needle to penetrate your designs, and slow your machine. I would also use a sharp/not a ball or universal needle. Even if the dense design were on a t-shirt, I would still use a sharp. The reason is that when you are dealing with shading you are penetrating more of the design than the shirt. If the thought of using a sharp against a t-shirt bothers you, then change the needles back and forth as you work. There are a lot of people who wouldn't dream of putting a sharp on a t-shirt but there are a lot more stitches put into the inside of the shirt and into the design itself than the outside edge...so I don't let it bother me. On the other hand, when doing a lighter weight design on a t-shirt or other item, I would use a ball. Whether you need a solvy on top is dependent on whether or not you have little "nappie" things that stick up. If you do not, there is no reason to use a solvy...if it is velvet or a towel or something similar, solvy is definately needed. If it is a t-shirt or something like that it is a waste of money. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 12-02-2006, 09:26 AM (4 of 8)
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Tom has a good point. (He posted while I was working). You could make the design a little larger to relieve some of the density. If your machine/software does not automatically adjust the density when it enlarges it could help a great deal.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: nannylin
Date: 12-02-2006, 11:47 AM (5 of 8)
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Hmmm. Now that you say it, I can just picture the tearaway adding to the mess. Never thought of that! Thanks for the suggestions. I will try a smaller needle. Linda |
User: nannylin
Member since: 02-27-2006 Total posts: 47
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From: Tom Land
Date: 12-02-2006, 07:59 PM (6 of 8)
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Pam eventhough it goes against everything I was ever taught I too use a sharp even on knits when embroidering. I have never yet had a problem. I don't know if it is because the denser stitching of embroidery actually prevents the fabric from running or if maybe the reinforcement of the stabilizer does it. I just know I haven't had a problem with it and since the sharp makes a smaller hole the embroidery looks better. If I was embroidering something like nylon stockings I would probabably still use a ball point but since my wife thinks I'd look funny wearing embroidered nylons I don't bother to embroider them.
Have fun or don't do it, Tom
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User: Tom Land
Member since: 09-21-2005 Total posts: 514 |
From: paroper
Date: 12-03-2006, 05:33 PM (7 of 8)
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I don't know, I know several men who like stockings because they are warm. The reason I suggested the larger sharp needle was because I thought that the larger hole would assist in penetration. I think this is an area I would have to experiment with. I usually use smaller needles when doing embroidery but I have friends that use the larger needles all the time. I have an assortment and change out as I feel it is necessary. I was having problems with some thread loops I just couldn't seem to beat (it wasn't bad, but I wanted it to look really nice). The fabric was velveteen, thread Isacord and Yenment, stitches were simple satin stitch lettering...not too large or thick, two layers of polymesh stabilizer hooped well. I changed the speed, slowing down to 275, changed the top tension lowering it by 1/4 and 1/2. I couldn't figure out the problem at all. Changing the needle to a 14 Titanium helped...for absolutely no reason that I could discern. At least it worked in that situation. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 12-07-2006, 10:35 PM (8 of 8)
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It really helps me (and I'm sure others) when a discussion like this starts up, then I don't feel like its just me that struggles with my embroidery machine., and reading what adjustments you made, it's like found gold - really! Thanks Pam and Tom for your help.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
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