Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Sheri
Date: 04-11-2007, 04:38 PM (1 of 18)
|
In Shirtmaking, by David Coffin, on page 131 there is a picture of a shirt with a "disappearing collar stand." Page 130 has a brief description of it, and a suggestion that maybe this is the style Ronald Reagan used to wear. DH has no neck and the description of the collar band sounded good to him (sits low on the neck, collar rests on the chest rather than around the neck). He'd like me to try it, if I could figure out how to. So...anyone out there know what I'm talking about? And if so, anyone know of a pattern (men's or women's) with directions for making it? Or even a website or book that gives more details so I can try to figure it out? Thanks! |
User: Sheri
Member since: 12-04-2000 Total posts: 126 
|
From: plrlegal
Date: 04-11-2007, 10:22 PM (2 of 18)
|
Sherri the disappearing collar stand is simply a collar stand that is tapered on either end until it actually disappears right into the front button area of the shirt. I had to study the picture on page 131 in the left bottom corner for a few minutes. Look at the strip of fabric running along the botton of the stand in that picture and you'll see what I'm talking about. Kwik may have a shirt pattern on that order. I'll do some googling and see what I come up with. Patsy Patsy
|
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: Sheri
Date: 04-12-2007, 10:16 AM (3 of 18)
|
Thanks, Patsy. I understand what the stand is, even think I could probably draft a pattern of it. My problem is how am I going to put it together and make it look right. I'm hoping someone knows of a pattern with this type of stand so I can read actual instructions (hopefully with a couple of diagrams/pictures) that might make it make sense to me. |
User: Sheri
Member since: 12-04-2000 Total posts: 126
|
From: plrlegal
Date: 04-12-2007, 01:39 PM (4 of 18)
|
Sheri I spent some time last night looking through the different pattern companies (Kwik Sew, McCall's, etc.) and didn't see any patterns for a man's shirt that might have a collar that is made that way. I think I'll do some more googling and get back to you. However, could you take a regular shirt pattern and do it the way they show in the book of tapering a collar stand down on each end, add that strip of fabric along the bottom of the collar stand and then attach it to a regular shirt front? I've got a man's dress shirt pattern for my dh that I might pull out and take a look at tonight and play with it, just to see if can be done. Patsy Patsy
|
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 04-12-2007, 02:04 PM (5 of 18)
|
Sheri his book says that David Coffin is a senior editor at Threads Magazine so maybe if you post your question on the Threads website, he might answer and give you an idea where you might find a pattern with that type of collar. Patsy Patsy
|
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: Sheri
Date: 04-12-2007, 02:55 PM (6 of 18)
|
Actually, he left Threads a couple years ago to "pursue other interests." I may try to get in touch with him anyway, but don't know if I have anything up to date on him. As for trying it the way he describes in the book, there you go, that's it exactly! Problem is, I have a majorly hard time with directions. When doing something for the first time, I re-read directions a dozen times or so, trying to understand and get comfortable with it. I don't have much trouble actually sewing, just following directions. (Come to think of it, I have a problem with following directions in all aspects of my life!) 
|
User: Sheri
Member since: 12-04-2000 Total posts: 126
|
From: bridesmom
Date: 04-12-2007, 08:58 PM (7 of 18)
|
I have a sewing book that does have some pretty good directions for a collar with a stand if you'd like some copies of that, it has pictures and everything. But it's not the disappearing type, just a regular one. Let me know and I can scan it in then email it to you.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 04-12-2007, 09:55 PM (8 of 18)
|
David Coffin's book on shirtmaking is wonderful on everythng except the disappearing collar stand and it doesn't go into any detail about how to go about constructing that particular collar. Patsy Patsy
|
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: MaryW
Date: 04-13-2007, 06:55 AM (9 of 18)
|
I am building a jacket from Vogue 2955 (17 pces.) with a collar stand that is shaped like this (). I think that is what you are discussing. Correct me if I am wrong. I will dig out the directions and give you the wording.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
|
From: MaryW
Date: 04-13-2007, 07:39 AM (10 of 18)
|
The pattern says to staystitch the inner curved edge of your under collar. Then, with right sides together, pin undercollar and stand together at notched edges, clipping under collar where necessary. Edgestitch under collar and stand along seam line. Pin stand to neck edge, baste and clip where necessary. Does any of this make sense or help? MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
|
From: plrlegal
Date: 04-13-2007, 07:53 PM (11 of 18)
|
The disappearing collar stand seems to be quite unique in that it tapers on each side of the collar to actually disappear at the very front end (on each side) and them just becomes part of the front neckline of the shirt. David Coffin use a folded strip of fabric on the bottom of the stand we're talking about and that strip of fabric looks like it's actually longer than the stand taper on each of the front ends and becomes part of the front neckine if the shirt itself. Except he didn't go into detail or offer any information as to a pattern or how to construct this collar and stand. Patsy Patsy
|
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: Sheri
Date: 04-16-2007, 10:24 AM (12 of 18)
|
Patsy, actually, I spent about an hour with that book yesterday, trying to figure it out. Apparently, David Coffin isn't the maker of the shirt, just found and photographed it, then described it somewhat in his alternate styles chapter. I think I kind of have a plan for it, but I won't know if it will work until I actually try it: Make collar, topstitch, etc.... Attach collar to stand. Topstitch stand at top where it meets collar. Sew stand to neck edge (no worries about making a nice finish, that's later). Make a strip the length of neckline, make it like a bias tape, pin over raw edge, sew in place. What do you think? Do you see any flaws in the idea? |
User: Sheri
Member since: 12-04-2000 Total posts: 126
|
From: DorothyL
Date: 04-16-2007, 10:36 AM (13 of 18)
|
I have a shirt pattern with a regular collar -- no stand at all -- and a strip of fabric, cut on the bias, that covers the raw edges. The strip is folded and sewn at the top -- raw edges even with the raw edges of the collar and neckline then folded down over the (well graded and trimmed) raw edges and the folded edge is sewn down, leaving a bit of top stitching just under the collar. Is that the kind of thing you are talking about -- with the stand included, of course. If so, be sure you make the strip wide enough. And I don't think it would work on a very heavy fabric but, while at first I didn't think I would care for it, it is a really nice finish. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Sheri
Date: 04-16-2007, 10:53 AM (14 of 18)
|
I have a shirt pattern with a regular collar -- no stand at all -- and a strip of fabric, cut on the bias, that covers the raw edges. The strip is folded and sewn at the top -- raw edges even with the raw edges of the collar and neckline then folded down over the (well graded and trimmed) raw edges and the folded edge is sewn down, leaving a bit of top stitching just under the collar. Is that the kind of thing you are talking about -- with the stand included, of course. If so, be sure you make the strip wide enough. And I don't think it would work on a very heavy fabric but, while at first I didn't think I would care for it, it is a really nice finish. Dorothy Dorothy, that sounds like exactly what I was thinking. Do the instructions in the pattern sound like what I was planning? How wide is the strip they use? Out of curiosity, what pattern is it? Maybe I should buy it for the directions. |
User: Sheri
Member since: 12-04-2000 Total posts: 126
|
From: plrlegal
Date: 04-16-2007, 11:02 AM (15 of 18)
|
Actually the picture shown on page 131 of David Coffin's book has the collar stand under the back of the collar and the stand gradually grades down as it comes around each side of the collar until it disappears into the actual front of the shirt, doesn't it Sherry? But Dorothy's pattern sounds like it might be similar to that picture. I'm at work and don't have my book with me this moring. Patsy Patsy
|
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 04-16-2007, 11:59 AM (16 of 18)
|
Sheri.-- The pattern has no collar stand -- but yeah, it sounds like what you want where the stand is attached to the shirt. The band is strictly inside the shirt to cover up the raw edges of fabric. Where the stand grades down would have to be your design. But it seems like if you copy a regular collar stand then redraft the front edges you could do it. Because the front edge is so narrow you would cover with the band rather than doing it the regular way, right? Am I visualizing this correctly? The pattern piece is as long as the neck edge and only about an inch or so wide. I cut mine wider because it seems to me that an inch would be too narrow once it is folded. With my shirt the front is self faced and turns back over the edge of the band. Your shirt must have some kind of front facing that would cover those raw edges. You shouldn't have to buy the pattern. PM me with your regular email address and I'll send you step by step instructions if you need them. I'm sitting out a snow storm so I'm not far from my computer and sewing machines today. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MaryW
Date: 04-16-2007, 12:11 PM (17 of 18)
|
I have something totally different on my pattern. Not the same at all. Snow!!! LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL!!!!!!!!!!!!! MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
|
From: DorothyL
Date: 04-16-2007, 12:24 PM (18 of 18)
|
Yeah Mary, real funny. My Mini Cooper is buried. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-22065.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft