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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
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which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: IsabelleB
Date: 02-14-2007, 01:39 PM (1 of 29)
OK, everyone. Please don't bash me. I asked you about the suitable fabric for a winter wedding dress a few months ago. Well, we have finally decided to get married in August as it'll be easier to organize the family gathering. I am sorry for the waste of time earlier, although your replies were most helpful anyway! (they could be used for other dress projects! :smile I was wondering whether silk dupioni was suitable for a summer wedding gown? Or would it make me feel too hot? I shall make a simple empire gown (Butterick 6534 (http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B6534=x&TI=%276534%27&page=1), but their picture sucks!) I like the look of dupioni because it is not too shiny (I'm not keen on shiny), but still looks "special". Thanks in advance, ladies!
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: lendube
Date: 02-14-2007, 01:49 PM (2 of 29)
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I can't answer your question but I think it's a beautiful dress and it will look wonderful on you no matter what the fabric. Good Luck. Lennie |
User: lendube
Member since: 08-06-2006 Total posts: 1548 |
From: mommydionne
Date: 02-14-2007, 02:25 PM (3 of 29)
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Real silk dupioni will be wonderful because it breathes!! But... don't go cheap on the lining (ie regular polyester) b/c you will pay with a sticky lining that just lets any perspiration sit on you. I would use China Silk to line it , this is a very fine lightweight silk for lingerie and lining, it is usually only 36" wide so make sure you get enough, I just made a silk dupioni gown last year, I used silk organza for structure and lined with the china silk, I wore it on a carribean cruise and was nice and cool! oh yes, do not use the steam on your iron on dupioni, it takes away the sheen. 
Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
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From: IsabelleB
Date: 02-14-2007, 02:54 PM (4 of 29)
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Thank you both for your kind and helpful response! Jeanette, I had never thought of the lining. Thanks for the great tip. If you wore a dupioni gown on a Caribbean cruise, it should definitely be wearable in Northern France, even in August!  Thank you! Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 02-14-2007, 08:26 PM (5 of 29)
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I second all of the above. And, as silk and formal fabrics in general go, I'd say it's a relatively economical choice. You won't need much interfacing, so don't fret about the cost of the silk organza. If you have trouble getting or affording the China Silk for lining, you could also use a rayon (about $7/yd here in a "better" store--I'm thinking of Ambiance brand?). That is also breathable and feels very luxurious. Following up on that thread about pressing dupioni, I found that it pressed like a dream (steam not needed anyway). It was very nice to work with at the machine, but also the slubs in the weave made it really easy to do an invisible hem by hand. You're on the right track now!
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: IsabelleB
Date: 02-15-2007, 10:18 AM (6 of 29)
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Thank you, Andrea!! That is really helpful. I love the look of the fabric and had my heart set on a certain colour... Thank you. I ordered a bit more than needed and asked for a couple of samples, so I can test what washing will do to its sheen and texture. I might actually like it with a bit less sheen - I'll see when I get it. I just ordered it from a recommended US online store - even with the shipping fees, I got 4 yards for 36 euros, which I consider a steal. Can't wait!  I'll definitely have to look around for the right lining... Good thing I have 6 months left. Thanks again, ladies
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: MaryW
Date: 02-15-2007, 10:23 AM (7 of 29)
Sheen ages the wearer. Did you know that, I didn't. It was pointed out to me by someone who really has an eye for the overall effect of clothes on the body. Isabelle, you are young, don't even think about that but it is something to think about for us older ones.  Your fabric choice is wonderful, my favourite of all the silks and it is easy to work with. MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: IsabelleB
Date: 02-15-2007, 10:30 AM (8 of 29)
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Thank you, Mary! I didn't know that. I'll definitely have to test wash a sample. I read online that some people deliberately wash dupioni to take some of the sheen and body away. I even read it on the boards - what a wealth of knowledge one can find when searching the archives here! I wouldn't want to "shine" too much - I wouldn't be myself
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-15-2007, 10:35 AM (9 of 29)
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I think it will be lovely and it will be comfortable and light too.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 02-15-2007, 02:48 PM (10 of 29)
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"Bemberg" is the correct name of the rayon lining I was thinking of. Go for the china silk or the bemberg, depending on what you find most easily in the proper shade.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: IsabelleB
Date: 02-16-2007, 07:13 AM (11 of 29)
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Thank you, Andrea! Having a name makes it so much easier for a fabric-challenged girl like me. Plus I know I can find Bemberg in France too. My sewing book also mentions cotton batiste for silk garments. I believe it is about the same price as Bemberg. Which would be more suitable beneath dupioni? Thanks again, Andrea - all this information is so helpful. Wow, the project is really taking shape now! This is so exciting
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-16-2007, 08:12 AM (12 of 29)
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I'm not familiar with Bemberg, at least not by name. I'm not always too crazy about China silk because it is sometimes difficult to get a crisp turn...I had problems with my daughter's gown using China silk, which in my case was polyester. It was also a little more sheer than I wanted. I was looking for a slightly chrisper lining with a little more body and just couldn't find what I was seeking. I hate it when you know what you want and you just can't find it...you don't know what it is called...( might be Bemberg). I think batiste might be nice because it is a natural fabric which would breathe a little better than a man-made. It might not be as dressy as some linings though and it may still be a bit sheer.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 02-16-2007, 07:37 PM (13 of 29)
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You know, you have a few really good leads, all for fabrics that can work nicely for the project at hand. Now it's time to go out and do some sampling at the shop--What's available to you in just the right shade? What feels nicest on your skin? What seems like it will allow you to move most smoothly? You are the only one who will experience the lining all day. It's you're day. Treat yourself like royalty.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: Jenerator
Date: 02-22-2007, 05:59 AM (14 of 29)
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Here in Oz, I've come across two synthetic linings - one is called Bemsilk and the other is called Sunsilky lining. I'm guessing that the first is a renamed Bemberg. Next time I'm out fabric shopping I'll have to remember o find out what they're made of (ie polyester or rayon etc). I usually choose either of them, depending on the colour range available. Jen in Sunny Melbourne |
User: Jenerator
Member since: 05-27-2006 Total posts: 2 |
From: IsabelleB
Date: 02-22-2007, 08:16 AM (15 of 29)
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Welcome to the boards, Jen! I guess finding fabric for a summer gown is right up your alley right now - it's pretty hot in Melbourne, isn't it? Andrea, thank you for your insight. I hope I can go fabric-shopping in Montmartre soon. It takes time, though! I'll keep your thoughts in mind
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-22-2007, 09:21 AM (16 of 29)
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Oh, Fabric Shopping in PARIS (sigh)!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: IsabelleB
Date: 02-23-2007, 07:25 AM (17 of 29)
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Sounds exciting, Pam? It can also be very frustrating - you have to dig a long time in order to find some affordable fabric... and sometimes you just go back home empty-handed and totally envious at the super-gorgeous, but super-pricey fabrics you've just seen. Now, for those with more means, it's pure heaven! 
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-23-2007, 08:09 AM (18 of 29)
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When I was in high school I can remember browsing the Okalahoma State University library. OSU is an "Aggie" university, heavy on what was called home ec at that time and agriculture, as a matter of fact it is the mainstay for occupational training in those areas now. Anyway, I would browse the stacks while I was visiting. On one such visit I ran into international pattern catalogs, including several from France. I thought it was so wonderful because not only did they have patterns that were different from ours, but there were Heavenly fabric swatches on each page, giving fabric weight, stlyle, etc recommendations, many were fabrics that I had never seen nor I doubt that I have seen since. That set up a life-long dream of fabric shopping in Paris! Of course, as a product of the 50's and 60's, we grew up with television shows that showed Paris as THE place for fashion!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: IsabelleB
Date: 02-23-2007, 10:54 AM (19 of 29)
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That must have been fantastic, Pam. I would love to see a book like that, and to research on those French patterns. I only know one French pattern company today - and it is geared towards children and informal, stay-at-home mums. Not exactly my idea of haute couture I didn't even know about those pattern companies. What a loss! Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-23-2007, 11:18 AM (20 of 29)
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That is a shame that these things change! It was an eye-opener for a country gal from Oklahoma to see high fashion designs for sale and touch and feel such fine fabrics!!! It was a fantastic experience!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: IsabelleB
Date: 03-13-2007, 08:02 AM (21 of 29)
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Hi Ladies! Well, I got the dupioni. It might be a tad too stiffish for my taste as it is. I'll wash a sample and see how it turns out. The colour is exactly what I wanted, though. A pale silver blue. I'll keep you posted all along the process, but the wedding is in August, so I still have a bit of time (our wedding is going to be an extra simpe one).
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: temom
Date: 03-13-2007, 08:24 AM (22 of 29)
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Isabelle, that gown is stunning! You will have to take lots of pics while you are "creating" it.
Theresa
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User: temom
Member since: 01-19-2007 Total posts: 410 
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From: IsabelleB
Date: 03-14-2007, 03:53 AM (23 of 29)
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I shall, temom, I promise. It should be very stimulating to take and share pictures of the process.
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: MaryW
Date: 03-16-2007, 11:53 AM (24 of 29)
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A friend of mine went fabric shopping in Paris, France with Susan Khalje. It was a sewing tour she took last year. She said it was the highlight of her sewing life. LOL.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: paroper
Date: 03-16-2007, 12:17 PM (25 of 29)
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The summer before my sister died, she took a trip to England and took a tour of the lovely cathedrals. She and I had grown up on Dad's stories of England, Wales and Scotland from the time he was there during WWII. In her Christmas letter she stated "I have seen England, if I should die now, I would die happy." Her husband thought the phrase was morbid and made her remove the phrase but it remained in her documents on the computer. Her kids found it while looking for information on her computer. She mailed her Christmas letters that afternoon on the way to see Mom in intensive care. As she and her husband were leaving and while in the hospital parking lot, she collasped and died of an aeortic aneurism. The letters arrived at most of their destinations the same day that most people were getting the calls that she was gone...it was eerie.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: IsabelleB
Date: 03-17-2007, 06:03 AM (26 of 29)
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Wow, Pam. That's eerie indeed.
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: smessier
Date: 03-19-2007, 12:01 PM (27 of 29)
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Isabelle, your dress is going to be beautiful! I love that pattern. I like the idea of the cotton batiste. It's what I used on my dgd's gown and it was just the right weight. It is nice and crisp, not too see through, and since it's natural fiber, it breathes...very important for warm weather! Best of luck and share some pictures when you are done. Sandy |
User: smessier
Member since: 09-03-2004 Total posts: 114 |
From: breezy2560
Date: 03-20-2007, 08:26 AM (28 of 29)
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Hi Isabelle, I think you have made an excellent choice in the fabric. I love sewing on dupioni. I make a lot of exhibition showmanship outfits for a friend's daughter to wear when she shows her horses. I think the batiste or the china silk would be good choices for the lining. I have made outfits using both and my rider prefers the batiste. She says that it is a little cooler than the china silk (bemberg). We have a new magazine in the States put out by Taunton Press, who publishes Threads magazine. It is called Sew Stylish. Their website is www.besewstylish.com. In their premier issue, they talk about different lining materials. You might be interested in this. I have also found a website that has exquisite fabrics, some with exquisite prices  . www.fabriquefabrics.com, if you're interested.I have used this pattern to make bridesmaids dresses before and it sews very well. I used silk shantung to make them. The dull side was used for the dresses and the reversed shiny side was used for the ribbon effect at the empire waist. The colors were such that we couldn't find a suitable ribbon to use. Good Luck with your project. Can't wait to see pictures!! Debbie |
User: breezy2560
Member since: 11-11-2006 Total posts: 26 |
From: IsabelleB
Date: 04-06-2007, 08:46 AM (29 of 29)
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Hi Debbie! I'm so sorry, I missed your post. Thank you for the advice! I subscribed to Sew Stylish as they had a very interesting international offer for their début. Unfortunately, the first issue won't be included.  Thank you for the link to that wonderful ONS, which I didn't know! Such inspiration! Thank you My sweetheart and I both cherish simplicity, which is why I'm looking for lining that would be reasonably priced. I'm sure I'll find something, and I don't need that much - only 150 cm, I'm so small! (5'1"). After McCall's released their summer patterns, I changed my mind for McCall 5383 (http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5383.htm), which I really love! I haven't got the pattern yet (a sweet American friend will pick it up for me as soon as her notions store has a $-1 sale - it would cost me exactly 10 times as much to buy it from here). I can't wait to have it in my hands! The line is similar to the Butterick I initially planned on using; only the neckline is different, and I feel it is better for me - it's a younger cut, if that makes sense. I shall make view A, without the bow. I like its simplicity and the bottom flounce. A cute yet simple addition to the clean lines. Looks like an easy dress, don't you think? I don't think it will take much time to sew up. Which is almost frustrating! Happy Holidays everyone
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
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