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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
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From: nanasewn
Date: 02-26-2007, 10:50 AM (1 of 11)
Since I am new I am not sure if this is the place for this question. I have had dress shop for a couple years and still have not been able to get a fitting muslin. I am a beginner and need guidance for getting the fit right. Have gone to area user gp (which is kaput now) but the measurements never produced a fit. I am at my wits end as I cannot just keep making muslins over and over and stab at changing the measurements in the software. Have written to the DS site without much help. Any insight out there? thank you
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User: nanasewn
Member since: 02-26-2007 Total posts: 2 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-04-2007, 05:29 PM (2 of 11)
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If you are measuring yourself, that may be the problem. When you raise your arms to take a bust measurment, bend your head to read a tape measure, etc, you change your measurments. If you have been taking your own, enlist a friend's help in this venture.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: weezyrider
Date: 03-05-2007, 09:26 AM (3 of 11)
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Paroper is right. The software expert at Livingsoft passed away not too long ago. She was a big help. I have the software also, but mainly use it to adjust commercial patterns and make doll clothes. I've never made a muslin except for dolls. I hate fitted clothes and won't wear them. Weezy |
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218 
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From: karen v
Date: 03-05-2007, 12:47 PM (4 of 11)
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I have a different software, but you definitely need someone else to measure you. Try to get someone who sews garments--even if you have to pay a tailor to take them for you it is worth it. The software can only give you what you put in. I have heard that a good fit is really possible with your software--don't give up. What seems to be your main problem with the fit? There are certain proportions/relationships common to most figures--can you post your measurements? Sometimes there are just typos throwing the whole thing off. You can measure your own bust waist and hip--but you need help with shoulder length, FSW, BSW, shoulder slopes, BWL, bust point, bust to neck, sleeve length,etc. I hope we can help you--I remember pattern agony none to fondly. I have a wide ribcage (leftover from the twin pregnancy) but no bust--really hard to fit and the software takes care of all that. So hang in there and let's try to analyze your fit problems--I may not be available to post till 3/15 but I would like to help if I can. Karen V PS post a photo of your latest or best muslin so we can see where you need help. all art is lies that help us see the truth
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User: karen v
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 31 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-05-2007, 02:45 PM (5 of 11)
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The problem with measuring your own bust is that the pec muscles are affected when you use your arms...they tighten and stretch, changing the bust measurment.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: nanasewn
Date: 03-07-2007, 10:54 AM (6 of 11)
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thank you for input. I have been measured 3 times, none of them by myself I foolishly purchased the SW because I believed their ads. Fit! And as a beginner I assumed it would be easy  It has been so long, I am unable to even find my last muslin. Will try again. thank you again.ps would it be easier to start from scratch and draw my own pattern from a book? 
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User: nanasewn
Member since: 02-26-2007 Total posts: 2 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-07-2007, 11:18 AM (7 of 11)
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Since you've got the software I would stay on that track. Free hand drawing a pattern is not the easiest way. The easiest way is to start with a pattern that half-way fits and altering it to fit perfectly and then using that for a basis of all your garments. The pattern is called a sloper and it is a fitted bodice, skirt and sleeves...but that is a whole different type of pattern development. The software, if used properly and the right fitting problems are properly entered should make the adjustments for you automatically.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: karen v
Date: 03-07-2007, 08:06 PM (8 of 11)
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If you can't find your most recent muslin, then sew up a new one with the last set of Measurements. I use Swedish tracing paper or that weird gridded interfacing--it's much easier to trace the darts than using actual fabric. The downside is that it is kind of sheer and hopefully you will be posting a photo so we can all judge the fit and help you--so don't wear a black bra! KV all art is lies that help us see the truth
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User: karen v
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 31 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-07-2007, 09:56 PM (9 of 11)
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We used 1/2 inch or 1 inch gingham check. The checks helped us measure straight of grain because you want your garment to straight on the grain with the floor as well as with your body vertically.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: karen v
Date: 03-08-2007, 11:39 PM (10 of 11)
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It's not necessary to use checked fabric for a muslin from patternmaking software. If you lay your fabric out correctly that is the only "grain" you need to worry about. Bodies are neither plumb nor level, so why worry about checks? All you need is for the darn thing to fit. It took me 3 muslins to get my Wild Ginger Patternmaster Boutique dress style sloper to fit. That was PMB 2 and I was 25 pounds thinner then. I never used any checked fabric--just plain old muslin and junk fabric from my stash. I hate marking all those darts on the sloper so I switched to the Swedish Tracing Paper for my daughter and me so I could just trace through 2 layers with a sharpie. I wish I could find cheapo thin paper like the old style erasable typing paper or some kind of sewing paper in 8 1/2 x 14 sheets so I could just print it out and sew up a trial without any layout, pinning or cutting. Karen V all art is lies that help us see the truth
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User: karen v
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 31 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-09-2007, 08:53 AM (11 of 11)
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Actually, to have a perfectly fitted garment that HANGS well, it does need to be plumbed to the floor. You don't want a garment cut on the straight of grain whose hemline looks like the Atlantic Ocean in a hurricane. Hopefully, when you do this, you'll only do this once. It is worth doing correctly. Getting it plumbed is really not as difficult as it sounds...but it really makes a difference in the finished product.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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