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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: PaulineG
Date: 12-30-2006, 04:51 PM (1 of 8)
I seem to have a recurring problem when doing stretch binding on necklines. It doesn't always happen and unfortunately I can't seem to work out why it happens on some occasions and not on others. All appears well but then when I'm finished the neckline sags - its the sort of sag that a couple of pintucks to turn it into a square neckline would possibly fix.

Example - making a tshirt with scoop neckline - I didn't want to do the folded over double ribbing neckline so I got a narrow strip of self fabric and stitched it right sides together (stretching the self fabric) about 1 cm (1/2 an inch or so for you guys) from the edge of the neckline. Then I folded it over and around the neckline and topstiched it - away from the opening more towards where the edge of the self fabric started. I've seen and heard this referred to as a chanel trim but I'm not sure if that is international. It also occurs sometimes when I make the self fabric into a tape (not bias - because it's stretch - but folded over double twice like bias tape).

Reasons I've looked at for this to occur -

1. Lack of structure in the fabric (i.e. should I interface the binding - will that even work?).
2. I've not stretched the binding enough - or accidentally stretched the garment at the same time.

It doesn't seem to be a problem when I use rib - or at least not anywhere near as bad - I just would rather not limit myself this way.

Other ideas anyone?
Pauline
User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006
Total posts: 901
From: paroper
Date: 12-30-2006, 05:39 PM (2 of 8)
It sounds like you might be saved by using stay stitching. If you interface the binding, you are defeating the binding's advantages...the ability to conform to the shape of the neck. However, if you stay stitch the neckline and then add you binding, if the stay stitching is done properly, it should prevent the neck stretching out of shape.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: PaulineG
Date: 01-01-2007, 03:36 AM (3 of 8)
Thanks Pam - I'll make sure I do that next time - I usually only do it when the pattern instructions say so but I've made quite a few things without the aid of a purchased pattern so I've probably just gotten lazy in the conversion/alteration process.

I noticed something today (well not just today) - there rarely seems to be any further posts after you have answered someones question - you must be THE guru. I've probably missed it wandering around the boards - what is your sewing background?
Pauline
User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006
Total posts: 901
From: paroper
Date: 01-01-2007, 03:40 AM (4 of 8)
I don't know how true that is, never noticed. It is hard to type when you are laughing.

I have a degree in home ed education and have sewn professionally as a stay at home mom (after I left the corporate world). I had to close my business several years ago to take care of my mom and have not reopened it since her death (the nest is pretty well empty now).
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Magot
Date: 01-01-2007, 08:22 AM (5 of 8)
She IS the sewing Guru.

We bow to her superior knowledge.

Hail Pam.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us
Cells a Speciality
DNA to order.
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002
Total posts: 3626
From: Skye
Date: 01-01-2007, 03:20 PM (6 of 8)
What Pam said and possibly too much length in the binding. Depending on how stretchy the binding fabric is what works for me is cutting 3/4 or 2/3 the neckline measurement. I do this meaasurement onthe pattern pieces not the neck line it self
I have never actually stay stitched a t shirt neckline do in my wovens but not my knits
User: Skye
Member since: 09-28-2000
Total posts: 233
From: mommydionne
Date: 01-01-2007, 06:52 PM (7 of 8)
It sounds like you are stretching your neckline as you sew, staystitchig helps as does reducing the presser foot pressure onto your fabric so you have decreased drag on the fabric.
If your fabric is really delicate and prone to stretch you may wish to stabilize it with something ie wash away, tissue etc while you sew to reduce pulling.
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 01-03-2007, 08:10 PM (8 of 8)
I have read several times about self-binding for knits and they say either use the 2/3 measure or the 3/4 one for necklines.. But I think you are makiing the whole thing too heavy.. If you do not want it to be a ribbed neckline , just measure a small narrow piece of the self fabric and attach it the same way you would the ribbing.. That is the neat way to finish the neckline..I do this in tees that I wear with suits , etc.. for a dressier look.. (instead of ribbing)... Try it..In other words, you only stitch around the neckline once, not twice like in binding..
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
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