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From: lendube
Date: 06-11-2007, 12:41 PM (1 of 21)
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Just finished a top and alas! the armhole openings are a bit too large and gap at the front. I've finished them with facings and topstitching but it's not too late to take that out (if I HAVE to). A dart would do it, I guess, but is there any other way? To make the dart look good I'd have to take it apart. thx, Lennie |
User: lendube
Member since: 08-06-2006 Total posts: 1548 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-11-2007, 01:31 PM (2 of 21)
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Lennie, Can you make a little dart down from the armhole for shaping? You'd have to take out your sleeve finish but unless the sewing fairy comes by and waves his wand it seems like you may have to do that anyway. Pam will probably have a better answer -- but I bet it will involve unsewing too. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 06-11-2007, 01:50 PM (3 of 21)
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Dorothy is right Lennie; I can't think of anyway you can fix it without unsewing first. If the armholes are too big, you can also unsew everything on both side of the actual armhole/side seam and take the seam in under the arm and doing the same with the facing or as you previously suggested, a dart on each side to take in the extra fulness in the front of the blouse. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-11-2007, 02:05 PM (4 of 21)
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Is there an adjustment you can make from the shoulders? Putting a dart in the sleeve opening brings a lot of complications. When you put in a dart you have a gap because the dart mismatches the fabric, top to bottom...that is why you have a "v" shape where you put darts in garments. If the dart is very small, this may not be a huge problem. It reshapes the armhole. If you do it only in the front and don't do anything to the back it can make the front a different length than the back and make the whole garment askew. Alterations are my weak point. I do better when I can put my hands on the fabric and see what can be done to make it hang right. Perhaps Libby will have something for you.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: lendube
Date: 06-11-2007, 03:56 PM (5 of 21)
Allllll Riiiiiight........... I got the big guns here. How does a girl get so lucky?  The gap isn't large. 1/2" less altogether will do the job. The gap is in the lower quarter of the front. (That's why the shoulder thing won't work.) I think small darts should do it. Looks like I'm in for a bit of "unsewing" this afternoon. Luckily the fabric is dark blue batik with a muted tie dye and print. No one will ever know the darts are even there. thank you so much, Lennie |
User: lendube
Member since: 08-06-2006 Total posts: 1548 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-11-2007, 04:09 PM (6 of 21)
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Sounds like you have it in control. 1/2 Inch isn't all that much! Good luck!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: EmaCon
Date: 06-11-2007, 04:40 PM (7 of 21)
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Just finished a top and alas! the armhole openings are a bit too large and gap at the front. I'm just curious to know why you have this armhole gap. Did you try to pinfit the pattern or do a sample and not notice the gap or did you just jump in there and cut and sew? Is this a pattern company you've used before in your regular size or is it a company you've never tried before? Do you think this top fits you properly except that the armholes are too big? If you tried on a similar top in RTW, would you get the same gap? |
User: EmaCon
Member since: 07-28-2006 Total posts: 67 |
From: lendube
Date: 06-11-2007, 05:06 PM (8 of 21)
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Oh, I mis-wrote. It's a total of 1" on each side. I don't think I'd bother with 1/2" total. It's a 1/2" wide dart. Silly me! Okay, Emacon. To answer you I did just jump in and sew it without fitting only because I had made a summer dress from the same pattern with the same pieces. The top (with matching capris) is just a shorter version of the dress which fit fine. One possibility is that I pulled a little too much and just stretched the armholes out of shape. Albeit evenly apparently. It's Simplicity # 4220. I did have to adjust the fit of the dress top. I look at patterns and see that I'm a size 16. If I make a 16 it's always miles too big. (That's a whole other topic though.) I cut out a 16 on this dress (thinking better too big than too small) and had to take in the sides of the upper top pieces 1 1/2 inches on either side. This might have caused the problem as well. The armholes were based on the larger size. With rtw it's that way sometimes but not always. I'm rather busty and we all have a different bustline so I don't think it's any one factor. Probably a combination. Did I answer your questions? Lennie |
User: lendube
Member since: 08-06-2006 Total posts: 1548 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-11-2007, 05:16 PM (9 of 21)
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My guess would be that if it is a properly sized garment (size wise) and you did a full bust alteration on it you wouldn't have the gap at the arm holes because the dart would be in the side. Even some garments that are designed without a dart, on a full-busted person need a dart. However, if the arm hole is too low, that adjustment needs to be made next time too.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 06-11-2007, 06:45 PM (10 of 21)
Lennie I usually cut a smaller size at the neck and armholes and the larger size for the rest of the garment. That way, I don't end up with gaposis at the armholes and neck. This combination for me took me a while to figure out but it works well for me now. That's one of the reasons they designed multi-sized patterns -- for us odd sized people. Oh for the days when I had perfect measurements!!!  Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: lendube
Date: 06-11-2007, 07:03 PM (11 of 21)
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Thanks for the opinions. This is a top that slips on over the head. There were no darts and maybe was designed wider because there is no closure. The armhole seems to be in the right location, not too low. What's baffles me now is the fact that I didn't have this problem with the dress and I do now with the top. Oh well, it's really not a big deal since I can easily fix it with a little time investment. I cut out a 16 because that is the smallest size I have on this pattern. I guess I need to get a standard for myself like Patsy did and stick with that. But wouldn't that change from company to company?? I smell a new post coming on.........  Thanks again, Lennie |
User: lendube
Member since: 08-06-2006 Total posts: 1548 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-11-2007, 07:32 PM (12 of 21)
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yep...it varies wildly from company to company...Butterick and Vogue USED to be the smaller sized bust patterns...but Butterick can surprise you sometimes now...they are starting to take on some of the proportions of their owner (McCalls.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 06-11-2007, 10:07 PM (13 of 21)
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It not only varies from company to company, but from design to design. I've said this before, but I'll say it again. If it is a top, I pull the front pattern piece and check the finished measurements that are printed on that pattern piece (which is the finished bust measurment; if it is a skirt, I pull the front pattern piece and check the finished measurement (hip). That is the only way I"m getting clothes to fit me that I make and I keep checking the measurements of the garment I'm constructing against my own measurement as I go and adjust accordingly and trust me, I've done some pretty crazy adjustments as I sew. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: EmaCon
Date: 06-12-2007, 04:39 AM (14 of 21)
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Did I answer your questions? Absolutely. And it generated responses that were interesting to me as well about fitting and pattern adjustments. It's odd though that it fit the first time and not the 2nd. The reason I asked is because I have been religiously reading Kathleen Fasanella's blog on www.fashion-incubator.com which tends to support the frustrations I have with home sewing. She's a professional garment-industry pattern maker and I'm learning an incredible amount about correct pattern making, precise cutting and standardized sewing techniques and how that influences the final sewn product i.e. the ease of sewing and the final look of the garment. So, when you mentioned the gap at the arm hole I started thinking that maybe it's the pattern's fault and not necessarily your sewing skills. I may have to start another thread on my complaints of the home sewing industry. (Such a kvetch) |
User: EmaCon
Member since: 07-28-2006 Total posts: 67 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-12-2007, 08:29 AM (15 of 21)
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EmaCon- I often have the same pattern fit a little different when I make it a second time. It's because I cut it a little different each time. Usually I try to improve it the second time but sometimes I'm sloppy. It happens a lot less since I started using a rotary cutter rather than scissors (the sloppy cutting thing) -- but it still happens. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-12-2007, 08:42 AM (16 of 21)
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Fabric choices can also make a HUGE difference in the pattern.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: lendube
Date: 06-12-2007, 12:43 PM (17 of 21)
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The dress and the top were both out of 100% cotton but maybe I was sloppy, maybe not on the grain line properly, maybe just the quality of the fabric........ Who knows??? Lennie |
User: lendube
Member since: 08-06-2006 Total posts: 1548 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 06-12-2007, 04:52 PM (18 of 21)
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I had this problem once or twice, and I took the cowardly way out.. Took the facing loose for a little way and sewed a strip of 1/4 inch elastic along the seamline to take up the slack..(about 2 or 3 inches of elastic) Then tacked the facing back down.. Worked like a charm..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: lendube
Date: 06-12-2007, 09:52 PM (19 of 21)
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I've done that with gaping small of the back rtw waistbands. Lennie |
User: lendube
Member since: 08-06-2006 Total posts: 1548 |
From: PaulineG
Date: 06-13-2007, 02:54 AM (20 of 21)
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I've done that with gaping small of the back rtw waistbands. Lennie Ah - good idea - I have a sway back (or big behind - take your pick) and often have gaping at the back waistline. On the whole gap issue - did you happen to try on the dress you made from those pattern pieces on the same day as you noticed the top gaping. I have noticed on some days that the fluid retention is so extreme it can make a few cms difference in measurements - particularly around the bust. Alas for me it is often more noticeable on one side than the other. And I remember you saying recently you had a bit of PMS - maybe you were a bit puffy that day. Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: lendube
Date: 06-13-2007, 11:58 AM (21 of 21)
Yeah, huffy and puffy!  Good point. I did retain a lot of water this month.......... Interesting. Lennie |
User: lendube
Member since: 08-06-2006 Total posts: 1548 |
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