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The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
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which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: LegalDealer
Date: 07-03-2007, 09:33 PM (1 of 10)
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I am having trouble fitting my muslin on pattern M5138 view B. I am using size 12 (the largest on this pattern) but my bust size is a 14, waist is the 12. So I need to make adjustments. I sewed up a muslin and it fits too tight in the torso and bust. Should I decrease the point of the side bust darts and the under bust darts, or the back darts too? Do I just decrease the outer point of the dart, or do I have to change the darts angle (of the triangle?). Take in less for both front piece darts is what I am thinking and have all the dart points farther away from my breast point, leave the back alone and try using just a quarter inch seem allowance to give more ease room. Just all guesses since this is my first shirt. I really need this to work out because my last project, a dress came out terrible. I might have to go back to quilting! Thanks for your help |
User: LegalDealer
Member since: 10-19-2006 Total posts: 27 
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From: EmaCon
Date: 07-04-2007, 02:13 PM (2 of 10)
| Nice blouse. I am by no means a fitting expert but you will have to give yourself more circumference around the bust. Try making 1/4 " seam allowances at the sides, tapering to the 5/8" by your waist, before you start playing with the darts. Don't underestimate how important it is to fit the back. You actually need more ease there because your arms need to come forward and the fabric ease in the back will allow you to do this without feeling strained. |
User: EmaCon
Member since: 07-28-2006 Total posts: 67 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-04-2007, 11:15 PM (3 of 10)
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The honest fact is that I buy for the bust and shoulders and adjust accordingly. If you are very large busted you would have to make a full bust adjustment, but normally, if you just have an average bustline, that is by far the easiest way to do it, esp in a blouse. Adjustments to the waist and hips are easy compared to bust adjustments. http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LegalDealer
Date: 07-06-2007, 07:48 PM (4 of 10)
| Thanks for your help, and that website too. That has a great short and sweet tutorial to all sorts of problem areas. I feel more empowered now, since I went to a few classes at the sewing expo today. I might have the nerve to slash and add or deduct! I think I will compare another shirt pattern for how it is graded for where I need to add for more ease, hopefully without distorting the rest of the garment. |
User: LegalDealer
Member since: 10-19-2006 Total posts: 27
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From: paroper
Date: 07-06-2007, 08:03 PM (5 of 10)
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If you check out the whole website, there are all kinds of things...on machine care, different types of applicates...great stuff written very concisely and easy to understand and reference.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LegalDealer
Date: 07-17-2007, 11:27 AM (6 of 10)
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Update on my button down shirt: I altered the pattern using freezer paper, added over an inch to each side around the hips and this messed up the nice triangle like cut on the bust dart. This made an ugly seam edge, in addition to using 5/8 seam on the bust area side seam and reducing to 1/4 towards the hips. Sewed up anyway, and it is still a bit too snug around the hips. I think the back may not be fitted enough (I didn't alter those darts). I am off to do the collar, wish me luck. I bought two colors of the same fabric and dreaming of a different shaped shirt for the other. I am thinking of drafting it myself...small puffed sleeves and a scoop neckline, light and breezey. Should I start with a sloper? How do I do a sloper for a top? I saw in a mag recently how to do it for a sleeve, and a skirt. |
User: LegalDealer
Member since: 10-19-2006 Total posts: 27
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From: paroper
Date: 07-17-2007, 11:45 AM (7 of 10)
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Slit and finish the side seams at the hips. It will take care of your fitting problem. Many shirts are finished that way. Other people won't think anything about it. The only thing it will hurt is your pride. Once you get a good fit on the shoulders, you can add inches to the bottom of the shirt and darts to get a good fit. The worst part about fitting any garment is fitting between the neck and shoulders to the bustline. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Jouf
Date: 07-17-2007, 03:06 PM (8 of 10)
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Paroper - that is fantastic! Liked the food sections too. Thanks. And LegalDealer, good luck with that shirt! |
User: Jouf
Member since: 07-10-2007 Total posts: 25 |
From: LegalDealer
Date: 07-20-2007, 11:57 AM (9 of 10)
| Paroper! You are magic! I never thought about slit-ing the sides! Gonna check it out! Thanks! |
User: LegalDealer
Member since: 10-19-2006 Total posts: 27
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From: paroper
Date: 07-20-2007, 12:10 PM (10 of 10)
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Sometimes the answers to our problems are so easy we miss them.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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