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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: MaryW
Date: 02-12-2007, 08:29 AM (1 of 30)
I was sent this question. Any suggestions can be posted here. Thanks.

Hi,

I would love to know how everyone marks clothing patterns for cutting. I've
only found two suggestions. A list of ideas would be so helpful.
Joannie (The Dolphin Lady)
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: DorothyL
Date: 02-12-2007, 08:36 AM (2 of 30)
It depends on the pattern, the fabric and how long the mark has to be their before I use it.
Rarely I use air or water erasable pens. Often I use chalk. Sometimes I use thread tacks. Occasionally just a pin will do.
I cut notches outward and never mark anything by snipping into the seam allowance because my high school home ec teacher would come back from the grave and smack me.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: paroper
Date: 02-12-2007, 08:56 AM (3 of 30)
I still use tracing paper and wheel for many of my ordinary patterns...something I have been doing since high school. I use this for a lot of darts and if they are properly marked, there is no trace on the outside of the garment. I have graduated to a smooth wheel though because it doesn't tear up the pattern.

I also use tailor's tacks, if the mark is on the outside edge of the pattern, I just make a small clip.

I always still cut out all notches.

There are occasions when I use chalk for some markings. I rarely use air erase and never use water erase pens. If you decide to use chalk, make sure that it is powdery. The chalks that are slightly oily do not erase as well.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: temom
Date: 02-12-2007, 09:49 AM (4 of 30)
Let me start by stating that I am still a Newbie and using inexpensive fabric.
When I use the tracing paper & wheel, my marks for some reason are not very accurate. So if it is something that I will be sewing in the next hour, I use a air soluble pen (the marks don't last long in this southern humidity), and if I will be sewing it later, I use the water soluble pen, but only mark on the inside of the garment. I place pins on the markings, then use my pen to actually mark it. I also use the water soluble pen to identify my pieces - on the inside.
Theresa
User: temom
Member since: 01-19-2007
Total posts: 410
From: MissTaraTara
Date: 02-12-2007, 12:53 PM (5 of 30)
My projects are never stunning so I....

make a small snip in the seam allowances for notches

when marking on the inside I use a quilters pencils or water soluble pencils

when marking on the outside (like pocket placement) I will make a small mark with a mechanical pencil and then put a pin there so I can find it when needed.

I would like to learn to make tailors tacks. They look difficult but then everything looks difficult to me.
User: MissTaraTara
Member since: 01-24-2006
Total posts: 227
From: plrlegal
Date: 02-12-2007, 05:34 PM (6 of 30)
For garment sewing, I pretty much use the carbon paper and tracing wheel (blunt points) and my Clover Choco Liners. I very seldom find a reason to mark on the outside of a garment I'm sewing. I do cut notches and clip seams as I go. Of course for quilting, I have an entirely different set of markers, etc.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: mommydionne
Date: 02-12-2007, 06:33 PM (7 of 30)
I'm a chalk person, and I'm really lazy about marking :wink: I've been known to pull out the pattern piece and find where my notches go just before I sew in my sleeve! For heavy fabrics I use tailor tacks (great way to use up old vibrant threat colours) and sometimes I mark with pins (I like the ones with coloured glass heads for this)
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: bridesmom
Date: 02-12-2007, 10:49 PM (8 of 30)
Jeanette - you stole my method! I am bad for not marking until I get to the point in sewing where I need the mark, then I have to dig out the pattern piece and attempt to mark it, usually while its still in the machine!~:nervous: .
But I love the water and air soluble markers. I use them all the time. I have two of each, a set at the cutting table and a set at the sewing machine.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004
Total posts: 2026
From: Sancin
Date: 02-13-2007, 03:05 AM (9 of 30)
"I'm really lazy about marking I've been known to pull out the pattern piece and find where my notches go just before I sew in my sleeve!"

Must be a Canadian thing, me too! :up:
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005
Total posts: 895
From: paroper
Date: 02-13-2007, 08:38 AM (10 of 30)
No, it has to be the adventurer in you.

If you were drafting a pattern, while you had the pieces together, you would draw hash marks across the seamline of the uncut patterns, while they are together. These become the notches of the new pattern and assure that the pieces can be put back together exactly as they were drafted. Not only do the notches insure prefect recreation of the pattern, but they are coded. For instance, on the sleeves? There is ALWAYS one notch in the front, two in the back. They also begin where the sleeve starts to curve into the body and designate where ease should begin (unless it is a special sleeve design). If you have 8 pieces of a gored skirt, you will have notches in differing places on the skirt pieces to assure that you find matching pieces for putting the skirt back together. The notches become your "trail" for recreating the garment perfectly!

This whole process is like working a jig saw puzzle. You probably wouldn't take the notches off the puzzle before you put it together and it isn't a great idea to ignore them on a pattern either. Although there are often different ways to accomplish a project, shortcuts in sewing can lead to a less than perfect outcome. In this case, not only do you make the garment assembly more difficult, it is less likely that your fit and finish will be as perfect either. So you see, those silly notches are more than a minor inconvience.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Pudge99
Date: 02-13-2007, 09:37 AM (11 of 30)
I do it too. Sometimes I don't mark at all and just wing it. If it didn't sew together right then I pull it all out and try again.
Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures
Pfaff 2040
Janome Mylock 134D
Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch
Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001
Total posts: 1375
From: plrlegal
Date: 02-13-2007, 11:13 AM (12 of 30)
Wouldn't it be much faster to go ahead and cut the notches, mark the dots, etc. than to sew an entire garment together to find out it some of the pieces didn't exactly match? Also, what about grading seams, etc. as you put a garment together. Wouldn't that affect how the garment went together a second time if you had to rip it all out and start again? You know something, I've been sewing since I was 15 or 16 years old and I can't remember every "winging it" on any garment pattern I've made. Granted, sometimes I detour from the original design (as in putting a lining in when the pattern doesn't call for it) but I don't know what you mean by "winging" it?

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: dmoses
Date: 02-13-2007, 11:30 AM (13 of 30)
I use tracing wheel and paper, and sometimes a marking pencil or chalk.
If the marks need to be on the right side of the fabric, like placement lines for pockets, for example, I trace it onto the back of the fabric, and then follow the marking with a long running stitch.
I also cut those triangular notches outward.
I hate marking, but I don't usually skip this step because I find that, for me, it is really helpful(less frustrating:wink:) when putting the thing together.
Take care,
Donna
User: dmoses
Member since: 02-22-2002
Total posts: 964
From: Sancin
Date: 02-13-2007, 08:33 PM (14 of 30)
I don't think Jeanette and I are thinking of winging it. We are just too lazy to make the mark, in our 'excitement' to get started sewing. Remember, we do pull out the pattern pieces before actually sewing the sleeves. :nah: There are some things that are OK to wing, like a 2 piece skirt, perhaps. I rarely find I have to rip anything out and resew it. I tend to fit and sew as I go. :bolt:
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005
Total posts: 895
From: ninifav
Date: 02-13-2007, 11:19 PM (15 of 30)
One of my favorites tools is to save the slivers of soap from the bath...I let them dry out and keep them in my sewing room..really great with dark fabrics...and usually brushes away when all done...
User: ninifav
Member since: 09-06-2004
Total posts: 204
From: bridesmom
Date: 02-14-2007, 07:36 PM (16 of 30)
I guess we just like to sew the same thing over and over and over!! I know for me it's a bad habit I've gotten into and I've had to do more ripping than I'd like. I'm really trying to learn better habits, and sew each item like it was a very special item, rather than throwing it together. My DIL said the same thing, she didn't like sewing for herself cause she found she cut corners and then ended up with something she just tossed. But if she had to do a grad dress or bridesmaid dress for someone else she really took the time and did it right. So, we are both attempting to sew each item as if it was a very special outfit for someone. And that means marking notches and dots and squares etc etc.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004
Total posts: 2026
From: Ann Made
Date: 02-15-2007, 06:58 PM (17 of 30)
I am anal about marking patterns. I snip notches in and put in the correct number. I also put in notches for pleats. This was something I learned from professional sewers. I use a dritz wheel and paper for what I call tricky items such sleeve placket V's, curves on collar stands (if they are on the pattern) and center fronts of blouses. I have found that they help the garment go together better as you have worked the puzzle out before doing it.
Ann
Learning is a journey, not a race.
User: Ann Made
Member since: 04-07-2001
Total posts: 67
From: mozeyrn
Date: 02-15-2007, 10:53 PM (18 of 30)
I tend to use these and have learned that I need to press harder or get darker carbon since my marks don't always show up and I have to redo it. :bang: It just seems so time consuming but I know better than to wing it. lol
Is the fabric supposed to be folded right sides together or right sides on the outside when cutting the pattern & making marks? I'm figuring for the most part the marks go on the wrong side of the fabric? Is there an easier way to get the marks to show besides slipping the carbon between the paper pattern and the fabric or have the right sides on the outside & slip the carbon when the fabric is folded & making the mark that way? :nc:
- Maureen.
Learning something new with every stitch!!
Kenmore 16231000
User: mozeyrn
Member since: 11-29-2005
Total posts: 349
From: paroper
Date: 02-15-2007, 11:10 PM (19 of 30)
The tracing paper we used to get was better than what we can get now. My home ec teacher would have us put a magazine under the fabric before we traced it and that did seem to help. I think the hard surface keeps the tracing from coming off as easily. However, be sure that when you put the fabric underneath you also put a white paper on top or the mag ink can come off on your fabric. I do think the solid wheel transfers better.

I have also shopped around and found that some paper is definately better than others. I really like the two sided paper.

I usually cut with the wrong sides together so that I can transfer the markings without repinning the garment.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Ann Made
Date: 02-16-2007, 06:12 PM (20 of 30)
I, on the other hand, cut with the right sides together and pull out the pins where I need to and dritz in the markings I need. I started that with tailor tacks when I was in high school and kept it up. I don't think there is right way or a wrong way. I think it becomes personal preference.

I try to use yellow or red tracing paper when I dritz. The yellow irons out very easily and nice on most colours. The red is great on certain fabrics. That again is personal preference. I do have some purple tracing paper that disappears which is most frustrating as I only sew on weekends and if I dritz one weekend, I get to do it again the next weekend. Wasting time which is valuable.

Ann
Learning is a journey, not a race.
User: Ann Made
Member since: 04-07-2001
Total posts: 67
From: mommydionne
Date: 02-16-2007, 06:26 PM (21 of 30)
I'm in awe of you folks who mark carefully...
I'm just often in too much of a hurry:re: some patterns etc are more forgiving than others too, If I'm using something very expensive I'm more careful with my marking as well, but for quicky stuff (ie kiddie pants, pjs etc) I'll even cut out it out freehand using an old pair just for size :whacky:
For my clothes (I prefer a more tailored look) I'm a tad more careful and have started doing "wearable muslins" every now and then, I still like chalk most of the time though, I've got 3 different colours that I use.
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: LegalDealer
Date: 02-18-2007, 11:19 AM (22 of 30)
Could you tell me what brand of air or water soluble pens you use? I used an air one recently and found that when I was ready to sew...15 minutes later the marks were gone!
I also just started using the wheel chalk but find I have to make more than one pass to see it, and distorting the fabric a bit from the placement at the same time. Am I buying cheap stuff? I have also tried the wheel and tracing paper, but find it cumbersome.
Would also like to know if you all are marking to cut or to sew (a straight line) or both?

Thanks for your help!
Bonny
User: LegalDealer
Member since: 10-19-2006
Total posts: 27
From: plrlegal
Date: 02-18-2007, 02:41 PM (23 of 30)
Bonny I only trace/mark special markings that are on the pattern, for instance, darts, circles/squares that show where sleeves are to be ease stitched, the center of the sleeve cap, buttonholes, etc.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: paroper
Date: 02-18-2007, 03:38 PM (24 of 30)
I too only mark the special markings, darts, placement for pockets, circles, etc. When it comes to marking pocket placement I usually use an "X" in each top corner of the pocket on the wrong side with tracing paper. Then I just stick a pin through to the right side when I need to place the pocket. I use the machine guides for my seamlines.

When it comes to cutting the pattern out, I trace my patterns onto paper and make all alterations on the paper after I have traced the pattern. Then I just pin and cut the entire pattern (and all) out. Once in a while I will cut the paper pattern itself out. If I do that and the alterations are beyond the pattern paper, I just mark the alterations on the fabric itself with lead pencil (marks will be covered by the seamline).
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: sew classy
Date: 02-20-2007, 04:12 PM (25 of 30)
As a teacher to many beginners and as a sewer, I like the easy and quickest method is always the most popular. I use a water soluble pen a lot, although i always test it first, and never iron over the markings. I mark the other fabric piece by putting a pen though the pattern marking and marking where the pin comes out on the other side. I snip into the seam allowance for notches, but only the wide of overlocking (or serging) approx 3-4 mm. I still teach tailor tacking, or thread marking as it always works in difficult situations or with delicate fabrics. I have also found that it is really handy to snip into the seam allowance for the center back and center front on pieces, and also for things like the top of darts, fold lines, pleats etc.
User: sew classy
Member since: 02-15-2007
Total posts: 3
From: ohiodeb
Date: 02-23-2007, 06:03 AM (26 of 30)
This whole thread has been very useful to me. I usually use a water soluble pen for most things. I don't sew for myself (impossible to fit me) and usually sew for children. I find that most things I sew are pretty easy and the markings I make are adequate. I would like to start sewing more complicated things and will have to be more dilligent about marking everything.

Great thread.
User: ohiodeb
Member since: 01-07-2007
Total posts: 9
From: sewpink
Date: 02-25-2007, 06:46 PM (27 of 30)
Many (and I mean many) years ago, I bought a marking device called Tack-it. You use the Tack-it with tracing paper. It puts small round dots on the fabric. It is great! I use it to mark darts, the notches, the small circles, and pocket placements. It is super quick and easy to use.
User: sewpink
Member since: 02-10-2006
Total posts: 7
From: paroper
Date: 02-25-2007, 06:50 PM (28 of 30)
We had one in the high school home ec lab when I was in school. I've always wanted one of those and have never found one anywhere. I imagine that if someone found one in their mom's/grandmother's sewing chest they'd throw it away because they didn't know what it was...they were great!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Sancin
Date: 02-26-2007, 01:28 AM (29 of 30)
Isn't it funny how some people like some things and others don't like the same thing?! I have one of those tack it chalkers and never use it. I am assuming this is what you are talking about. A pin like device with chalk on one side - push pin through the fabric and attach a same size circle top on the other side and twist together, supposedly leaving chalk circles behindon 2 pieces of fabric. Mine has all sorts of colours but I have never been able to see them when I need it with most fabrics. This description is probably mud!! But can't think of another way to describe it. :bolt:
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005
Total posts: 895
From: sewpink
Date: 02-26-2007, 11:56 AM (30 of 30)
The Tack-it looks like a long stapler. You use tracing paper with it. You just hit the end with they palm of your hand like you would a stapler. The tracing paper then puts a small dot on the top and bottom piece of fabric. You can usually mark several things before you have to move it to the next spot.

I had one the round chalk marking devices before the Tack-it. I agree with you, the chalk thingie doesn't work!
User: sewpink
Member since: 02-10-2006
Total posts: 7
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