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From: blackie
Date: 07-11-2007, 08:57 PM (1 of 15)
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I am sewing more and more knits on my regular machine. Sooner rather than later my stitches "pop" on a hem or neckline. The garment doesn't fall apart, but some stitches pop. This is very frustrating to say the least. My knit garments are made mostly according to Stretch & Sew methods. I sew with the correct needle (usually ballpoint). I stretch slightly when I sew and then usually steam the seams in place, if they need it (usually, only the self-bound neckline does). I just ordered some knits from Wazoodle and Denver Fabrics and I desperately want the resultant garments to turn out well. What am I doing wrong? see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: Suzan61
Date: 07-11-2007, 10:12 PM (2 of 15)
| It doesn't sound like your method is wrong - I would say that your fabric and thread are not compatible. As in quilting, I use 100% cotton fabric, therefore I use cotton thread. If I used a polyester thread, it would cut right through the cotton fabric first time I washed a quilt. Make sure your fabric and thread are compatible and if you're not sure, ask a salesperson at your local fabric shop. |
User: Suzan61
Member since: 03-17-2007 Total posts: 10 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 07-11-2007, 10:19 PM (3 of 15)
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Well when I was sewing knits, many years ago BTW, I'd have to stretch more than just slightly for sewing around the necks. Basically, you would have to stretch as much as it would be stretched when someone would be putting it on. Same would apply for hems...such as the hems on the bottom of the T-shirt. If it is going to be stretched when worn, then you have to stretch as much when sewing otherwise the seams will pop. BTW...found this site with some interesting info on stitches per inch when sewing stretch fabrics. Maybe this will help. http://www.amefird.com/Sewing%20_Stretch_%20Knit.htm TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 
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From: temom
Date: 07-11-2007, 11:27 PM (4 of 15)
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What stitch are you using?
Theresa
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User: temom
Member since: 01-19-2007 Total posts: 410 
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From: blackie
Date: 07-11-2007, 11:31 PM (5 of 15)
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Theresa, I've used a narrow zig-zag or a straight stitch.
see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-12-2007, 12:17 AM (6 of 15)
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Remember that most knits only stretch widthwise. If you happen to pull the knit lengthwise you actually close the stitch. The straight stitches should pop almost every time, especially across the stretch portions of the knit. A slight zig zag is better, a stretch stitch is even better than that. I don't use the stretch and sew methods although I know lots of people who have been successful with that program so I can't say that there is anything particularly wrong with it. I never stretch my knits when I sew. I always use a stretch stitch or slight zig zag and I haven't had a seam pop in years. Also, a properly adjusted serged seams is very good for knits. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: blackie
Date: 07-12-2007, 04:41 PM (7 of 15)
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My mom has a Very Fancy Serger but honestly, I am not all that into sewing on it yet. I have sewn on it of course, a lot. Maybe I'll feel more into it after we take the shop class and I bug the teacher! Hee hee. I will go back to more zig-zaggin'. "Remember that most knits only stretch widthwise. If you happen to pull the knit lengthwise you actually close the stitch. " I know that most knits only stretch on the cross-grain - but I don' t know what you mean by "close the stitch". Would you elaborate? see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-12-2007, 07:08 PM (8 of 15)
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Take a piece of knit fabric in your hand...and pull sideways...see how the fabric spreads? When you stretch as you sew across, you are adding more thread to the inch...that makes sense. You do the same if you put a slight zig zag or you use the stretch stitch. Now, pull the fabric lengthwise. Notice how the knit gets closer together? That makes it almost impossible to even sew a straight line and keep it near the same area of the grain, so when you let go, your stitches are all over the place, including across some of the cross grain, keeping it from properly stitching, which might be contributing to your problem.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: glamma1940
Date: 07-13-2007, 02:04 AM (9 of 15)
| Also, one thing I do is use a ballpoint needle. Ballpoints glide over the threads in the knit & therefore don't break the threads. I haven't had a problem since I started using needles recommended especially for knits. |
User: glamma1940
Member since: 08-11-2005 Total posts: 21 |
From: blackie
Date: 07-13-2007, 03:06 AM (10 of 15)
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Take a piece of knit fabric in your hand...and pull sideways...see how the fabric spreads? When you stretch as you sew across, you are adding more thread to the inch...that makes sense. You do the same if you put a slight zig zag or you use the stretch stitch. Now, pull the fabric lengthwise. Notice how the knit gets closer together? That makes it almost impossible to even sew a straight line and keep it near the same area of the grain, so when you let go, your stitches are all over the place, including across some of the cross grain, keeping it from properly stitching, which might be contributing to your problem. That is a great explanation. Since I am using the right needle and I don't hear that thread is a deal-breaker (that is, I don't need a fancy-fancy thread to get this to work), I'm going to try to sew with a zig zag, stretching (more than I had been) on the cross-grain but NOT on the lengthwise grain. Thanks, all! And I really don't mind any more tips if anyone has them! K. see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: Kerkyra
Date: 07-13-2007, 03:44 AM (11 of 15)
Hi blackie, I would really consider using your mum's serger!! You might need a bit of time and patience to thread it but the results are worth it. You will get even better results if you use a thread called "bulk nylon" in the loopers (the lower threads in the machine) because this thread is slightly stretchy so has some give in it for when the fabric is stretched. Also use 4 threads on the serger rather than 3 for the extra row of stitching that makes the seam stronger. I know you say you don't want to use the serger but if you have an expensive knit you will get 100% better results!! (just practise on some off-cuts first!!)
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User: Kerkyra
Member since: 07-01-2007 Total posts: 15 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 07-13-2007, 02:07 PM (12 of 15)
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Blackie, Use a zigzag or stretch stitch ALWAYS on knits sewn on a regular sewing machine.. I never stretch my seams as I sew them and have no problems with popping stitches.. But, I use my serger for construction on knits as much as possible.. Most of the knit garments I make never see my regular machine.. I construct on the serger and finish hems on my coverpro.. Sometimes if it is a very fine quality fabric, I will do a few of the seams on my regular machine.. This is really seldom, though.. I have made hundreds of garments on my serger from knit fabrics.. Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: MartySews2
Date: 07-13-2007, 05:32 PM (13 of 15)
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Blackie, I think you should try using the serger more when sewing knits. You will really like the results and your stitches won't pop. I really love my serger and use it for almost all garment construction with my sewing machine. There are just some things that can't be done on a serger. However, it is great for quick sewing projects. Happy Stitching! Marty 
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User: MartySews2
Member since: 05-03-2007 Total posts: 293 
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From: grandma C
Date: 07-14-2007, 01:35 AM (14 of 15)
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Blackie, I am a returning seamstress. Meaning I sewed a lot back in the late 70's and early 80's. Knits were pretty popular then and I don't remember stretching when I sewed unless I was stretching a self fabric band around the sleeves or the neck. I do remember using a slight zigzag stitch, (maybe more zigzag when the knit was stretchier or needed to be able to stretch more) the stretch stitch that lines up like this (lll) is great. It takes 3 stitches to 1. My machine manul calls it a tripple stretch stitch/ stating it is both elastic and durable. I just finished a swimsuit where I used the multiple zigzag stitch for the neck,armscye and legs to attach the elastic. It stretches great. It uses multiple stitches to create each zigzag. You don't have to use a serger to enjoy sewing on knits but it is fun when you get acustomed to it. I just seamed the swimsuit on my serger using wooly nylon thread and it stretches great. May God bless your efforts. I think He is partial to women who make garments. 
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User: grandma C
Member since: 01-15-2007 Total posts: 263 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 07-14-2007, 11:52 PM (15 of 15)
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I've made pajamas and couple of t-shirts lately and I simply used a ball point needle and a small zig zag and finished the seams with a three-thread overlock stitch on my serger and haven't had any problems at all with stitches popping but while I was sewing I didn't stretch any of the seams as I sewed them. Of course, I'm sewing on a new Pfaff 2056 which has the built in walking foot and it feeds not only knits but all fabrics like a dream without any stretching or uneven stitches. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
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