Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
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From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 06-19-2007, 07:19 AM (1 of 22)
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It has been years since I have done one, and I would like to do one on an outfit I am working on.
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
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User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006 Total posts: 49 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 06-19-2007, 08:34 AM (2 of 22)
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Practice a little on scrap of your fashion fabric first and you'll be fine. You'll get the hang of it fast -- it's an easy thing to do and you will get the settings right before you start. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: toadusew
Date: 06-19-2007, 08:35 AM (3 of 22)
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The way I do my blind hems is that I serge finish the raw edge of the garment (usually a skirt) and then I press up the hem to make it easier for the hand hemming. Then I turn up the the finished edge of the hem about 1/4 inch or so and take a small stitch in the garment and take a small "bite"/stitch in the fold of the turned up part moving ahead a little bit, working my way around the skirt/garment. Once the hem is finished, I go around the skirt and smooth down the turned up part and then give it a good press on both sides. If you have a blind hem stitch and a blind hem foot for your sewing machine, that would be faster and easier, but I find it a bit trickier to get the fabric folded correctly for the machine blind hem stitch. I prefer to hand hem myself. I hope this made sense and helps a little. I'm sure that Pam can help clarify this for you if I haven't made sense. She really gives great explanations! 
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User: toadusew
Member since: 01-08-2005 Total posts: 369 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-19-2007, 11:24 AM (4 of 22)
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I do my blind hems on the machine. Like Toad, I, too finish the top of my hem with the serger and press it into place. Then I machine baste (extra long basting stitch) my hem into place 3/8 of an inch from the top of the hem. Once the hem has been prepared, I put the HEMSIDE of the garment face down on the machine bed and fold the garment back, using the 3/8 of an inch as the fold guide. I set the blade of the blind stitch foot on the fold of the garment. The foot should sew on the hem side, taking 3 or so stitches (may vary by machine). Then the machine will jump with a zig zag into the fold of the garment. This jump should be just a tiny little "nip" into the fold...too deep causes a "l" type look to the hem...too little will not "bite" but it should just lightly nip the fabric and then jump back. If you do this correctly, you can have an entire hem done from foldup and press to finish in about 8 min or less. The actual stitching should take about 2-3 min at most. Heavy fabric will take a deeper "bite" light weight cottons can be the most difficult to get regulated because of the depth of the fabric. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-19-2007, 11:57 AM (5 of 22)
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I like blind hems not because they are faster -- although that is nice as you near the end of a project -- but because when I hand hem I forget to make a knot every five or six stitches so if it snags on something the whole hem comes out. With a machine hem that doesn't happen. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MaryW
Date: 06-19-2007, 12:34 PM (6 of 22)
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I think one of the hints is to loosen your top tension. Correct me if I am wrong.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: toadusew
Date: 06-19-2007, 05:33 PM (7 of 22)
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Dorothy has a great idea about practicing on scraps first. See, I told you that Pam gave really great instructions! 
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User: toadusew
Member since: 01-08-2005 Total posts: 369 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 06-20-2007, 10:55 AM (8 of 22)
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Mary, Tension adjustment on my Janome is automatic.. And, it always works properly..I was amazed when I first bought it, but now its just an everyday occurence.. Today , you made me appreciate it all over again.. Thanks! !
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: wghmch
Date: 06-20-2007, 09:40 PM (9 of 22)
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This is in addition to, NOT in place of, the good advice you have already received. I am strictly a mechanic, and do not pretend to know or want to know a great deal about sewing. HOWEVER, I do have the background of people coming into our store for almost 40 years, and many of them were discouraged about the results they got when machine blind hemming. Almost universally, the complaint was that they were getting too deep a bite when the needle jumped over to catch the fold/roll of the fabric. Here is the "secret" that almost always solved the problem: Don't look at the needle! Once you get everything set up and know that the needle is aligned to catch the fold, you have to trust that it will do so, and fix your eye on where the fold is entering the blind hem foot. If you allow your eyes to stray to the needle, it will be so difficult to see that it is catching the fabric that your eyes will tell your brain that it isn't catching and your brain will tell your fingers to push the fabric to the right, and you will catch too much fabric. It is difficult to convince your eyes to stay away from the needle, but if you practice on some scraps and are happy with the results, your brain will be on your side, and tell your eyes to stay where they belong. Bill Holman |
User: wghmch
Member since: 03-04-2003 Total posts: 249 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-20-2007, 09:59 PM (10 of 22)
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Once I have my needle depth set, I always concentrate on keeping the fabric straight on the right hand side. If I don't waver there and I have the fold set correctly, I have nothing else to worry about. The basted line will help with the garment side. Always take time to check the first few stitches to make sure that everything is right and you are good to go.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-21-2007, 07:09 AM (11 of 22)
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That's great advice, Bill. I don't have problems with the blind hem because I reset and practice on scrap fabric until it is set right then concentrate on keeping the fabric straight as it goes in and comes out from under the needle. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: EmaCon
Date: 06-21-2007, 07:27 AM (12 of 22)
| Thanks, Bill. I've always had a problem with too large a bite on my blind hem and I'd given up on it so I'm going to practise NOT looking at it as you suggest. |
User: EmaCon
Member since: 07-28-2006 Total posts: 67 |
From: michel
Date: 06-21-2007, 04:50 PM (13 of 22)
| ooohhh I wanna try, but I think I'm getting in over my head! One step at a time. |
User: michel
Member since: 05-14-2007 Total posts: 10 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 06-21-2007, 05:10 PM (14 of 22)
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I've got a couple of pairs of pants to hem and have been putting them off for a month or so...just didn't want to take the time to sew them by hand. Now you've given me the incentive to try them by machine....I'll let you all know if I actually get down and do it when I get home.
TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 
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From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 06-22-2007, 08:12 AM (15 of 22)
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Thanks guys I will let you know how it goes.
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
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User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006 Total posts: 49
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From: marymacnannymac
Date: 06-22-2007, 10:11 AM (16 of 22)
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I just found the easiest way to blind hem. I used fusible thread in the lower looper of my serger, turned up the desired width of hem, then pressed with hot steam iron and voila, the hem is finished. If you don't have a serger it can be used in your sewing machine. Using a fairly tight zigzag stitch, as the more fusible thread showing the better the bond. Try it on a scrap first if zigzagging to check the amount of fusible thread visible. The fusible thread is suppose to be washable and drycleanable. Hope this helps, sure saves a lot of time. Mary, Nova Scotia, Canada |
User: marymacnannymac
Member since: 12-26-2006 Total posts: 1 |
From: MaryW
Date: 06-22-2007, 10:42 AM (17 of 22)
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Well hello from another Mary in Nova Scotia.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: bosco_ette
Date: 06-22-2007, 11:51 AM (18 of 22)
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Agree with all the info..For straight hems it is much nicer looking... but just wanted to add if you can see the thread from the right side when it is finished check to see if the color is correct. I have used a different color sometimes on the bobbin than on the top depending on the printed fabric I was choosing to hem. Solid colors are simple but stripes or prints or checks can show up more when the colors come across the contrasting color. It wont be exact but maybe better. those times it might be better to hand sew if you are good at it. I always prefer to machine stitch when ever possible. I didn't use it on a skirt or dress where the hem is much wider than the area I would be sewing it. (flared, paneled, gores etc.)
15 mintues a day minimum.. get to your studio and make something!
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User: bosco_ette
Member since: 06-14-2007 Total posts: 16 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-22-2007, 12:14 PM (19 of 22)
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If you use a thread to pull up the excess, it is quite possible to be successful on a fuller type skirt with the machine blind hem. Probably at least 90% of all the hems I put in while I was sewing professionally were machine blind hems.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 06-22-2007, 12:49 PM (20 of 22)
Well I just wanted to report that I successfully shortened and machine hemmed my two pair of pants last night...and the bonus is that I got to wear a new outfit today!  Many thanks Pam for the tip on machine basting 3/8" from the edge!!! That made it so easy to keep an even sewn hem line and eliminated past issues with pins getting in the way, falling out and sticking into me!
TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366
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From: paroper
Date: 06-22-2007, 01:15 PM (21 of 22)
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So glad you had success!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: daff55odil
Date: 06-29-2007, 03:54 PM (22 of 22)
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I have bought myself a machine that will do blind hemming in a matter of seconds, I don`t know how i manged without it. (from ebay)
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User: daff55odil
Member since: 05-15-2006 Total posts: 18 |
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