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From: CaboBill
Date: 01-30-2007, 02:05 PM (1 of 16)
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Hey everyone. I need your help. I am tryaing to figure out the fastest and easiest way for attaching sleeves. I make Floribbean shirts and the sleeves are, in my opinion, the weakest point of my shirts. The seam is rarely as straight as I would like. I currently use the sleeve that is one size below (ex. XL shirt- Lg. sleeve). Any and all advice is appreciated. Cabo Loco- "Paradise is closer than you think."
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User: CaboBill
Member since: 06-29-2006 Total posts: 16 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 01-30-2007, 04:04 PM (2 of 16)
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If you go from set in sleeves to the kind you sew on flat then sew up from the hem to the hem of the sleeve it is easier. Some people sew the top of the set in style from the notches up then sew the side seams and the seam in the sleeve and finish sewing them in but it seems like a lot of extra work to me. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: esrun3
Date: 01-30-2007, 05:20 PM (3 of 16)
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I just about always sew my sleeves in flat then zip the side seam and sleeve seam as one....goes quickly, looks good and I'm not as frustrated with getting things to match up and fit!
Lyn
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User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: paroper
Date: 01-30-2007, 05:29 PM (4 of 16)
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Each seam on a drafted pattern is one piece before it is cut apart to make a garment...so that the large piece fits a large shirt, xl sleeve should fit the xl shirt. The easing is to change the shape of the shirt sleeve seam allowance to match the shirt seam at the seamline, the shirt and she sleeve opening are the exact same size. Why are you using a smaller size? If you are using a smaller sleeve you should have to fudge the sleeve side seam allowance to make it fit the shirt or raise the arm opening to match the sleeve. Unless there is a problem with the drafted pattern, this should be the case.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: CaboBill
Date: 01-31-2007, 08:35 AM (5 of 16)
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Each seam on a drafted pattern is one piece before it is cut apart to make a garment...so that the large piece fits a large shirt, xl sleeve should fit the xl shirt. The easing is to change the shape of the shirt sleeve seam allowance to match the shirt seam at the seamline, the shirt and she sleeve opening are the exact same size. Why are you using a smaller size? If you are using a smaller sleeve you should have to fudge the sleeve side seam allowance to make it fit the shirt or raise the arm opening to match the sleeve. Unless there is a problem with the drafted pattern, this should be the case. This will truly show my ignorance, but I am unsure about what easing is and how to do it. All of the patterns that I have bought have never mentioned this. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Is there a site that I can go to that demonstrates how to do it step by step? Cabo Loco- "Paradise is closer than you think."
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User: CaboBill
Member since: 06-29-2006 Total posts: 16 |
From: CaboBill
Date: 01-31-2007, 09:01 AM (6 of 16)
Hey everyone. I just got done reading the article on this site titled "Setting Sleeves" and am more confused than ever. The shirt patterns that I have bought have the issue where the opening for the sleeve is smaller than the sleeve. Would I be better off ignoring the istructions that come with the pattern and sewing the sides of the body together and then inserting the sleeve?   Thanks again for all of your help. Cabo Loco- "Paradise is closer than you think."
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User: CaboBill
Member since: 06-29-2006 Total posts: 16 |
From: paroper
Date: 01-31-2007, 09:05 AM (7 of 16)
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On a well drafted garment, the sleeve should match the pattern size at the seamline...so all you are doing is bringing the excess curve of the seam allowance down to the same size as the sleeve and lending shape to the sleeve as it is inserted. Whether you decide to insert the sleeve while the shirt is flat is your option. On shirts that are to be flat felled at the side seam, putting the sleeve in a flat shirt is necessary. At the same time, if you intend to top stitch or flat fell around the sleeve (as some shirts are finished), it will be necessary to put it in after the side seams are sewn. It is somewhat easier to put the sleeve in a flat shirt but it is not that difficult to just sew in a circle around the shirt sleeve opening either if you sew from the sleeve side of the shirt. To ease (not gather the top of the sleeve), run two rows of basting stitches. One row should be at 3/8 inch, one at the seam line, usually 5/8 inch. This row of stitches should begin and end at the sleeve shoulder notches (by the way, the single notch is in the front of the shirt, the double notch in the back). Anytime you are going to ease or gather, your two rows should start and end side by side and they should be as straight as possible to avoid pleats later. You do not lock stitches by back stitching. Gently pull the basting stitches from the bobbin side. If your stitching is properly adjusted, the bobbin side will pull easier than the top stitches. (Once you start pulling the bobbin thread, always pull the bobbin thread. If you pull the top thread, the stitches will lock). Just pull enough that the top of the sleeve will start to form a shoulder. Take a little fullness out of the top stiitches also, most of this will be adjusted back to flat on a shirt. Now, pin the sleeve to the shirt first at the bottom seam (whether sewn or not), then match the notches and pin and finally the shoulder. Adjust the shirt between the notchea and shoulder on each side and pin as needed. Below the notches, the shirt should match the sleeve with no adjustment...pin. It is now time to sew. I always sew from the sleeve of the shirt so that I can adjust and make sure that I don't have any pleats and the sleeve lays smooth in the arm hole. If you develop pleats, lift your presser foot and smooth by lightly brushing the pleat with the tip of a pin. As you sew, make sure that you keep the shirt (body) even with the sleeve. If you do not, you will develop a pleat or two near the shoulder. When you finish, remove pins (if you are bad like me and sew over), turn your shirt right side out and check for any pleats on the shirt or sleeve. If you have any, they'll probably be in the shirt. If you should have one, just open it up from the inside, smooth and repair. From this point you should be able to just finish the shirt as you had intended. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 01-31-2007, 10:26 AM (8 of 16)
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If you were to cut a circle out of a piece of paper. At the cutting line, the circle and the piece of paper would be the same size (right?) Ok, now, if you added a 5/8 seam allowance to each circle, the inside circle would now be larger and the outside circle (paper) would be much smaller (right?) You would place a row of stitching around the inside circle...one at the seamline, one at the 3/8 inch mark to bring the circle down to size. On the paper side you would sew a 5/8 inch seam and clip so that you could maneuver the inside circle to be sewn back into the paper. In this case, the paper is more like a tube so you don't have to clip...because you are not sewing at 180 degree angle. You are sewing into a 90 degree angle at the top of the sleeve. This is the same basic principle. The sleeve IS larger than the hole but it is because the seam allowance has been added. You are running a basting stitches around the excess size to make the sleeve fit better. Does this make more sense?
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: CaboBill
Date: 01-31-2007, 01:31 PM (9 of 16)
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A little bit. I will definitely take some scap material to try. Unfortunately, I'm one of those that, if someone is going to show me how to do something, I need to have my hands on it, so I can see, feel and hear how it's supposed to be done. That way I can remember and duplicate it time and time again. Thanks again for all of your help. Cabo Loco- "Paradise is closer than you think."
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User: CaboBill
Member since: 06-29-2006 Total posts: 16 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 01-31-2007, 03:11 PM (10 of 16)
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here's a link with images. sometimes a picture helps. http://www.e-extension.net:16080/pubs/_c/C-211.pdf Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: mommydionne
Date: 02-09-2007, 06:00 PM (11 of 16)
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Cabobill unfortunately there are not many good books for sewing men's clothing. I am currently reading Shirtmaking by David Page Coffin, you can buy it off the Thread's website for about $30 (I think they may have a sale on now, get the paperback, the hardcover is mucho $$) he walks you step by step on how to make a classic man's shirt and then lots of different ideas for casual ones etc. I've learned a bunch of new techniques for collars, cuffs and plackets, worth the money if plan to keep sewing for yourself. Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
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From: mcfay
Date: 02-14-2007, 08:43 PM (12 of 16)
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When I worked at a factory where we made blouses we would sew the sleeves in flat, (before sewing up the sides). We would sew from the blouse side with the sleeves on bottom. Sew from side seam to the notch, then hold the blouse a little tight and let the sleeve feed in until you get to the other notch, the sew on to the other side seam without holding pressure on the blouse. You may have to practice a little to get the hang of if. By the way if you us a smaller sleeve it will not fit the person right. |
User: mcfay
Member since: 01-30-2007 Total posts: 16 |
From: temom
Date: 02-23-2007, 01:40 PM (13 of 16)
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Mommydionne, does that book have a pattern of sample minature sleeves that you can copy and then practice on? It sounds like a book I checked out this past summer. I learned a way to ease from Nancy Zieman (Sewing With Nancy, Nancy's Notions) - you take your sleeve, and in the seam allowance between the notches, run a stitch without securing (backstitch or fix), but you keep a finger behind the pressure foot holding the fabric, so it doesn't feed and bunches up. When you can't hold it any longer, lift your finger and place it again. Amazingly, this works really well, and you can either pull on the stitches to lengthen the material, or make it tighter, shortening if need be. I match it up, make any adjustments, pin and sew. It is a pretty easy method, and often matches up the first or second try. Theresa
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User: temom
Member since: 01-19-2007 Total posts: 410 
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From: mommydionne
Date: 02-23-2007, 05:48 PM (14 of 16)
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Not for sleeves but there are a bunch for different plackets and collars
Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838
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From: sewsassy
Date: 02-27-2007, 10:18 AM (15 of 16)
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here's a link with images. sometimes a picture helps. http://www.e-extension.net:16080/pubs/_c/C-211.pdfAndreaSews, thanks so much for that link. They have sew many more publications under this link. http://www.e-extension.net:16080/pubs/_c/. |
User: sewsassy
Member since: 03-07-2005 Total posts: 24 |
From: txnana
Date: 02-27-2007, 02:56 PM (16 of 16)
Cabo I have been making mens shirts forever....To this day I make my hubby western shirts...With mens shirts you always sew the sleeve in with all seams open and then sew body and sleeve as one continuous seam. Dont worry about the sleeve being bigger than the opening, like the other lady said it always is then like magic it fits. I always match the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam and sew one side then the other so this way the sleeve is always centered ( a little cut off the sleeve never hurts ) in case its still to big. That could be because u pull the sleeve to hard when sewing it in or you might not be right on the cut.......Have patience all comes out in the end.....Good Luck and God Bless.......... Txnana
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User: txnana
Member since: 05-22-2006 Total posts: 15 
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