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From: mmhoule
Date: 12-21-2006, 09:51 AM (1 of 12)
| I've made a couple of blouses, but never seem to get the darts in the correct place. Is there some formula in deciding where the darts (side & front) should be placed? |
User: mmhoule
Member since: 02-18-2006 Total posts: 4 |
From: Patty22
Date: 12-21-2006, 10:16 AM (2 of 12)
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Since every "body" is different .....place your pattern on your body and mark where the point of your bust on your tissue pattern. From there, adjust your darts. Also, make alterations according to your cup size.
Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: mmhoule
Date: 12-21-2006, 10:34 AM (3 of 12)
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Patty, Thank you for your reply, but is there a formula as to how far from the bust that the darts should begin or end? |
User: mmhoule
Member since: 02-18-2006 Total posts: 4 |
From: paroper
Date: 12-21-2006, 11:20 AM (4 of 12)
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Not that I know of...only the rule that it ends 1 inch from the bust point. That is a pretty big variable when you consider the number of designs out there and the different types of body shapes and sizes. However, the 1 inch standard is concrete. Unless your garment extends beyond the waistline, it always begins at the cut of fabric....the waistline seam, side seam, corner of the waist/side, sleeve, etc. If you extend the dart beyond the waist it goes to the curve of the abdoman which is probably about 4-5 inches. If it extend to the back, it extends to the hollow of the back to the hips...that would be just short of 9 inches for MOST people. the top back dart would extend toward the shoulder blade. It would end just short of the shoulder blade. The longer the dart, the thinner the dart. All darts that extend through the waist are the deepest at the waistline. There is no magic formula, except the 1 inch. However, it always points toward the bust point UNLESS you need to add two darts to each side for people who have a large varience between the size of the waist and the size of the bust...for those people, you split the darts...if you do it in the front, you do it also in the back. These darts are placed about 1 1/2 inches apart and are centered on each side of the bust point, pointing toward the bust and stopping, once again 1 inche before the bust. The depth of the dart is determined by the difference of size between the bust and the bustline. It is also determined by ease needed/allowed and by the shape/design of the garment and, for instance if you curve the size seam (which in essence is removing a dart). It is doubtful that you will find a magic formula that will help you out. You can find information on ease but the variables are as different as the number of people out there, and garment designs that are made. Long darts are shallow, short darts are usually thick...so darts in the back would be more shallow than the darts from the waist to the bust. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: mmhoule
Date: 12-21-2006, 11:56 AM (5 of 12)
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Pam, The measurement I was looking for was the 1". I remember somewhere in my sewing years ago, that the dart should end before the bust, but didn't know exactly where. Thank you! |
User: mmhoule
Member since: 02-18-2006 Total posts: 4 |
From: grandma C
Date: 02-12-2007, 01:38 PM (6 of 12)
|
My ? is also about bust darts. I have moved the dart in a blouse higher (simplicity pattern 4120) but I also need to accomodate my gd's A cup size. I understand that patterns are usually sized for a B cup. The only darts in this pattern are the bust darts. It is not a fitted blouse by my assessment. I just don't want it looking like my gd is wearing her mothers blouse. Grandma C |
User: grandma C
Member since: 01-15-2007 Total posts: 263 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-12-2007, 02:10 PM (7 of 12)
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You will need to take a small tuck in the pattern piece to accomidate the smaller cup size. It will go all the way across the bust area, starting at the dart. Then, once you have removed this small amount you will need to refold the dart and recut the point in the seam line. You simply make a dart in the pattern as it will be stitched and then fold the dart down and recut the end of the dart. When you unfold you will have a new, smaller end to your dart at the seamline and it will accomidate the changes in the pattern. If you are lifting the dart up as you mentioned, you do the same...I usually just add a little square of paper to the end of the dart and then fold the dart down and cut on the seamline. You will probably also have a slight adjustment in the point placement of of the dart.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: neefer
Date: 02-12-2007, 03:04 PM (8 of 12)
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Not that I know of...only the rule that it ends 1 inch from the bust point. This depends on the size of the breast. 1 inch is too close for me. I'm a DD/E cup, and I back off 2 or more inches. Jennifer in Livermore
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User: neefer
Member since: 03-29-2004 Total posts: 29 |
From: grandma C
Date: 02-13-2007, 12:51 AM (9 of 12)
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Thank You Pam, I'll give it a try tho I am having a little trouble visualizing what you are telling me. Grandma C |
User: grandma C
Member since: 01-15-2007 Total posts: 263 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-13-2007, 08:27 AM (10 of 12)
|
http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html Check this site..there is a small notation on decreasing...with little in pictures but it is the opposite of large bust. After the dart is made smaller, the dart opening is redrawn starting at the same points and ending at the same points. Then you fold the pattern on the new dart line, press it down as the dart will look when the garment is made. After the dart is folded correctly, you cut up the cutting line and reopen the dart...this gives the new point at the seamline with the correct fold. If you move the dart up and don't do this, you will have a hole at the side seam, although with a smaller bust you may not have one larger than the seamline...not sure. Making the cup smaller is not nearly as hair-pulling as making it larger. You also may not have to move the entire dart up, you may just be able to change the direction of the dart and angle it up too if you want. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: grandma C
Date: 02-13-2007, 01:37 PM (11 of 12)
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A picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks everybody. I'll get Amanda to pose for a picture when its finished. Grandma C |
User: grandma C
Member since: 01-15-2007 Total posts: 263 |
From: grandma C
Date: 02-26-2007, 01:28 AM (12 of 12)
|
Well, here is what I did, I moved the dart up and made it longer and narrower but there was still too much fabric in the middle between the breasts. I had already cut the piece before consulting u folks so I couldn't follow all you advice unless I recut the front. I ended up putting in a tapered curved seam from each shoulder seam to the waist. It falls right across the center of the breasts and gives the top a more fitted look. It is pretty on Amanda. It's not quiet finished. 'will do that this week. I mostly only sew weekends. I will follow the pattern alterations before cutting next time. I lost the original design of the pattern. |
User: grandma C
Member since: 01-15-2007 Total posts: 263 |
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