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From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 06-19-2007, 01:13 PM (1 of 8)
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Okay...so I'm making the dresses for a wedding - one wedding dress, going smoothly, and three bridesmaid's dresses. Bride picked out a pattern, no problem, pretty easy dress (Simplicity New Look 6557...no clue how to post the pic here because of how Simplicity has their website, but if you go to this page: http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=thumbnail.cfm&cat=6&type=0&sec=66&StartRow=19 it's in the middle row on the left, view B). Anyway. I'm ahead on the wedding dress, so I decided to start on the bridesmaid's dresses last night. She chose a really decent quality crepe-back satin in black, so it will have a really nice drape. So...I go to start laying it out, and it has the skirt back on the cross-grain. As in, don't fold fabric in half, but fold it back on itself and lay out the back skirt piece even with the cross-grain. The skirt front goes on the fold, and the layout shows it either with normal layout (material in half) or as on the cross grain. Am I making any sense here? Man, I hope so. Now here's my problem. Satin has a most definite nap. I'm worried about how the light will catch the satin weave...and make it look really crappy if (1) they aren't cut on the same grainline, and (2) if they're cut on the cross-grain. The satin weave lines would run horizontal across the back piece if I cut it on the cross grain. It makes MUCH more sense to me to cut it on the grain and have the satin weave running vertical, especially if the light hit it. The bodice pieces are cut with the grain, which confuses me even more - why would you have the weave running different with the skirt as to the bodice? Now, I understand if you aren't making it out of satin (or any definite nap) - it just wouldn't matter (although I still don't see the logic in doing this). Can you think of any reason why they'd have the back piece cut on the cross grain and not on the true grain? The skirt is full enough that the bias falls into really nice folds, so it's not really to manipulate the bias that I can see. This has just flummoxed me - and I didn't want to cut it out "normal" until I had a second (or third) opinion.  Thanks in advance...maybe I was just too tired to figure it out on my own. Kris Kris
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User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 53 
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From: MaryW
Date: 06-19-2007, 01:31 PM (2 of 8)
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Maybe to save on fabric that has no nap or weave.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: paroper
Date: 06-19-2007, 02:45 PM (3 of 8)
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This is interesting. The McCalls version of that pattern has the same thing but the skirt center is cut on the fold of the cross grain with the back cut from the opposite direction going into the skirt like a wave. I'm sure that I'm not clear on that...but you open the fabric up to the cross grain. You put the back on the cross grain on one side; on the opposite side you then cut and recut the center on the cross grain fold; then again on the opposite side of the fabric lay the other back (flipped over) section on the same side as the first back piece. I think that this is probably a better solution to your problem rather than cutting the front on the lengthwise straight of grain and the back on the cross grain. I was a little surprised to see this pattern was not on the bias of the fabric. I haven't made this pattern yet (not too excited about doing it now either). pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 06-19-2007, 08:03 PM (4 of 8)
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I thought it was to save on fabric at first, too - but even on the instructions it says to cut that way with fabric with nap. I'm so confused... And when I first agreed to the pattern, I thought the skirt would be bias cut, too, just from the way it drapes. The only piece cut on bias is the center midriff part - in front only. The top is all cut straight grain. I understand your explanation on the cut. I'm still not positive if that's the way I want to go...I just have this gut feeling that the weave will look bad when the light hits it just right, because it will send the weave horizontal. I think I'll sleep on it again tonight. I do have 10 yards to play with for 3 dresses...I may have to cut one out and see how it looks. Thanks! Kris
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User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 53
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From: paroper
Date: 06-19-2007, 08:35 PM (5 of 8)
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The bad news is that the Simplicity and the McCalls patterns appear to be the same cut....that means that if there is one for Butterick and Vogue they are also cut the same way, but you could always go see if they have one and pull the guide sheets to find out.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: IsabelleB
Date: 06-21-2007, 02:29 AM (6 of 8)
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Kris, I'm not sure I can help you about the satin's nap, because I made that pattern one year ago and can't for the life of me remember how I cut the skirt. However, I do want to set your heart at rest concerning the beauty of the pattern. I made that dress twice, and I'm not a pattern repeater. That tells you how much I liked that one. You can see both dresses here: http://e-zabelle.blogspot.com/2006/06/olivia-dress.html HTH. Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 06-22-2007, 09:07 PM (7 of 8)
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Isabelle - thanks for the link! Your dresses turned out stunning! I was surprised at first when she originally chose this pattern, but the lines are so simple and she really liked it as a bridesmaid's dress. Yours really looks terrific! As far as the layout goes, I've done some research and come to the conclusion....that Mary was right and it was done that way to save on fabric. I took Pam's advice and hit JoAnn's to look up similar patterns - every single one is laid out the same way I described. I looked very closely, did some online searches...and I've decided to take the plunge and cut it out on the fabric grain (not cross grain) so the satin weave doesn't look wonky. I just couldn't bear the idea of having the weaves going different directions. If pics were taken and the lighting angle was just so, her bridesmaid's dresses would look horrible. I'm going to cut one out tonight and see how it goes together. I have time...the wedding's in August (11th) and her other two bridemaid's aren't getting into the STATE (for one, into the COUNTRY) until August 3rd. Yep, you read that right. I'll have about 5 or 6 days to get two bridemaid's dresses fitted and hemmed. I told her I have every intention of having her dress and the 3rd bridesmaid's dress done by the end of July. No clue why I agreed to this... Oh yeah. Now I do. That money will go well towards helping us pay off some bills...Thanks for the ideas...I sure was stumped on that one! Kris
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User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 53
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From: MaryW
Date: 06-26-2007, 08:44 AM (8 of 8)
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Maybe it was intentional to show the contrast.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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