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From: dcloud
Date: 03-21-2007, 12:46 PM (1 of 32)
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Hi everyone. I just joined this site because I bought my first sewing machine (Singer model 3116) and I'm sure I'm going to need lots of help. The fabric I'm working with is nylon knit and Lycra spandex and I'm wondering is there a certain type of thread and/or stitch I need to use for these fabrics? I'm also looking at getting Sewing for Dummies (http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Dummies-Janice-Saunders-Maresh/dp/0764568477) which I found on Amazon. I was wondering if this would be a good book for a noob like me? I can see that this is going to take me some time to learn, especially the different stitches, types of fabrics, stitch settings, etc. Hopefully I won't drive you all nuts with my questions. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-21-2007, 01:18 PM (2 of 32)
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Hopefully I won't drive you all nuts with my questions Don't worry, it's a short trip for most of us. You need a ball point needle and a stretch stitch or, if your machine doesn't have any stretch stitches (but it probably does) a short zig zag. Fool around on some scraps of the fabric you are going to use before you seriously start. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: dcloud
Date: 03-21-2007, 03:44 PM (3 of 32)
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Hi Dorothy. Thanks for the reply. The machine does have a stretch stitch and a corresponding stitch setting (they recommend "4" on the dial). The machine came with some needles, but the only thing on the package (below each needle) are numbers: 11/80, 14/90, 16/100, 11/80, and 14/90. It's a Singer package and it has two numbers at the top - 2020 and 2045. I went to the Singer site and checked the needles they have for my machine and it appears that style 2045 are "ball point" needles. I guess that's what I have then, but I'm a little confused as to the other numbers and each needles use. I asked the lady at the sewing dept. where I bought the machine for needles that would sew these types of fabrics and she gave me a pack (it has the name SCHMETZ on it). On the pack she gave me it says Universal and then these numbers: 130/705 H 15x1H, 80/12. I'm not sure what the numbers mean. I probably should have waited to find out more about the needles and what I would need before buying them, but they were only a couple bucks. Is there a way to figure out what these needles I have are and what they are good for? Also, would I need a special type of thread for sewing these fabrics? Thanks for your help. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-21-2007, 04:27 PM (4 of 32)
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I use Schmetz Universal for almost everything unless I need a ball point on a knit. I think a lot of other people use the Microtex sharps more often than I do, although I keep some around. Those numbers are the sizes. The larger the number the bigger the needle. I think 80 is good for medium weight fabrics. If the fabric is light, use a lower number needle. If it is heavier you need a bigger needle. Like I said, fool around on some scraps til you get a stitch that looks good. It's pretty easy stuff if you have someone to ask questions of or even a good book. You'll do fine. If I can do it, anyone can. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-21-2007, 06:08 PM (5 of 32)
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I'm not super wild about the universal. I think most of us use them because it makes things easy. Ball needles are used for stretch knits. Microtex are used for fine wovens, almost indespensible when sewing chiffons, fabrics that snag or any woven. There were complaints because people were always having to change needles when they started a project so the companies came up with an in-between needle...one neither sharp or ball. These are neither sharp nor ball...generally not the best for anything but "rather" satisfy the need. Ball point needles don't pull or snag fine knits like lycra and they push the fibers out of the way as you sew. Sharp needles also do not snag but they make a sharp clean cut into the fabric. Sizes vary from a size 9 upward. Size 9 is very light weight and bends easily. It is used for the finest of fabrics. 10-12 are nice medium weight needles. I consider 14 (90) to be a heavy needle. 100 needles are about the weight of denim type needles. Your needle and thread should match the type of fabric you are sewing. a heavier needle needs to sew a heavier weight fabric and use heavier thread. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: dcloud
Date: 03-21-2007, 07:52 PM (6 of 32)
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I think these ones that came with the machine are ball needles. But then I'm still trying to figure out sizes, etc. So what do the numbers mean ... like 11/80 ... what does the "11" stand for and then the "80"? What I mean is, if it says " 90/14 HJ needle", would that be the same as 14/90? I'm just trying to figure out what the numbers stand for above and below the slash mark. I've been looking around for some Lycra fabric and then reading up on what type of thread (most sites suggest an all-purpose polyester thread) and stitches. For instance I found the following on the threads web site (concerning Lycra): "For sewing nylon-Lycra knits, use a 70/10 SUK ballpoint needle; for all other Lycra-blend knits, a 75/11 HS stretch needle is appropriate. Areas of stress, like crotch and underarm seams, need a 2.5mm triple stitch ; other seams, such as those at side, inner leg, and casings, take a narrow, .05mm- to 1.5mm-long zigzag. Test seams after sewing by stretching as much as possible. If stitches break, loosen the top thread tension, and test again until there's no breakage. For seam-edge finishes, serge together with a three- or four-thread overlock stitch, using woolly nylon in both loopers. Don't use a five-thread overlock stitch because it has no elasticity. Topstitching on Lycra knits is done with a ZWI HS stretch twin-needle, using woolly nylon hand-wrapped onto the bobbin and in the loopers. Using the stretch twin needle (identified by its blue band) is important, or skipped stitches will result. To flatten out the ridge that sometimes appears between rows of topstitching, loosen the top-thread tension." I take it a twin needle is something I'll have to buy for the machine. And I'll have to look for those needle sizes they mention. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-22-2007, 07:27 AM (7 of 32)
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I believe the two numbers such as 11/80 mean the same thing in different languages -- Like 11 is European for 80. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-22-2007, 08:16 AM (8 of 32)
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Well, one is the size. Needles are graded like screws, the larger the number, the larger the needle. Thread, on the other hand is graded the oposite, the larger the number, the smaller the thread. It has to do with how many needles will fit into "something or other"...can't remember.... One of the numbers is the actual size of the needle in "something or others". I don't know what the other number is, but they are always used together when dealing with home machine numbers...doesn't really matter because once you get used to using the numbers, as long as you get the basic idea and you understand how they go with the fabric, it works. There are also codes on the needles that indicate that they are for home machines or industrial machines, and what kind of needle they are, BP for ball point, etc.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 03-22-2007, 09:25 AM (9 of 32)
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Maybe this site will help with the explanations. At the bottom of the page, you can download and print it out. Hope this helps! http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/sewinginfo/hsc-sewing-hints/sewing-mach-needles.htm TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 
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From: temom
Date: 03-22-2007, 10:54 AM (10 of 32)
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HeyJudee, that is an awesome link. I printed it out for reference. Thanks!
Theresa
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User: temom
Member since: 01-19-2007 Total posts: 410 
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From: dcloud
Date: 03-22-2007, 05:03 PM (11 of 32)
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Judee, thank you for that awesome link. I've bookmarked it into my growing Sewing folder (lol). Dorothy and paroper and everyone else thank you for the explanation on the sizes. I've ordered a couple sewing books and now I need to get some fabric to practice sewing on. I found some Lycra fabric through this eBay store (http://cgi.ebay.com/Solid-Black-Stretch-knit-Lycra-Fabric-1-yd-dance-swim_W0QQitemZ330089410526QQcategoryZ71213QQtcZpho toQQcmdZViewItem) and I was wondering if you all could give me your opinion on this. Is this a good deal? Thanks again everyone for all your help. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: toadusew
Date: 03-23-2007, 07:48 AM (12 of 32)
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If you're interested in purchasing a good book about correct sewing machine needle sizes for different fabrics, I would highly recommend Sandra Betzina's books "Fabric Savvy" or "More Fabric Savvy" (this is the updated/latest version). I also like "Reader's Digest Complete Book of Sewing" for a good all round general sewing reference book. Sometimes you can find this book at the local library so you can see if you would like to purchase it or not. 
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User: toadusew
Member since: 01-08-2005 Total posts: 369 |
From: qltnanny
Date: 03-23-2007, 09:35 AM (13 of 32)
Thanks for the needle link. It is very helpful. 
qltnanny
NH |
User: qltnanny
Member since: 03-19-2007 Total posts: 11 
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From: MissTaraTara
Date: 03-23-2007, 11:31 AM (14 of 32)
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Hi everyone. I just joined this site because I bought my first sewing machine (Singer model 3116) and I'm sure I'm going to need lots of help. The fabric I'm working with is nylon knit and Lycra spandex and I'm wondering is there a certain type of thread and/or stitch I need to use for these fabrics? I have nothing to add, I just wanted to say "You sew girl!"  .... you have really hit the ground running. I think I'll learn to sew with knits one day.  Also, thanks HeyJudee for the needle link, it's great. 
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User: MissTaraTara
Member since: 01-24-2006 Total posts: 227 |
From: dcloud
Date: 03-23-2007, 04:19 PM (15 of 32)
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I have nothing to add, I just wanted to say "You sew girl!" .... you have really hit the ground running. Thanks, but I'm a guy, lol. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: Sancin
Date: 03-23-2007, 05:36 PM (16 of 32)
I agree with taratara - you go and keep up the enthusiasm. If you find yourself becoming a little frustrated with the knit, buy yourself some or lot of unbleached cotton. I buy it in 10 yard lots and wash it very hot water to preshrink. It is remarkably handy to try things out on. Because I quilt as well as sew I keep a pile of 15" squares of the fabric near my machine to try stitches out for length and width, etc. Here are a couple of other links you may like to check out: Excellent resource which includes description of needles to use as well as thread and fabrics http://www.superiorthreads.com/index Will need to handstitch at some point - this is good reference http://www.fiber-images.com/Free_Things/Reference_Charts/handsewing_stitches.htm *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
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From: dcloud
Date: 03-23-2007, 05:49 PM (17 of 32)
| Thanks for the links. That first one didn't go anywhere, but the second one worked. Hand stitching is not something I aspire to, that's why I bought the machine. Of course it's bound to happen, but hopefully once in a GREAT while. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: Sancin
Date: 03-23-2007, 06:29 PM (18 of 32)
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Try this - I had hoped the editing would work. Cut and paste - it really is a good site. http://www.superiorthreads.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=category§ionid=7&id=67&Itemid=100 *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895
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From: trini
Date: 03-23-2007, 09:00 PM (19 of 32)
| Thank you for the needle link; I prnted it for future reference. |
User: trini
Member since: 09-17-2005 Total posts: 74 |
From: dcloud
Date: 03-23-2007, 11:02 PM (20 of 32)
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I agree with taratara - you go and keep up the enthusiasm. If you find yourself becoming a little frustrated with the knit, buy yourself some or lot of unbleached cotton. I buy it in 10 yard lots and wash it very hot water to preshrink. It is remarkably handy to try things out on. Because I quilt as well as sew I keep a pile of 15" squares of the fabric near my machine to try stitches out for length and width, etc. Thank you for the advice on the cotton. I'm going to look for some in bulk because I'm dying to get started practicing. I've had the machine for three days now and I haven't done anything yet. Mainly it's because I'm trying to find a small sewing desk to get set up on. Right now it's just sitting on my counter. Just to make sure I have this right, the cotton is referred to as "muslin", correct? Most of the sites I'm finding call it that. For instance, Cotton Muslin - 38" Unbleached LL Utility Muslin. Just want to make sure I'm getting the right thing. Thanks. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-24-2007, 08:01 AM (21 of 32)
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You don't have to buy muslin to make a muslin. Sometimes it is better to get something else closer to the weight of the fashion fabric you plan to use. Sometimes you can find something cheaper than muslin. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-24-2007, 08:25 AM (22 of 32)
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There are also grades of musilin. Some of it is almost like cheesecloth and doesn't work well for "muslin" test garment.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MissTaraTara
Date: 03-24-2007, 10:49 AM (23 of 32)
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Thanks, but I'm a guy, lol. OOps!
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User: MissTaraTara
Member since: 01-24-2006 Total posts: 227 |
From: dcloud
Date: 03-24-2007, 02:13 PM (24 of 32)
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Ok, I still need to know ... 1) Is cotton "muslin" - are they one and the same? 2) Cotton Muslin - 38" Unbleached LL Utility Muslin. Is this the right type to buy? Thanks. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-24-2007, 02:17 PM (25 of 32)
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I'll defer this to the people who use muslin a lot...the 38 is the weight/probably thread count but I'm not familiar enough with muslin to be sure. I buy it by sight. You might also post on the quilt forum. Muslin used to a common fabric used in quilt backs. I don't know if it is still used but someone there might know the answer. Another alternative to the muslin which is probably much cheaper is second hand sheets from a thrift store OR even twin sheets from Wal Mart. You can usually get those starting about 2.99-3.99 each. You don't care if they would wash "nubby" if this is a test pattern.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: dcloud
Date: 03-24-2007, 02:44 PM (26 of 32)
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Hmm, ok ... all I want to know is muslin the term for cotton? Another poster here suggested I get bulk yardage of unbleached cotton fabric, pre-shrink in hot water, and then cut into 15" squares to practice sewing stitches on. Now every place I'm looking on the Web they refer to this unbleached cotton as muslin. My question is this the same thing, or are they talking about a different type of fabric? I just want to buy some "unbleached cotton fabric" so I can start practicing with my machine. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: Sancin
Date: 03-24-2007, 02:51 PM (27 of 32)
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This is good timing as I was just at fabric store 2 days ago looking for muslin fabric. I was looking for an unbleached soft moderately weave cotton. What I saw labelled as muslin was not that - it was more like a tighter weave unbleached cotton. I ended up buying batiste for what I wanted to use the fabric for. I generally use what ever is cheapest for trying out stitches and new to me techniques and it generally is unbleached cotton. (38" Unbleached LL Utility Muslin-more or less). It is handy and I buy it in bulk. I also use this fabric for backing on quilts or for applique and many other things around the house, like bags to hold my vaccum attachments. The unbleached cotton that I buy has little flecks in it and is smooth when I buy it but a little puckered after shrinking. Once ironed is a tighter weave than originally I do not usually make 'muslins' (trial garments), but it is the name used to describe just that - a trial garment - which may be thrown out after serving its purpose. In a 'muslin' garment, fabric can be any fabric you want to use, usually cheapest, but best be the same or similar weight to what your finished garment will be. I think, but not sure, that originally muslin was used to describe a fabric used for everyday dresses as one did not dress richly every day and muslin was probably the cheapest fabric, hence the term stuck. "She was dressed in her muslin dress" The store where I shop has an end of the store for 'value' fabrics which are rolls of mill ends. While cheap I rarely buy fabric from there as the fabric content is not known and often does not feel what I want. Good luck and have fun. Be patient. You will get something made soon!  Let us know how you make out. Getting feedback on our information is important to us - we learn too.
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895
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From: paroper
Date: 03-24-2007, 02:54 PM (28 of 32)
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Bingo. Muslin is Cotton, Muslin comes in bleached and unbleached. Not all unbleached cotton is muslin. There are grades of muslin besides being bleached and ubleached there are some grades of Muslin that are almost like cheesecloth and so not hold their shape. My confusion is that often a Muslin is a term used for a practice garment used for fitting. It is often made out of unbleached muslin, not because it is the best for the job but because it is often cheap. Let me throw a wrench in this as though I haven't done so already. If your are wanting to get a great looking stitch out of your machine designs, just for the sake of practice, if it were me, I'd buy white twill or better yet, duck or canvas. Twill is what work pants are made from, duck or canvas are what tennis shoes are often made from. As far as adjusting the tensions up and down, those need to be adjusted from fabric type to fabric type, BUT the heavier white/off white fabrics won't distort and draw as would a medium-light weight cotton, so you'll have excellent examples of your machine stitches, which you can look at and be proud of. In addition, if you are doing just test patterns, I would use a different color in the bobbin and contrasting threads in both. This way when you go back you can easily tell which was bobbin thead and what is the right side of the fabric. Often machine techs use the heavier fabrics when testing the machines because they give good clear stitch outs. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: dcloud
Date: 03-24-2007, 03:09 PM (29 of 32)
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Sorry, I'm still lost. All I need to know is what type of fabric (the unbleached cotton that was suggested earlier) do I need to get? I do not want to quilt or anything fancy like that. I just want to practice stitching. If you have already told me I am not seeing it in your replies. Sorry. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-24-2007, 03:25 PM (30 of 32)
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Well, like I said, duck, canvas or (non stretch) twill will best show off your stitches with the least amount of pucker.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-25-2007, 09:14 AM (31 of 32)
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Doug -- Get the cheap stuff off the sale racks in the back of the store! Get all different kinds. Play with it! Try different stitches with different fabrics. This is a creative activity. You'll learn the rules as you go along and make up some of your own. Have fun not stress. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: dcloud
Date: 03-25-2007, 08:58 PM (32 of 32)
| Thanks, Dorothy. Point taken. I'm just getting all the info I can while I'm waiting on my other stuff to arrive. I still have to find a nice little desk to work on. |
User: dcloud
Member since: 03-21-2007 Total posts: 72 |
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