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From: thedolphinlady
Date: 03-15-2007, 02:26 PM (1 of 6)
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Hi folks, I finally have gotten the idea how to navigate through these forums through the help of so many. Thank you I am making a blouse where the bust dart has to be substantially lowered. I've found all sorts of information about cutting throught the pattern horizontally and vertically. Do I measure from my neck to my breast point, than aim the dart toward that point. My breasts are heavy and they are low--so should the dart point up? Any help on the easiest way to move a bust dart would be really really helpful. |
User: thedolphinlady
Member since: 02-14-2007 Total posts: 33 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-15-2007, 07:25 PM (2 of 6)
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If the bust point is just low but the darts are the right size? I'd slash the pattern above the dart and fold the pattern down to lower the dart, then I'd put a piece of paper in the pattern to make up for the "lost pattern". The direction of the dart isn't really a problem except that it is a design detail. There are times when the darts come down from the raglan sleeve or up from the waist...it is all a matter of fashion. Right now most darts are straight across. The general rule is that no matter which direction the dart originates, the end of the dart should be about 1 inch from the dead center of the bust point or shoulder blade (for the back)...the general idea is that it takes up excess fabric and ends 1 inch from the fullest point (which ever body point it directed toward). The exception to this would be if you had extreme difference, then you use two darts at the waistline or in the back and it is equally spilt on each side of the bust point or body feature. (Two darts are not normally used at the side bustline). pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: thedolphinlady
Date: 03-16-2007, 06:25 AM (3 of 6)
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Pam and all of you guru's, Thank you for your post on bust dart alteration. You mentioned Size of the bust dart???? I didn't realize there were different dart sizes for the bust line. My bust line is quite low (almost to my waist, :-( not quite, lol) and a D size The blouse has no waiseline darts, but is several inches above where it needs to be, and is a rather large dart. Can you give me some tips, once again. BTW, I got a post in my email that I had a message. Wow!!!! it worked.  > > If the bust point is just low but the darts are the right size? |
User: thedolphinlady
Member since: 02-14-2007 Total posts: 33 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-16-2007, 08:39 AM (4 of 6)
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Ok, so the first thing you need to do is split the garment across YOUR bustline. You mentioned that you had instructions about how to split up and down and all that? Well, here's your chance to do it! The garment is made for a B cup. THe easiest way in the world is to make the original garment up fist in a muslin, baste everything in and do it on your body. If you have a friend to help you with this, you can absolutely get it right and once it has been done, next time you can use your new knowledge to get it right every time. If not, I think we can adapt it to work with you doing it. I'm pretty visual so when I would have a customer with this problem I'd make the top in a muslin. Run a basting stitch on all the seam lines so you can tell where the seams WILL be. If the blouse has a center front opening, you'll need to run a basting line on the center front line so that it can be properly pinned in place. Then baste the back and front seams together. In your case, I would baste the side seam to just the top of the old dart...from there down we'll be working. Try on the garment and make sure that you are wearing it as you will be in the future..that the shoulders are right and everything. Now...on each side place a pin where YOUR bust point is. Take it off. If your you have a friend helping, you can get her to help you. (I think at this point, I'd sew the garment up from the waistline a little bit so that it will hold together...not all the way but maybe an inch or two and I think I would sew it so that it will stay.) Ok, now, when I do this on someone, I just slash this open across the bust and pin a piece of scrap fabric across the top to accomidate the opening. In your case, if you are doing this without help, you'll slash across the bust points...now a word here. Your bust points may not be even. If they are not, FUDGE...slash across the pattern so that the opening is between the levels of the bust points. Now, add a strip of fabric under the opening and pin it in place. I'd start by pinning with a 1 1/2 opening, try it, and then open it more if needed. When you get it right, baste the whole piece in place. Ok, at this point, you have an alteration that puts the bustline at the proper place in your garment AND you have the extra fabric you need in place (right?) Now, we need to get the side seams right. (This is kind of fun). You now place a dart to take up the "slack". this dart can be centered at top and bottom of the bust or you can take everything out from the bustline down, kind of pointing the dart toward the bust point. MOst darts are set so that the center line of the dart points straight toward the dart. After you have placed your dart, (I usually just tuck it), take the shirt off, baste the dart, duplicate it on the other side, try on the shirt and make sure that everything looks right. If you didn't have extra fabric at the side of the shirt when you put your patch in, you'll have a big hole...don't worry...just get the dart right now. Once you have what you are looking for, then we make the repairs to the side seam. This is pretty cool. Mark your dart lines that you have just basted in with a marker, pen, pencil, something. Check your pattern I always have to stop at this point and THINK which side of the pattern is normally made up on the pattern (right or left). Looking at your pattern, you'll want to use the same SIDE of the new pattern as your pattern company used when they made the pattern. This allows you to make up 1/2 the garment and try it on or pin it together for fit...so duplicating that pattern side is just a good idea. Ok, on that side of the front, you'll need to do the last steps. You'll need to open your dart and add a final patch to the side of the shirt and under the dart. Now, refold and pin the dart shut and fold it down as it will be when it is sewn. Pin the dart down so that you don't accidentally bump it in this next process. Straighten the side seam. This will remove all traces of the old dart (cut off the old dart's point) You'll just run a straight edge down the side of the pattern and clip off all "junk" that sticks out, patches, old dart edge, small points, whatever. Now remove the dart pins and you should have a new dart point sticking beyond your pattern and your dart should be in place. Last step. FOLD YOUR BLOUSE FRONT IN HALF...if you have been working with a blouse that had buttons, then you can just discard the second half---you are done with it...if this is a full front, fold in half and press to get a good center line..make sure it is straight and cut the other half away. You now have made all the alterations you need to this pattern. You can now use this fully customized front to make alterations on any pattern you need. It is a good idea to trace this out on something like paper, light weight cardboard, whatever so that this pattern will be stable. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: thedolphinlady
Date: 03-28-2007, 07:03 AM (5 of 6)
 PamOh my Goodness, It looks like I am going to have to do some real work here on my bust darts. Lol, I asked for it, didn't I !! Pam I am a D cup not a C cup. not sure if it is the same process. Thank you so much for your detailed lesson on bust alterations. Where do you people come from? Gardian Angels of the Sewing World!! God Love Y a, Joannie > > Ok, so the first thing you need to do is split the garment across YOUR bustline. You mentioned that you had instructions about how to split up and down and all that? Well, here's your chance to do it! The garment is made for a B cup. |
User: thedolphinlady
Member since: 02-14-2007 Total posts: 33 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-28-2007, 08:18 AM (6 of 6)
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The process is the same for any size bust.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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