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From: diannab
Date: 03-14-2007, 11:22 AM (1 of 6)
Any thoughts on what dimensions one would make one of these? I have a friend who is a nature lover and loves yoga.  I am making her a yoga mat bag. ALso need other crafty ideas on what I can sew for her thanks, dianna
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User: diannab
Member since: 10-28-2006 Total posts: 78 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-14-2007, 10:34 PM (2 of 6)
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So what shape is a yoga mat (rolled or flat folded)? Can you use a duffle bag type thing or a round gym bag or is it flat and folded.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: diannab
Date: 03-15-2007, 09:20 AM (3 of 6)
Hey PA!  The only info I can find on yoga bags is they need to be like an elongated tube. Thing is I dont do yoga, or know anyone who does so I am having trouble with measurements. :( LOL but the mat would be rolled.
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User: diannab
Member since: 10-28-2006 Total posts: 78 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-15-2007, 04:30 PM (4 of 6)
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You might google and see what you can find. You could even call a few places and see what they tell you. The mat size may vary according to brand. I think that a lot of the mats rollup and fasten with bands and velcro. If the mats are a little bit firm, they could be put in a duffle bag. If they are floppy a gym bag would probably be better. Neither bag would necessarily have to fit well but they would look nicer if they were close. The duffle bag is easiest because all you need is a circular base (just find something a little larger than the bag in the kitchen...a plate, skillet, mixing bowl or something to use as a pattern, draw a circle and either deduct your seam alowance from the size of the object or add the seam allowance. The sides should be enough for a casing at the top and a seam allowance at the bottom. It should also be roughly the length from top to bottom plus about 1/2 the width across the top. I usually take the "lazy way" and I add the seam allowance to my item. Then I take a tape measure and measure around the object I am using for the base (forget the PI stuff). The sides will have a seam and sometimes people will also put a shoulder strap on the side. If you do that, attach a little above center for the bottom of the strap and near the top (before it bends) for the top of the arm strap. You can also use a strap with just a loop doubled an sewn in near the top for a hand strap. Both would be entered into the side seam of the bag. I would probably either use something like a sports nylon for the bag or I would use my favorite which is Cordura, or maybe Sunbrella fabric. You use the same basic process for a gym bag except you have a zipper in the top which is applied to the long piece, and at least one circular inset at each end. You can double the end circles and add a zipper inside or out for a pocket...I usually set these so that they are 1/3 the height of the side, or I sometimes slope them off so that they are rather "artsy". The strap is constructed as a "O" and the bag is sewn into it like a cradle. That makes the strap stronger and will help support the contents of the bag. It is sewn up the sides just about half-way. It is sewn on each side of the strap, across the top where it is attached to the bag (I double sew across the top and I make an "x" boxed stitch at the top of each side. I set the straps so that they are about 1/3 from each end. When I insert the straps, I also insert a pocket. I often put a zipper in one side...just sew the zipper to the top of the pocket, and then flip the pocket up and apply the zipper to the bag. The other side of the pocket I usualy hem. When the strap is sewn down, I catch the sides of the pocket in the strap to secure the sides and seal the pocket. To keep things from falling through the pocket to the bottom of the bag or from the zipper side of the pocket to the unsewn portion of the pocket, I sew across the bottom of the pocket so that there is a line of stitching that stretches from one side of the pocket to the other side near where the bag will "turn" at the bottom of the bag. If you want an inside pocket with or without zipper, this is a good time to put it in the side so it won't show when everything is attached. I sometimes also add a "secret" pocket to the circular end...I call it secret because there is seldom a pocket there and most people who search a bag won't think to check the ends, esp if the zipper is the color of the bag. Initially I attach the outside pocket to the bag. Then I sew on the straps. I've used nylon strapping (melt the ends, overlap and sew) and I've used cotton. Both work well. The next step is to put in the zipper in the top of the bag. THe zipper is just sewn right sides against the bag and sewn like a seam. I place the zipper but before I sew it in, I will take a little piece of fabric that is folded in half and cover the ends of the zipper (for looks and reinforcement). As I sew the zipper, I will catch this little end in the zipper seam. This will help keep your zipper from separating. If you wish to cord the ends of the bag, it is easiest if you cord the flat portion of the bag now rather than try to cord the circular insert. If I cord a bag, I either self cord with the fabric I am using Or is use a plastic cording that is used on outside furniture. It does prevent premature wear of the edges of the bag. Before you insert the ends of the bag, be sure and add any pockets. As stated before, the easy way is to cut your ends, then cut another set. On the second set, cut a slack completely across the circle at the point where you will put your zipper. Use a 1/4 in seam allowance to attach your zipper (on most zippers you'll come out about even size-wise. Baste the two pieces together and insert in your bag. After you have your bag completed, go back and fold the strapping together at the center and go each direction about a total of 6 inches and sew. If you are using nylon strapping..just sew. If you are using cotton, you might cord it if you have some that works. Cotton tends to loose body and shape and it tends to wrinkle and look bad over time. Sewing this little section makes the bag more comfortable to carry over time and it gives the strap more body. Most of the Yoga mats I have seen have been rather a small roll but rather wide, well, wide enough to sit and be comfortable...not huge by any means. Once you have rolled dimensions, you should be able to decide what type of bag you want. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 03-15-2007, 09:09 PM (5 of 6)
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I googled for Yoga bag pattern and came up with these sites. Hope this helps. http://www.figandplum.com/archives/000016.html http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00167.asp http://www.pinkofperfection.com/2006/05/look_ma_no_pattern_sewing_a_yo.php TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 
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From: pigeon
Date: 03-23-2007, 02:15 PM (6 of 6)
| I just got a pattern Mcalls 4361 that has a yoga bag. I haven't made it yet though...on sale at Joanns |
User: pigeon
Member since: 03-15-2007 Total posts: 10 |
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