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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: GoGoAndrea
Date: 12-20-2006, 03:42 PM (1 of 3)
Ok no reponses in General, how about here:

So I'm making different tops and bottoms of outfits I'm designing...and was wondering if there are standard measurements for making darts??? I work with all spandex, so it certainly doesn't have to be exact, but if I put a "one size" on an A cup and a C cup it's going to look different.

I only need the type of darts that come from the bottom up (as if there's an empire waist, rather than coming from the bottom of the armpit) since 99% of my items are crop tops.

I have tried looking around the web to see if there's some sort of chart where if it's a C cup you make your wedge x amount of inches wide and your seam is x amount of inches long from base to tip. Or is there any way I can find out what the measurements were for my favorite RTW bikini top without taking it apart!?

Thanks for any help -A
User: GoGoAndrea
Member since: 07-07-2006
Total posts: 43
From: paroper
Date: 12-20-2006, 04:45 PM (2 of 3)
The depth of the darts is dependant on the cup size and physical make up of the person that it is made for (keep in mind that the older the person....oh well....) The dart itself should end 1 inch from the bust point, regardless of cup size or location of the dart, (this, of course, goes for bust darts.)

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Cathie.Tombs
Date: 01-16-2007, 04:55 PM (3 of 3)
This type of question is important. I found an older Quik Sew book on making action wear, and they suggest making the shape a little different, in armhole, and to curve out the seam at front side over bust area, and ease to back. I think you could look at some info on custom T's, and modify (i.e., Marcy Tilton). I am wrestling with the same issues, as I am a D cup, and want to sew with Cotton/lycra, and Nylon/lycra. Also, see Christine Johnson's site ( She has lots of info on sewing with knits and lycra. As the other poster suggested, there is also the position of breasts. Although I am a D, my breasts are front and center, but a little lower than higher (!!!???). I think we have to experiment. Barbara Deckert, and Angelina Di Bello have info on increasing and decreasing darts. I am still in the process of working on this, and lots of info I see is about changing the bodice SHAPE (so it fits up and over). More info on Sense and Sensibility site on changing pattern bodices, very helpful. Also, this is funny. I am trying to sew more, and be better organized. To-day I knew I had at least 1 1/2 hours to sew (morphing a skirt, mainly Burda), and once I sat down, the instructions were no where to be seen. I discovered I was sitting on them!!!!! Happy sewing!!!!!!
User: Cathie.Tombs
Member since: 08-27-2006
Total posts: 44
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