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From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 07-22-2007, 09:32 PM (1 of 22)
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Well, I'm finally contemplating working with a real "special occasion" type fabric for a dress to wear to a wedding that's coming up in October. The type of style I'm interested in is something like this: Simplicity 6375 (view C) (http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?dvPage=designFrontBack.cfm&design=6375) or McCall 5100 (view A) (http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5100.htm?tab=evening_prom_bridal&page=1). Has anyone used either of those patterns? The McCall's one is bias cut, but I'm not sure about the Simplicity one. I'm concerned about the fit, especially in the bust -- I'll be doing a muslin, of course, but I'm wondering if the Simplicity one might be easier to adjust with the bust darts. I'm not entirely sure what the fabric should be. I was thinking crepe back satin in a chocolate brown or rust color would be nice for fall, but I'm a bit worried I'll look like I'm in the wedding party if I accidentally choose one of their colors (the couple hasn't decided what they're going to do yet as far as the bridesmaids). Having never worked with anything slippery, shiny, or sheer..any advice on fabric choice? Georgette or charmeuse are options; I've heard chiffon is awful to work with. Anyway, thanks for reading my ramblings everyone! I have quite a few projects backed up so I won't get started on this one for a while, but the information gathering stage is one of the most fun parts for me. 
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User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006 Total posts: 222 
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From: plrlegal
Date: 07-22-2007, 10:44 PM (2 of 22)
I can see either one of those dresses made up in a chocolate brown, rust or wine colored crepe. Either one done in satin will look as though it were intended for a member of the wedding party. But that is just me. Also keep in mind that whatever fabric you use has to have a rather soft hand to hang properly, i.e., very close and draping softly over the body. At this point in my life I couldn't wear either pattern as I now have to many lumps, bumps and lovehandles that would definitely show.  However, I can imagine how gorgeous either pattern would look on a young slender figure.Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: MartySews2
Date: 07-23-2007, 12:55 AM (3 of 22)
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When I was much younger, I made a dress similar to the McCall's pattern (view A). I made it out of a soft drapey knit and wore it for several years. I would suggest a fabric like a crepe or georgette. Also, I would pick a color that was best for my coloring. The dress I made was a teal busy print and it worked for my coloring. Teal is one of my favorite colors. However, now I wear more purples, plums, wine, etc. Remember, you're going to have the dress longer than this wedding so I would choose something that could be worn to different events at different times of the year. Just some thoughts. Marty 
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User: MartySews2
Member since: 05-03-2007 Total posts: 293 
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From: IsabelleB
Date: 07-23-2007, 03:52 AM (4 of 22)
I think the McCall looks more "special" Oh, it would be so gorgeous in a chocolate or rust crepe! What a great idea.  Slippery fabrics are challenging to work with but if you hand-baste everything you'll be fine. A good option would also be to underline your crepe or georgette with a fabric that's easier to handle. Can't wait to see what you come up with
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 07-23-2007, 08:49 PM (5 of 22)
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Both look bias cut - a peachskin would hang beautifully and not look too "bridesmaid-y", but it's pretty thin. I've used a double layer of peachskin and it's worked out really nicely - allows for a good drape, but not too thin to be uncomfortable. Another suggestion could be a pretty crepe-back for the color/drape/hang, but put the satin on the inside. I did a bridesmaid dress like that, and I was hesitant at first because it just seems a waste of good satin, but it actually turned out gorgeous - the drape of satin without the sheen (which is exactly what she wanted). Pretty dresses! I think it would be stunning in a rust/autumn tone.
Kris
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User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 53 
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From: IsabelleB
Date: 07-24-2007, 02:17 AM (6 of 22)
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Kris has a point... To add fullness and drape to your outer fabric, you may also underline it. That is one of the many advantages of underlining.
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: MaryW
Date: 07-24-2007, 08:02 AM (7 of 22)
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Charmeuse is absolutely gorgeous but a bear to work with. So slippery, it makes for extra work handling and cutting out.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: SheliaHC
Date: 07-24-2007, 08:06 AM (8 of 22)
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The one thing I noticed about the Simplicity pattern was that the tie around the next could be changed to use some kind of necklace rather than the tie. My daughter had a similar neck on her senior prom dress. The dress came with a gold or silver chain and we switched it with a strand of pearls and that really softened the look. Just something to keep in mind for future use of the dress. By the way both dresses are really pretty. Shelia |
User: SheliaHC
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 95 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-24-2007, 08:08 AM (9 of 22)
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I underline a lot of things but I'd be a bit iffy about underlining something cut on the bias -- won't it change the drape? I like the idea of crepe or peachskin. Neither are really hard to work with. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 07-24-2007, 06:29 PM (10 of 22)
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Hmm.. you guys have my wheels turning. I think crepe is probably the way to go -- it doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to handle, but would still turn out nice and drapey. I like your idea, Kris, of using the crepe side of the crepe-back satin -- if I don't end up finding something I like online, our Joann's seems to have a nice selection of colors of crepe back satin. As far as crepe goes..there seem to be a lot of options -- here's what I've found: Matte crepe suiting from Fabric.com (http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-suiting-fabric-matte-crepe-suiting-fabric-matte-crepe-suiting-chocolate.aspx) Crepe suiting from Fashion fabrics club (http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=EE581) #3, FFC (http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=R941) #4 "light weight" from FFC (http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=R347) #5, last one from FFC (http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=J528) Have any of your ordered any of these? I'm leaning towards brown since I could have a lot of fun changing it up with colorful accessories. The first is the most expensive, but I'm not sure if that means higher quality or not and of course a swatch isn't available for that one. I can order 1/8 yard samples from FFC. I still have to check out Hancock and Joann and see if they have anything that looks reasonable, but my hopes aren't too high on that. The pattern calls for underlining and lining..I don't have the pattern yet, and I haven't peeked at the instructions. Do you think leaving out the underlining would be ok? I'm with Dorothy that I'm worried an underlining would stiffen the fabric too much. Also, what do you guys thing about lining fabrics? It calls for charmeuse, but I'm a bit worried about the static issue. Denver fabrics claims that Bemberg rayon is somewhat antistatic -- is it drapey enough for this dress? I was leaning towards the McCall's pattern until I saw Shelia's suggestion about switching out the tie with a necklace. That would be really fun since I like to make jewelry too! Well, maybe I can come up with an excuse to make both. I'm afraid I'm taking a bit of a risk with the style. I've lost about 30 pounds since my highest point and am actually starting to look somewhat toned (but only a little) so I'm on my way to that "young, slender figure" Patsy mentions, but I've never worn this style of dress. Maybe I should try to look for something similar at a department store just to try on... I'd hate to put so much work into making this dress and then chicken out when it comes to wearing it! Anyway, sorry this got a bit longer than I intended. Thanks again ladies -- it's always helpful and fun to hear your ideas! http://www.sew-whats-up.com - the new home for Sew What's New
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User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006 Total posts: 222
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From: Sherri
Date: 07-24-2007, 06:57 PM (11 of 22)
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I can't wear anything cut on the Bias it makes me look like an overstuffed sausage. But I think either of those dresses would look awesome in Crepe. Especially if you had a bust worth showing off. Sher My website
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User: Sherri
Member since: 02-07-2001 Total posts: 357 |
From: IsabelleB
Date: 07-25-2007, 05:35 AM (12 of 22)
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How about lining it with lightweight batiste? Anti-static and oh so soft against the skin. I understand your reservations on underlining the crepe... I guess underlining it in silk organza might not make it too bulky... but I don't know how much it costs for you (and whether cost is a factor). It is very expensive in France. Trying a similar dress in a shop is a great idea.
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: Kerkyra
Date: 07-25-2007, 06:14 AM (13 of 22)
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A few things!! Be careful with your choice of underlining!!!! Try to choose something with a similar stretch on the bias otherwise you will have problems with your underlining and fashion fabric stretching by different amounts. Also when you sew the sections that are cut on the bias, take larger seam allowances (most of the stretch occurs at the cut edge so the further away from the edge you stitch the less stretch on the seam you get) and baste and hang for at least a day before sewing. Bias cut clothing looks fantastic but is a pain in the bum to sew!!! Sarah  PS Sorry if you already know all that already!!! |
User: Kerkyra
Member since: 07-01-2007 Total posts: 15 |
From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 07-26-2007, 02:10 PM (14 of 22)
Thanks for all the tips, Sarah -- I've never worked with anything bias cut, so that was all new to me! I would have never thought to baste it and let it hang. I wonder if I'm going to get myself in over my head.  Isabelle, batiste for the lining is a great idea. I think I'll have a hard time finding it in brown though and it might look odd in a contrasting color. It would probably dye well, though, being cotton.. hmm.. Silk organza isn't really an option since I'm a vegetarian, but now you've reminded me of a fabric called "peace silk" that is a kind of raw silk made without killing the silk worms: Peace silk (http://www.aurorasilk.com/fabrics/silks_matte_and_peace/ahimsa_bombyx_peace/smooth_spun_silk.html) I would love to make a dress out of that, but maybe I'll wait until I have a bit more experience. I would hate to make a mistake at $26/yard. Sher -- I don't know if I've ever worn anything bias cut except for maybe a blouse, so I'll have to see about the over-stuffed sausage issue... Well, keep the suggestions coming if you have them. I might venture out to the fabric stores this afternoon since I don't have much else to do (well, at least that I feel like doing..). http://www.sew-whats-up.com - the new home for Sew What's New
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User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006 Total posts: 222
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From: Kerkyra
Date: 07-26-2007, 03:53 PM (15 of 22)
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Hi another basting tip for bias!!! Don't knot the thread when you baste and leave a good amount of thread at each end so that when you hang the pieces before sewing they can stretch freely. I read this somewhere a long time ago, but can't remember where!! Anyway it works!! If you are worried about a stuffed sausage look stay away from shiny fabrics (mind you the pattern doesn't look as if it's tight fitting). Sarah
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User: Kerkyra
Member since: 07-01-2007 Total posts: 15 |
From: Sherri
Date: 07-26-2007, 04:23 PM (16 of 22)
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Thanks for all the tips, make a mistake at $26/yard. Sher -- I don't know if I've ever worn anything bias cut except for maybe a blouse, so I'll have to see about the over-stuffed sausage issue... Go to a store and try on something Bias Cut. Really I can not wear it it makes me feel horrible just looking them. Even though there are so many cute styles. My website
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User: Sherri
Member since: 02-07-2001 Total posts: 357 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-01-2007, 08:29 AM (17 of 22)
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If you have a decent figure, a good pattern and fabric that will drape well, there is nothing more flattering than a bias cut dress...they just flow and move so well. If, on the other hand you have serious figure problems, I'd stay away from the bias cut. Crepe is nice but have you considered a nice jersey? I absolutely love the feel and look of a nice bias jersey fabric!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 08-01-2007, 02:10 PM (18 of 22)
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Pam -- I'm glad you brought up jersey. I tried on a 3 dresses the other day that were similar in style to the pattern I want to make -- 2 of them were jersey, and one was actually bias cut (a very gaudy gold metallic fabric, and the tie at the neck was a big chunky wooden necklace...very odd). They all seemed fine as far as the style on me, but one of the jersey ones in particular was very pretty and felt so nice on. I almost bought it except that it was a blue and white print and they used the same fabric for the lining of the top, and the blue print from the lining showed through the white in some spots. Oh well -- I bet I can make a better dress for less than $50. Should I go down a size if I do it in a stretchy knit? I don't want it to be super tight, but I hate it when things come out way too big. Come to think of it, I have a bunch of jersey knit that I got for $1 a yard a year ago, so I could still do a muslin. http://www.sew-whats-up.com - the new home for Sew What's New
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User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006 Total posts: 222
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From: paroper
Date: 08-01-2007, 05:51 PM (19 of 22)
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Use your judgement. You don't want it to be too tight but at the same time, you can always take it up but letting it out is a PAIN!! I'd compare my measurments to the pattern measurments and go from there. One of the recommended fabrics is jersey and I think you'd be pleased.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MartySews2
Date: 08-02-2007, 08:27 AM (20 of 22)
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Michael Kors had a dress similar to the style that you are looking at in his fall 2007 collection. You can view it at [url]www.style.com/MichaelKors. Be sure to check the stretch factor on your jersey. Sounds like you have a definite plan. Go for it ... Marty
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User: MartySews2
Member since: 05-03-2007 Total posts: 293
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From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 08-02-2007, 01:37 PM (21 of 22)
Marty -- is this dress (http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2007RTW/complete/slideshow/MKORS?event=show1543&designer=design_house18&trend=&iphoto=58) the one you were referring to? It's gorgeous! I don't know how the models don't trip, though -- look how long it is, and it already looks like the edge is caught under her sandal.  Hancock has a sale on McCall's patterns today, so I'm finally going to go pick up this pattern.
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User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006 Total posts: 222
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From: MartySews2
Date: 08-02-2007, 03:51 PM (22 of 22)
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Yes, that's the one. You would look gorgeous in something like that in my opinion. Marty
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User: MartySews2
Member since: 05-03-2007 Total posts: 293
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