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From: cvnativeinpa
Date: 07-16-2007, 02:41 PM (1 of 6)
Okay, now (with sweaty palms) I'm going to design a sleeveless  dress pattern from my sloper. I want princess seams, running from the shoulder. I know I need to rotate the bust dart to the shoulder, as well as part of the back waist dart to the shoulder. Got that. But my question is, when I rotate them, then cut the pieces apart, won't they be too wide? I'm concerned as I have a 4.5" shoulder and I don't want any more width on it. Thanks for your help. It is only with the heart one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye"--Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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User: cvnativeinpa
Member since: 12-09-2003 Total posts: 10 
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 07-16-2007, 07:57 PM (2 of 6)
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When you rotate the dart to the shoulder you don't make a dart.. It is a shaped seam instead.. I love princess style for that reason.. The fitting is done in the seams and you don't have to mess with darts..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: cvnativeinpa
Date: 07-17-2007, 08:08 AM (3 of 6)
Thank you for your encouragement, Libby. As I understand it, that even though the shoulder area will be wider as a result of the dart rotation, I forget about the excess space at the shoulder. Right? In other words, are the "legs" of the "V" my stitching line? I don't know why I'm so difficult; maybe it's because I haven't had my second cup of coffee this morning...
It is only with the heart one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye"--Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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User: cvnativeinpa
Member since: 12-09-2003 Total posts: 10
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 07-19-2007, 03:02 PM (4 of 6)
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I guess I assumed the seam would extend all the way through the bodice .. That is the way I have rotated this type of thing in the past.. That makes a seam instead of a dart.. If I had a dart in my shoulder seam I would cut away the excess anyway.. But I am known to be a maverick at some of my sewing.. Whatever works..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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From: EmaCon
Date: 07-19-2007, 04:22 PM (5 of 6)
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As I understand it, you have to slash down from the shoulder to about an inch from the bust point. Close the side dart and open the slash the same amount (as the closed side dart) to make a new dart. You've now done a dart rotation. Continue slashing through the bust point and on down. Add seam allowances to each side of the slash and sew them up. You shouldn't be adding anything to the length of the shoulder seam this way. Try it on a piece of paper and then a piece of fabric to see if it works. You can make small samples just to get the idea. Sorry,I don't understand what you're doing to the back. |
User: EmaCon
Member since: 07-28-2006 Total posts: 67 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-21-2007, 08:00 PM (6 of 6)
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You slash and pivot and the dart will open where ever you put it. It can open in a princess dart in the sleeve line or in the shoulder, either way. This makes a canyon in the pattern where ever the opening is...it does not effect with width of the shoulder or any other portion of the pattern. It is really a simple procedure.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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