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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: PaulineG
Date: 06-23-2007, 09:57 AM (1 of 6)
I'm making dd a lovely coat for winter. Pink wool in a fairly loose crochet weave with a polar fleece lining. I've decided to knit a trim for it for around the edges that looks a bit like maribou. I'm using this partly because it's tons cheaper but also because it will wash well. This has presented a problem of it's own. I'm not sure on the best way to attach it. I could handsew it but am trying to avoid it. I've already attached the lining part of the way (side, sleeve and shoulder seams)but have not yet done the sleeve hems and along the lapels and hems. I've sort of treated the lining and outer as one because I couldn't find a pattern I liked and so I made my own and am making up the assembly as I go along :shock: .

I have two issues - firstly the best way (if there is one) of machine stitching the trim without it catching in the presser foot or feed dogs (it's quite loose and fluffy). Second is the order of stitching - should I attach the trim to the outer and then finish the lining and outer edges after - how do I manage this without catching the trim. I don't really want my trim stitches to show through on the lining fabric.

Hope someone has a brilliant idea.
Pauline
User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006
Total posts: 901
From: mommydionne
Date: 06-23-2007, 01:38 PM (2 of 6)
:bg: I'd handsew it myself.... maybe pam will have a good idea, sounds pretty
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-23-2007, 02:13 PM (3 of 6)
That's exactly what I was going to say, Jeanette.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: paroper
Date: 06-27-2007, 09:49 AM (4 of 6)
I just saw your post (sorry). I'd use Wonder Tape to position the trim and I'd probably use adding machine tape on top, aligned with the edge of the trim to sew it to the garment. The problem with the adding machine tape might be that you couldn't separate the fibers as you sew. Without seeing the trim, it is hard to tell if that you fully answer your problem or not. Another thing that might help is if you have a foot that doesn't have points. I have a number 12 Bernina foot that is smooth in the front (no toes). It is a beading foot but I might try it, if I had your problem to see if it would allow my trim to feed without catching. Another foot that might help is a teflon foot that has "toes" but gives the fabric a degree of slippage.

In nearly every case, I add the trim to the top of the garment after the seams have been sewn and before the lining. This helps with positioning and draws less attention to the seams. In some cases I add the trim before the side seam is sewn OR I open the side seam just enough to "poke" the ends of the trim through and sew the seam last...this also helps with getting the trim at the same level.

You'll probably need to lighten the presser foot on this project if I am picturing it correctly. Another factor is that many machine companies make feet for specific purposes. For instance, a run and fell foot is made for making flat fell seams. One side of the foot is higher than the other to allow the depth of the flat fell seam and allow it to pass under the foot smoothly. Feet that are meant for sewing trims or beads are tunneled all the way through to allow the thicker portion of the trim to pass without as much pressure. If your trim is wide and fluffy and you plan to sew it on both sides, you may find that a run and fell foot may allow it to best pass under your machine without slippage or stretch, it might even help with the looseness of the trim.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: mommydionne
Date: 06-29-2007, 07:57 PM (5 of 6)
:bg: told'ya she'd have a good idea!
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: PaulineG
Date: 06-30-2007, 05:40 AM (6 of 6)
I'm getting closer to putting it into action too. If I could just get this **^&^% knitting finished. It escapes me why people enjoy it. Unfortunately one of my lengths has a section in it that looks a bit ... well, bald. The yarn is very hairy but obviously there was a bit that wasn't quite as hairy as the rest and I didn't notice it unitl later. I'd claim responsibility myself but I just can't see how I could've done it. Probably only a day or two of knitting left (I'm really slow and I can't do too much at a time because it makes my RSI flare up). I also plant to knit a test length to try the stitching on. Stay tuned.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Pauline
User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006
Total posts: 901
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