Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: homemaker9
Date: 01-19-2007, 06:49 PM (1 of 8)
|
If you have a Vik Designer 1, I need advice on the embroidery. I am a little scared to just strike out on my own and I can't take a class until Feb. I ordered bobbin thread. It's not like what I normally use but a poly-thin type thread. It's on a cone ot spool so I'm not sure I have the right thread and how do I use it to fill a bobbin. Hope this all makes sense. Do I sound really confused?  I have been using the hand look quilting stitch on my baby quilt.
Fran
|
User: homemaker9
Member since: 01-06-2007 Total posts: 18 |
From: paroper
Date: 01-19-2007, 06:54 PM (2 of 8)
|
Most machines take 60 wt bobbin thread for embroidery. Normal embroidery thread is 40 wt. There is a common feeling among older quilters that the thread and the bobbin thread for a quilt should be cotton as should the quilt fabric. I don't know that it matters on all quilts but if the quilt is to be passed down, that seems to be the standard. I've heard that there are several reasons to use cotton instead of poly thread. One of the common arguments (I say arguments because some people don't agree with this) is that the poly thread will actually cut the quilt. The more reasonable argument is that while cotton will change color and age, the poly thread will not and it will wear differently. It makes the thread stand out in the quilt when the quilt ages and the thread does not, taking away from the looks of the aging quilt. I don't use a HV machine so I'll bow to someone who can help you with the HV fundimentals. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: sweetpea1
Date: 01-31-2007, 01:29 PM (3 of 8)
|
Homemaker9, I replied to one of your other posts on designs on floppies and converting designs for your Designer I USB. When I decided to learn machine embroidery, I didn't realize how much there was to learn and how expensive this new habit was going to be. Try not to be overwhelmed with all there is to know. Soon, if not already, you will be making tons of beautiful projects you can surely and confidently be proud of. This is my experience with threads. I use the Sulky 40 wt Rayons most of the time along with some Maderas. I have had beautiful results with these threads although I have read that some embroiderers do not like them. The bobbin thread you purchased should be fine if you prefer to wind your own bobbins. Bobbin thread is usually much thinner (lighter weight) than regular or embroidery thread so as to minimize the bulk on the back of your projects. This is a good thing. I started out buying the spools of bobbin thread and this is what I learned. I PREFER TO BUY PRE-WOUND BOBBINS. First of all, the pre-wound bobbins have more on them and last longer. They also are perfectly wound -- unlike when we wind our own bobbins -- making the projects go more smoothly. I think overall prewound bobbins are more convenient and less expensive in the long run because projects can be completed in less time and with less aggravation. I still wind my own bobbins when I run out of prewounds, but I will continue to buy the prewounds. A note about the way the thread should be placed on the machine for use -- the spools (not cones) should be placed on the spindle with the thread coming off the top or front of the spool. As far as using cone threads (that includes the bobbin threads that come on cones), when you place the cone on the spindle (which will be in the upright position), the thread will come from the back or left of the spool. This will seem backwards from the way your instruction manual tells you to load your thread. I was confused about this at first, but I checked with my dealer and she explained that its okay for the cones to spool off the cones backwards from the cones. I don't know why its okay for the cones to work that way and not the regular spools, but it works. A few other things to keep in mind -- if you can help it, only buy your embroider supplies when they are on sale or if you have a coupon. Sulky thread can be purchased at Joann's at 1/2 off every month or so. Stock up if you can on a variety of colors so you have lots of colors on hand for quick projects. Also, you should have several types of stabilizes on hand for different fabric weights and different types of projects. Again, watch for coupons and sales. Its the only way to go. I keep on hand 3 different weights of water soluables, paper stabilizer, tear away, cut away and sheer stablizers. Occasionally you may need the "dry fill" stabilizers (not sure I have the right name for that). It comes in different colors and is used on projects that you absolutely don't want the fabric color to show through or the nap (like with towels) to poke through the finished embroidery. I also keep air-erasable spray to stick water soluables and dry fill to the fronts of projects that need them -- again, such as towels. Use stabilizes as frugally as you can. Save bits and pieces in ziplock bags and mark each bag as to what is inside so you don't forget which is which. You can use two or more pieces of used stabilizes to create a new piece. Somethings you may need to use the spray to hold them in place or a few drops of water to keep water soluable pieces together for a second use. One final note, it is advisable to do test runs of your designs on the same or simiilar fabric that you plan to use on your projects. You may find that the design is not a good one or does not stitch out well on the fabric or that you need to try a different type or weight of stabilizer. Oh, there is so much to learn and have fun with when it comes to machine embroidery. If you have additional questions, I would love to try to help you out. You can email me directly at <email address removed for privacy> if you want. Sweetpea |
User: sweetpea1
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 56 |
From: paroper
Date: 01-31-2007, 03:12 PM (4 of 8)
|
Bobbin thread is 60 wt, the majority of embroidery thread is 40 wt. Just check your manuals. Some mfgs do not recommend prewound bobbins for their machines. If usage of prewounds in those machines should result in a problem with the machine, it could void at least a portion of the warranty. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: homemaker9
Date: 02-03-2007, 03:56 PM (5 of 8)
|
Thanks so much for the info. I am going for a class next week. I have made a few things. Thanks again. You have helped so much! Fran
|
User: homemaker9
Member since: 01-06-2007 Total posts: 18 |
From: Ann Made
Date: 02-04-2007, 11:29 AM (6 of 8)
|
Homemaker 9, I am using Husqvarnas and was told to use the green bobbins if you want to know when you are low on thread. I have used both Sulky and Robison Anton thread and find both are good for embroidery. If you aren't too concerned about knowing, use prewound bobbins as they are cheap. The only time you use the same weight in the bobbin as the top is when you are doing a design on wash away stabalizer - Christmas ornaments is one example. You want them to look the same on both sides. Embroidery is expensive as I am finding out rapidly. I buy a bit at a time as I do not get coupons for discounts as I am Canadian. I do buy at 2 quilt shops and the one farthest from home has the better stock of thread and both are about the same for the stabalizer. I do get better help from the one farthest from home but I bought my machine there due to a better deal. They are more helpful in other areas which is nice for me and they have adopted me with my serger which I bought locally and have had very little help. I had to take a course to learn about my machine which has frustrated me. To go in and get help has been hard as the lady won't commit the time to help me. Ann Learning is a journey, not a race.
|
User: Ann Made
Member since: 04-07-2001 Total posts: 67 
|
From: Tom Land
Date: 02-07-2007, 03:24 AM (7 of 8)
|
I don't know of any manufacturer that recommends pre-wounds. Pre-wounds alter the tension value because of the weight difference, drag from the paper, and the adheshive used on the threads. That said... I, as a dealer cannot recommend them however I use them almost exclusively. If they are going to be used you should have a second bobbincase and have the tension set to the pre-wounds you like to use. Then mark it with fingermnail polish or something to identify it. Find the kind of prewound that works best on your machine and stick with that one. Bobbincases do not like to be adjusted too many times or the threads on the case and screw get stripped and won't hold. If the side of a paper pre-wound gets bent tear it off as it could cause a jam that could ruin your bobbincase. On Vikings I remove the top paper side to make sure this doesn't happen. On Pfaffs and Berninas both sides should be removed or the low bobbin indicator won't work. I prefer the plastic prewounds but they don't work on all machines. If you also use cotton pre-wounds for quilting you should have a seperate bobbincase for that also. Have fun or don't do it, Tom
|
User: Tom Land
Member since: 09-21-2005 Total posts: 514 |
From: sweetpea1
Date: 02-12-2007, 03:49 PM (8 of 8)
|
To Tom and everyone else who expressed that most manufacturers do not recommend using prewonds, I was also told the same thing by my dealer. I was told that they were not recommended by the manufacturer. However, my dealer sells them (who by the way is actually a Husq Viking owned business) and expressed that they almost exclusively use them for their personal embroidery. I use the plastic ones and have never have a problem (other than the fact that the machine does not warn when the bobbin is almost empty). But, by all means, wind your own bobbins if you are most comfortable with that. Sweetpea |
User: sweetpea1
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 56 |
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-21264.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft