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From: fabric_addict
Date: 06-04-2007, 01:33 AM (1 of 10)
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Hello. I'm trying to alter the McCalls pattern M4491 (http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4491.htm?search=4491&page=1) to make the sleeveless version into a nice evening gown. I've got 7 yards of a dark green brocade waiting until I get the pattern alterations figured out. I plan to make a muslin copy with a shorter skirt (which I hope to actually wear) as a practice run. Since the skirt is full, I thought it would be fun to have a lining for the muslin version that was very colorful so there will be quick peaks of the colorful lining if/when the bottom of the skirt lifts while dancing. The pattern only lines the bodice...So my question is how do I line the rest...especially since I'd like to have the lining attached at the hem of the dress rather than have the lining fall separately from the outer muslin? Are there any pitfalls with this? I hope my explanation makes sense Thanks. |
User: fabric_addict
Member since: 05-04-2007 Total posts: 12 
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 06-04-2007, 02:23 PM (2 of 10)
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What a fun idea. You've explained it perfectly. For your shorter muslin, will you also be using the dark green brocade, or some other fabric? I think it's fine to use the contrast lining on the skirt, as long as it doesn't alter the appearance of the outer layer, b/c the seam allowances could show through differently than the rest. Food for thought. The lining pieces are the same as the dress pieces in this case, so you'd simply make the dress twice--Once in lining and once in fashion fabric, and then sew them together at the neck and armscyes and hem, and then slip stitch at the back closure. I have to think a little bit on the order to make sure that you can turn it right side out. Is there a side seam, or is there a side panel with a side-front and side back seam? That complicates it a little bit. Either way, it can be done, with the magic of planning and slip stitching.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: fabric_addict
Date: 06-04-2007, 03:24 PM (3 of 10)
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Hi Andrea, For the shorter muslin trial, I'd be using tea-dyed cotton and then a wild polyester for the lining. I put the polyester against the cotton and it didn't seem to show though much if at all. I haven't tried sewing samples of each together yet, so I don't know how the seams will look. I'll keep an eye out for that. Thanks. ____ The lining pieces are the same as the dress pieces in this case, so you'd simply make the dress twice--Once in lining and once in fashion fabric, and then sew them together at the neck and armscyes and hem, and then slip stitch at the back closure. I have to think a little bit on the order to make sure that you can turn it right side out. Is there a side seam, or is there a side panel with a side-front and side back seam? That complicates it a little bit. Either way, it can be done, with the magic of planning and slip stitching. _____ It is good to know that it can be done. Yes, there are side seams. The dress is a princess cut (I think that's what its called) with a front, side front, side back and back (2 sides of back). The pattern also calls for lacing in the back, but I'd like to replace that with a zipper. If you think of the best order in which to put this together please let me know. Thanks for the help! |
User: fabric_addict
Member since: 05-04-2007 Total posts: 12
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 06-04-2007, 08:31 PM (4 of 10)
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I'm still thinking. I almost had it...
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 06-04-2007, 10:49 PM (5 of 10)
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I think I have it. Assemble the front and back of the dress, but do not sew the side seams. Attach front to back at shoulder. Do the same with the lining. Lay them out, right sides together. Give ample pinning around curves. Sew the neckline and the armholes, but not the back or the sides. Trim seams, clipping and notching curves, which will take a while. Reach in through the front and pull the back parts out through the shoulders--Now it's right side out. Press. Next, open it out at the sides (do a search and look for a diagram for this b/c it's hard to explain without a picture) and put the front-side and back-side linings together at the side. You're going to stitch the lining to the lining, right sides together, and go all the way to the bottom of the arm hole, matching seams up, and continuing now with the fashion fabric front-side and back-side together, right down the the bottom. Now if you understood all that, then you have formed one continuous side seam. Do the other side the same way. Now you have it looking like a dress, but not hem yet, and no back seam or zipper. Follow so far? Let me know when you've got it, and I'll go on.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: paroper
Date: 06-19-2007, 02:49 PM (6 of 10)
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It is possible to treat the lining and the skirt of the garment as one piece, just baste them together and it works well. You can also totally finish the skirt lining and hem the skirt and lining together. Attach them at the bodice together except for a small portion around the zipper where the lining is hand tacked to get a good coverage.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: fabric_addict
Date: 08-08-2007, 11:02 PM (7 of 10)
| Thanks! I finally have a chance to give these suggestions a try. I'll let you know how it goes. |
User: fabric_addict
Member since: 05-04-2007 Total posts: 12
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From: fabric_addict
Date: 08-09-2007, 12:10 AM (8 of 10)
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I think I have it. Assemble the front and back of the dress, but do not sew the side seams. Attach front to back at shoulder. Do the same with the lining. Lay them out, right sides together. Give ample pinning around curves. Sew the neckline and the armholes, but not the back or the sides. Trim seams, clipping and notching curves, which will take a while. Reach in through the front and pull the back parts out through the shoulders--Now it's right side out. Press. Next, open it out at the sides (do a search and look for a diagram for this b/c it's hard to explain without a picture) and put the front-side and back-side linings together at the side. You're going to stitch the lining to the lining, right sides together, and go all the way to the bottom of the arm hole, matching seams up, and continuing now with the fashion fabric front-side and back-side together, right down the the bottom. Now if you understood all that, then you have formed one continuous side seam. Do the other side the same way. Now you have it looking like a dress, but not hem yet, and no back seam or zipper. Follow so far? Let me know when you've got it, and I'll go on. Andrea, You are brilliant! I made a little doll's dress and it worked perfectly for that. I do have concern about trying to make the full-size gown this way. The shoulder straps are going to be relatively small (approx 1 inch) when done and the skirt is very full. I have a hard time seeing how I'm going to be able to pull all that fabric safely through the relatively narrow shoulder. (If you think it can be done, I'll give it a try...I am making a muslin first after all) Do you have any further ideas on how to finish it from this far? Thanks!! |
User: fabric_addict
Member since: 05-04-2007 Total posts: 12
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From: paroper
Date: 08-09-2007, 12:29 AM (9 of 10)
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You don't add the skirt to the top until it is turned. I have a friend who does all her wedding clothing (basically) this way and she has a side seam INSIDE the garment when it is through...that leaves an easy way to alter the garment without taking it all apart if it is too big/small. The direction she is taking you will leave you with a hidden seam inside the lining...but it is an viable option to just sew the side seams inside the dress....
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: fabric_addict
Date: 08-10-2007, 03:22 PM (10 of 10)
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Thanks for the suggestion. I'm a bit confused though...the dress does not have a top and a skirt. It is a princess-seamed dress that has pieces that run from top to bottom. My hope is that I can get it the right size because I don't really want to see the seams on the inside. I can see how it would be useful to have access to them if I thought I'd need to alter further. |
User: fabric_addict
Member since: 05-04-2007 Total posts: 12
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