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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Cynret
Date: 01-18-2007, 03:04 PM (1 of 5)
I have been reading the fitting forums and there seems to be a lot of help there. I have been trying to get a t-shirt pattern adjusted to fit a slightly rounded back, very narrow shoulders and a large bust. So far nothing seems to work well. I wind up with the front looking okay but wrinkles in the back mostly running obliquely from the shoulder blade towards the underarm. Any suggestions or the best help books would be appreciated. Cynret
User: Cynret
Member since: 05-25-2003
Total posts: 17
From: paroper
Date: 01-22-2007, 07:42 AM (2 of 5)
The wrinkles point to the problem. Buy some inexpensive fabric similar to the fabric you will be using and use it to find the errors in the pattern. When I do this, I don't finish the edges or anything. In this case you'll probably need to add sleeves. I baste all seams so that I can rip out where needed to add temp. darts, etc to the shirt. Make the pattern up, try it on and have someone (if it is for you) lightly pin where you need the changes. The problem will be in not stretching the shirt fabric "out" as you go. Unfortunately, this can't be done in cotton or you wouldn't be able to get in and out of the shirt. T-shirt fabric is forgiving up to a point. The trick will be to make the changes and shift the pattern without adding darts to the final product. I wish you luck on this one. I've had to do some sewing for people with large busts and dowager's hump and it can be a head- scratcher, even when working with cotton which will allow for darts.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Cynret
Date: 01-22-2007, 01:51 PM (3 of 5)
Thanks, Pam, I have to agree with you that the trial and error method seems to be the best option. The pattern I am using utilizes a bust dart, so now I have to figure out what to do with the rest of it. Cynret
User: Cynret
Member since: 05-25-2003
Total posts: 17
From: NoraNora
Date: 01-23-2007, 11:10 AM (4 of 5)
I wind up with the front looking okay but wrinkles in the back mostly running obliquely from the shoulder blade towards the underarm. Any suggestions or the best help books would be appreciated. Cynret


Now mind you that I am NO fitting expert, but I'll throw my 2 cents in.
I think you need to slash the back pattern about the top of the shoulder blade area, do this from the center back to the seam line.
Then spread the pattern at the center back. How much depends on how rounded your back is...if it's only slightly (as you stated) then I would try 1/4 to 1/2".
You only want to spread it from the stitching line to the center...you will probably have to take a tiny tuck in the seam allowance so it will lay flat.
Now you will notice that the center back seam is no longer straight.
You can either put in a back seam (which it being a T-shirt you might not want to do) or you can rotate the extra to the shoulder and ease it in.
I sincerely hope this is of help to you...like I said...I'm no expert but my parents are both in their eighties and they both are hunched over somewhat and that is what I do when I sew for them.
The book I used to figure this out was "Fit for Real People"

Nora
User: NoraNora
Member since: 06-01-2004
Total posts: 5
From: Cynret
Date: 01-23-2007, 12:19 PM (5 of 5)
Thanks Nora, I have been meaning to get that book for some time. I have the Pants for Real People book and find that is helpful. Cynret
User: Cynret
Member since: 05-25-2003
Total posts: 17
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