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From: paroper
Date: 06-21-2007, 09:46 PM (1 of 26)
There is a new line of patterns that is being added to the Butterick group. They are in the pattern catalogs this month (only a few). The patterns are designed by Connie Crawford and they go all the way from Size 3/4-size 42/44W or from XS/TP to 6X.

They are said to be "modern Fit with Ready to Wear Sizing.

I went to Hancocks today and bought the four patterns that I could find.

I haven't had time to try these, but, ladies, if these are good sizing, we need to tell the pattern companies this is what we want by purchasing them. Butterick patterns are a dollar at Hancocks this week. I think they may be 99 cents at Joann's. This is a great time to try them out!!!!!!

The patterns at the moment are pretty basic wardrobe, although they have some style to them. The numbers are in a range from about B5047 or so to about B5053...at least they are all together and they all have green on the top left corner so they stand out.

I would not have expected Butterick to be the company these would be marketed though first but this is a GREAT first step!!!!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-22-2007, 12:00 AM (2 of 26)
I beat you to it and bought one last weekend. Joann Fabrics -- 99 cents.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: toadusew
Date: 06-22-2007, 07:21 AM (3 of 26)
I'll be interested to know what you ladies think about these patterns after you have made the garment. It would be so much easier if patterns were closer to ready to wear sizing because there would be less pattern altering time and more actual sewing!:bluewink:
User: toadusew
Member since: 01-08-2005
Total posts: 369
From: Patty22
Date: 06-22-2007, 07:45 AM (4 of 26)
I had gotten an email from Simplicity last week of their association with the Canadian company Unique (or something along those lines) who scans your body and you can then order patterns made according to your body measurements. Now you can order Simplicity patterns and those will also be resized for you. I searched the site for where a body scanner would be and there isn't anything remotely close in our area.

Otherwise I have had the best results with Silouette Patterns as you make it according to the garment's finished size, not your body measurements.
Patty
User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006
Total posts: 1194
From: MaryW
Date: 06-22-2007, 10:46 AM (5 of 26)
I would also be anxiously awaiting your opinion. Perhaps there is light at the end of the tunnel yet.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: Mom of Six
Date: 06-22-2007, 10:50 AM (6 of 26)
I am hoping to get to JoAnns tonight. I will check them out. I need something to wear to my nephews wedding in July. DD has picked out a pattern & needs to pick the material. I need an idea for myself!!!! How do you think that wrap dress would look on my 50YO size 22 body(was a 26 last year! I have lost 35 pounds).
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!!
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001
Total posts: 1115
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-22-2007, 11:38 AM (7 of 26)
I'm not expecting to use mine for a couple months.
And I can't help you with a comparison to ready to wear since I haven't bought ready to wear in years.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: Marlyn
Date: 06-22-2007, 12:31 PM (8 of 26)
I would love nothing more than to find a ready to wear pattern! As I had been away from sewing for sometime, I found it most depressing when I returned to find I have to fit my patterns to my measurements, sometimes not as accurately as I would like. I have always allowed a little extra in the seams and then adjusted once I tried it on, but am finding this is not the case with the current pattern trend.

I wear one size off the rack, but then find I have to make my patterns two sizes larger ... very depressing.
User: Marlyn
Member since: 06-11-2004
Total posts: 37
From: Mom of Six
Date: 06-22-2007, 02:18 PM (9 of 26)
Here is the wrap dress pattern. I thought it was in the new Connie Crawford Collection but I was wrong.
http://www.butterick.com/item/B5030.htm?tab=whats_new&page=1

Here are some other ideas I am tossing around.
http://www.butterick.com/item/B5049.htm?tab=connie_crawford&page=1

http://www.butterick.com/item/B5001.htm?tab=large_sizes&page=1

this top & I would make a skirt or some very dressy pants to go with it
http://www.butterick.com/item/B4469.htm?tab=large_sizes&page=4

http://www.butterick.com/item/B4143.htm?tab=large_sizes&page=5


Let me know what you think! I have no idea what color or fabric I will use. The wedding party is in a dusty pink. So I will probably stay away from all pink. Maybe a blue or green.
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!!
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001
Total posts: 1115
From: Patty22
Date: 06-22-2007, 03:14 PM (10 of 26)
Barb....I like B5049....because how formal or informal it looks depends upon your fabric choice; I could see the jacket fabric just making this dress.

I had made a jacket for my daughter to wear to wedding years ago and since I couldn't find the right fabric I used a contrasting lace overlay over the solid dress fabric and it turned out gorgeous.

Anyway......I think I'll check out the patterns myself :)
Patty
User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006
Total posts: 1194
From: Mom of Six
Date: 06-22-2007, 03:41 PM (11 of 26)
I think that was the one I was leaning towards but I don't want it to look like a tent (I wore those for to many years). I think I will make the more fitted veiw & possibly a jacket to go over it in a print. I do have a piece of navy fabric that I bought at WalMart I'm not sure what the content is but it washed beautifully & has a nice feel to it. Maybe I will look for a print voile for the jacket.
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!!
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001
Total posts: 1115
From: NoBody'sPerfect
Date: 06-22-2007, 03:45 PM (12 of 26)
I'd love to hear how the Connie Crawford patterns work out. For me, I would still have to make an adjustment for proper fit. I buy size 12 in ready to wear skirts or slacks but need a 14 for top because of my bust area. Even then, I don't have adequate fullness in the bust area (D cup). These new patterns have no darts in the bust area and only one (5047) has princess seaming which makes for an easier adjustment. Because I am short (only 5') I need fitting in the waist and bust area as opposed to loose fitting garments.
Of course, with my "mature" figure, there are other minor adjustments I need to make in the shoulder area as well.
I recently purchased the "Fit For Real People" DVD by Palmer Pletsch and I love the close up directions for adding to the bust area.
User: NoBody'sPerfect
Member since: 06-01-2007
Total posts: 6
From: Patty22
Date: 06-22-2007, 04:01 PM (13 of 26)
Barb....I was looking at the conceptual drawing rather than the pattern. You're right.....I wouldn't want a tent....or a circus tent......or anything close to it :nervous: and maternity clothes weren't pretty when I was pregnant, even though I tried to dress them up when I made them.

Can't wait to see what you make!
Patty
User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006
Total posts: 1194
From: grandson
Date: 06-22-2007, 04:26 PM (14 of 26)
Hello all, I have a friend who is very very hard to fit. She gets her patterns from unique patterns. www.uniquepattern.com You send them your measurements and they make your pattern. A little more expensive but we like it cause she can hand me the pattern and material and in a couple of hours or course depending on what we are making but it is all done. Check it out. Cheryl
User: grandson
Member since: 06-14-2005
Total posts: 5
From: Cathie.Tombs
Date: 06-22-2007, 04:37 PM (15 of 26)
The 99 cents is appealing. But, I am not "sold" on these patterns, especially, without darts. (Haven't tried them). I think we must forget about RTW numbers, and just make what fits. A pattern is, for me, only a jumping off point. Although I always considered myself not "spacially" gifted, out of necessity I am learning about pattern making. Curvy with a 46 D bust I have to. I have lots of "better" RTW clothes (better rummage), and, the same fitting issues plague them as in patterns. There is much to learn re: tweaking/altering. And, the posters who want some discreet fit (v.s. tent look) are so right.
User: Cathie.Tombs
Member since: 08-27-2006
Total posts: 44
From: PaulineG
Date: 06-23-2007, 10:22 AM (16 of 26)
Barb, 5049 was actually the one I liked the least - I'd go for either the first top (the view in the photo or view A in the second top - but not with the assymetrical skirt) or the third dress. That's just me though.

BTW - well done on the weight - that's fantastic. Maybe the dress shouldn't be too fitted in case it ends up too big for you.
Pauline
User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006
Total posts: 901
From: paroper
Date: 06-23-2007, 10:29 AM (17 of 26)
I kind of like 4143 View A. I'm not sure which skirt I like. I also like the third dress pattern with the black and white dress (think that was third) and I like all the views. I just don't like the black and white print. It is too busy for that person in that pattern. To me it makes her look shorter.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: blackie
Date: 06-23-2007, 01:49 PM (18 of 26)
I am currently reading FFRP so I suppose I'm biased. But I can't wondering what possible benefit there is for pattern companies to change their sizing. It seems like for years now their sizing has been relatively standardized. Vanity sizing - or whatever reason RTW began to deviate from patterns - is the "fault" or problem of the RTW market. I am used to thinking I'm a size 12 but if I have to be a size 20 when I sew, as long as I know this and learn how to sew for myself, what is the problem?

Size is just a number, and it seems to me once we know what our number is for patterns (however much we don't like that number) we should stick to it and sew away!

And then we run into the real tricky stuff - learning fit and alteration, which is SO difficult for me! I have to admit it has been frustrating for me to learn to sew for myself. But it has been frustrating for me to try on clothes in the shop, too! If I am going to be different than the norm and embark on learning to sew for myself, how horrid is it really I learn a different set of numbers? (P.S. even RTW has sometimes told me my body was merely a size 9 up to a size 16 - it isn't as if I've had totally consistent results in the mall changing booths either!).

Pam, I am particularly interested in why you think this is a good thing because I know you are very experienced and I always enjoy your information, if at times it overwhelms me (as a novice)!
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: paroper
Date: 06-23-2007, 02:14 PM (19 of 26)
Your logic is perfect and I find absolutely no fault with it. Over the years I have found that the further on the small side from size 14, the bigger the difference in sizing. As you approach size 14, the sizes start to even out a bit and as you get up into the 20's, the pattern sizing is actually pretty close to RTW, whether we like it or not...there are also big differences as you approach size 14 in pattern sizing. Instead of dealing with 1 inch differences in body vs pattern recommended measurments, you start getting 2 inch differences. My guess is that the reason is because when New sizing began, which by the way, was a huge change, because the vintage sizes are much smaller and different proportioned (women wore a lot of stays and girdles), busts are smaller and so are the waists. Anyway, at that time, even as early as 15 years ago, when I started sewing for the public, size 14 was often the end of the line for the majority of the patterns. It was said that the pattern companies would only make them "up to the size that the dress looked best". Of course, you only bought 1 size at a time, so if you were a size 14 bust and a size 20 hip, you took your best shot. Yes, there were some patterns that might go up to 16, sometimes 18 and once in a while you might find a size 20, but those were the exception, not the rule.

I think it is a good thing because there is such a difference in rack sizing and pattern sizes in the smaller sizes. The majority of younger people are smaller sized, just fact. They get terribly discouraged when they go to the pattern catalogs and find that their rack size 0 is really a pattern size 6 or 8 (and they will, if they check their sizing). They do not understand the "ease thing" and for them, making a garment is hugely discouraging if they just buy a pattern and make it and it doesn't work or they can't wear it. Most of them don't even know how to find a garment that is properly fitted, so when they actually make one, they may not realize that is how a garment is supposed to feel and look (they usually use their ease to make the size smaller).

The other reason I think this is good is because there is such a difference in the overall build of women over what was common 45 years ago or so when this was started. Just as women had changed in the 60's they are changing again, something that the RTW market has responded to in different ways, but the pattern companies have pretty much resisted. However some pattern companies have been responding in a "silent" way to this change...making patterns that are wildly different than their advertised measurments; this is worse than being open about it!

And yes, that is a good book, I don't think I have ever just sat down and read it, but it has excellent points.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: blackie
Date: 06-23-2007, 10:21 PM (20 of 26)
Wow Pam, thanks!

Are you saying that after you are larger than a size 14 in patterns, the pattern sizes stop changing in increments of 1" or so and start being larger increments of 2" or so? Why is this? And how does this effect the 14-and-over patterns for fit?

The size 'that the dress looked best' is sad. I mean it wouldn't be sad if there were pattern companies stepping in and providing patterns / dresses for larger women. There is some of this in RTW of course too; as a 12 RTW I often am at the "largest" end of the clothes I like; it seems like next stop, muumuu (and I'm slightly too small for some of those lines like Lane Bryant etc).

As far as young people being discouraged when they go from a 0 to an 8, I am tempted to say, "Get over it!" Young ladies (and especially Caucasian ones) are the hardest on their bodies and often have very negative self-images. Can you imagine how nice it would be if more young ladies *knew* their bodies, knew their measurements and their unique fit needs, without judgment but with pride in their own shape? Accepting both their bodies and their mothers' (whose physique they will likely gravitate to) and learning to sew as a way to express themselves?

I can dream, can't I? And I'll get off the soapbox now.

I am curious about this "silent" response to sizing issues. I agree, that does sound like a bad thing. Disclosure is always better.
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: paroper
Date: 06-23-2007, 10:43 PM (21 of 26)
My only guess is that since the "over 14 patterns were more or less added after the size 14's were the "large-ended standard" (I wish) that they made the patterns more in line with the RTW using some sort of compromise sizing with what made sense with the other pattern sizes and what was current with the RTW at the time. After all, at one point RTW and patterns were the same.

I personally don't have a problem with the patterns being a different size and I totally agree that women, especially American women and girls are too "up tight" about their clothing and bodies...but on the other hand, I do understand how younger women can become discouraged when many of them just pick up a sewing machine at a garage sale or in the bottom of Mom's closet and decide to start sewing right now, without a clue about patterns, sizes, etc. No wonder so many are trying to design their own, they don't have a clue how to measure or use a pattern!

Unfortunately, I'm well past muu muu...so I"m very interested in this new pattern sizing which will make (I hope) alterations a little easier. When I was sewing for people I spent a lot of time studying larger women's bodies trying to make "mental dress alterations"...it's one of those silly little games I do, but it is actually the way I study things liike alterations. As the women start to tip the scale over say, size 22 or so, there are very different types of physical flaws that become more pronounced. It is an interesting phenomenon. When you look at smaller bodies, you have only a few basic types, but in the more endowed woman, you have multiple body types with different types of alterations problems. I think that is why the pattern companies for so long have offered tents in 16-32. Although I'm not yet thrilled with the new patterns (design-wise), I certainly think it is a step in hopefully the right direction and hopefully, if we show pleasure by purchasing these patterns, the designs will become more interesting. On the other hand, when they are made up, the patterns may actually be more interesting. Until I've done a couple, I more or less reserve judgement. Arms are one of my serious pattern areas. I was pleased to see that they have made optional allotments for the women with larger than usual arms. I also am most anxious to try the pants pattern. I have purchased some very nice fabric for the pants and jacket. I've been wanting to put the Hatched in Africa Peacock on a jacket back for some time. With fall a couple months away, this may be the one!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Mom of Six
Date: 06-23-2007, 11:52 PM (22 of 26)
I checked my measurements on the new patterns. I need a miss's XL for my bust measurement & a women's 2Xl in waist & hips. My main problem is that I have wide shoulders & when I make a pattern & forget to add to the back seam it is too tight across the sleeve area. & the bust on larger sizes is usually way too busty for my B cup. I really don't care what size I make I just want it to fit when I get done. I think I am going to have to teach DD(15) how to fit patterns to other people because I can't do my back alone. I did buy 2 of the new patterns today I bought the one for slacks & the dress/jacket one( I am going to try the one with waist darts). I bought both sizes of each so I can combine if I need to & also they will be good for DDs in the smaller size. I hope to sew most of this week since the wedding is in 2 weeks.
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!!
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001
Total posts: 1115
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 06-30-2007, 11:34 AM (23 of 26)
I bought two of those patterns last week at Hancocks for $ 1.00.. I don't have the number in front of me, but I made the t-shirt from the pattern with pants in it.. Made a size XL (16).. It is almost a perfect fit for me.. The surprising fact is --- it is short enough... I cut it exactly by the pattern.. I stitched a narrow elastic on when I applied the neckband and then when I folded it over, I finished it with the coverstitch. That I am not so happy with.. The elastic is too heavy there.. Next time I will just stitch over a piece of elastic thread or use twill tape to stabilise the neck.. I used twill tape on the shoulder seams because I always do on a knit shirt..I really like the way it fits.. I think I will probably be in between that size and the next smaller size for a perfect fit.. As most of you know I have just lost 30 pounds, so I am not the best person to compare to my "regular size", because I am still trying to find what that is right now.. The next thing I intend to do is make a pair of pants, and I am seriously considering trying to change these to an elastic waist. The elastic waist only comes in the larger size pattern.. (for plus sizes).. I am trying these out with fabrics from my stash, till I find out how they fit.. I love my t-shirt.. I made it from a really colorful print single knit that is pretty lightweight.. Great for these 90 plus degree days we are having right now.. If you use the shirt pattern and are tall, better add a little length.. I am only 5 feet tall , and the length was perfect for me..
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: Longblades
Date: 06-30-2007, 03:24 PM (24 of 26)
"As you approach size 14, the sizes start to even out a bit and as you get up into the 20's, the pattern sizing is actually pretty close to RTW"

That is so interesting, I didn't know that. Some female relatives of DH who sew were mystified when I said I had to sew a larger size than I buy in the store. Now I know why.
User: Longblades
Member since: 07-14-2005
Total posts: 182
From: VenusElaine
Date: 07-01-2007, 05:28 PM (25 of 26)
Pattern sizes have been standardized for many years.
RTW is whatever number the designer decides to slap on it, and generally, the more you pay the "smaller" you are.

In RTW, my Riders jeans are 14, my Old Navy are 12. My tops are always a 20-24 (G cup).

I buy my patterns according to measurements, alter accordingly (I only need more room in the front of my tops), and pay no attention to the size. It is only a number, and I don't care what it is, as long as it fits!

VenusElaine
"Always put as much effort into your marriage as you do into your wedding."
User: VenusElaine
Member since: 10-22-2005
Total posts: 126
From: plrlegal
Date: 07-01-2007, 10:57 PM (26 of 26)
VenusElaine your measurements sound like close to mine before I made a visit to a friendly plastic surgeon and mamaplasty as couple of years ago.:bluesmile Those kind of fitting hassles are behind me now and I'm loving it. Now I need to make a visit to him for lyposuction around the middle!!!

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
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