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From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 07-24-2007, 09:05 PM (1 of 14)
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I swear, I haven't had a wedding dress give me this much trouble in years. This ties back to a previous post I made on hemming a gown for a bride with uneven legs. There is no pattern, it's all in my head - loads of fun. The good news is that I'm being paid well for my time.  Okay - the top of the dress is based on this design: http://blogs.indiewire.com/reverseshot/archives/1820_1351_WITHERSPOON_REESE_400.jpg The skirt looks something like this: http://www.sewingcentral.com/images/tv208.jpg view B, with the big drape down the front. My bride is tiny. Very, very tiny. I am accustomed to sewing for plus-sized brides/bridesmaids, so this has been a challenge (I'll tell the strange but true tale of Bridesmaidzilla sometime so you can have a laugh). Maybe her petite-ness is why this is so frustrating for me. Her bra size is a 34B. I have boning in there up the ying-yang, and that sucker just will not stay up - mostly because of the weight of the train and bustle (about 7 pounds). I need to take a seam in a little bit, and there's a little bit of a "pouch" by her belly that needs to come in, but I'm not convinced this will make the dress stay up. The tulle on the shoulders, etc, is not strong enough to take the weight of the dress, so the dress needs to stay up on its' own. Okay - problem #2. The !@#&%* bustle. First try - snaps and hooks/eyes. NO GO - looked terrible. Second try - ties. NO GO - looked terrible. Third try - ties with hooks and eyes. NO GO - looked terrible. Fine. Fourth try - sewed the bustle on halfway, ties and hooks/eyes on other half. NO WAY - looks even worse, because half of it looks good (sewn on) and half looks nasty. By "looks terrible", what I mean is that there's gaps. This bustle is so freaking heavy, it just won't stay on. I think I have three choices: (1) Literally sew her into her dress on her wedding day. Amazingly, she is not against this, but is worried on how her then-DH will get her out of it without ripping it. lol (2) Find some way to cover the gaps - flounce, lace, tulle, buttons (she has stone buttons down the back covering the zip). (3) Throw out the whole stupid thing and start over (really not desirable at all...the wedding is less than 2 weeks away, and I have one more bridesmaid dress to make, too). Any suggestions? I can take a pic if you're interested in seeing - I never have looked to see how to upload pics here, but I could link to them. I'm just so frustrated. I know there's an easier explanation to this, but I've been living, eating and breathing this dress for the last 2 weeks, since the problem started with the bustle - and I think it's just a case of needing to step away from it.  I'm very lucky - the bride is a friend and is NO where near a Bridezilla (her bridesmaid makes up for it). She's open to suggestions. I'm more than open.  tia! Kris
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User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 53 
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From: PaulineG
Date: 07-24-2007, 10:02 PM (2 of 14)
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This may sound silly but why not cut it in half. If you make the top separately can you hold up the skirt with a concealed waistband (at the front have the bodice of the top extend over the skirt and have the top of the bustle hide where the top finishes at the back.
Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: MartySews2
Date: 07-24-2007, 11:38 PM (3 of 14)
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I must agree with Pauline on creating 2 separate pieces for the gown. You can add stay-tape around the bust and take in the seam a little. With the skirt, it should hold up fine with a snug waistband. Check this website for help with the bustle - www.vintagesewing.com as it should be able to give you some suggestions on skirts from that era. In the late 1800's most women wore separates. Hope this helps. Marty 
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User: MartySews2
Member since: 05-03-2007 Total posts: 293 
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From: paroper
Date: 07-24-2007, 11:39 PM (4 of 14)
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That is what I was wondering. Can you make the top as a light weight overlay that goes over the skirt and hide the waist of the skirt under the overlay? This would allow you to hang most of the weight of the skirt (perhaps) from a waistband. Another idea...make a stay for the top that attaches underneath at the waistband. Make it very fitted so that the top cannot slip down? I often hide elastic in the linings in the top of off the shoulder garments just to make sure that it will hug the body. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: PaulineG
Date: 07-25-2007, 12:10 AM (5 of 14)
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So my suggestion isn't riduculous - that makes me feel better. I was sure I was going to be scoffed at - in the nicest possible way.
Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-25-2007, 12:16 AM (6 of 14)
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No I don't think so at all. I'm not 100% sure that those bustled skirts from the by-gone era were not in two pieces to begin with...at least you never see them without a waistband or hung from a dress with a full bodice. The reason I think they might have been in two pieces though is because the women were very practical. They often wore partical sleeves from their wrist to the elbow to protect and keep their sleeves clean and they wore lots of aprons. My grandmother who was born in 1888 wore a different apron when she went out to feed her cattle or work in the yard and then changed to a household apron when she was in the house. She gatherd eggs, fed chickens, picked fruit and all kinds of things in her outdoor apron. One of our neighbors came in the yard just in time to see her catch a calf from a standing cow (wouldn't lay down) in her apron. It would make sense that the bustling and all that would be added over a skirt to make it more formal and to make a "clean" presentation. They didn't wash often and washing all those thick layers of clothing had to be the pits...imagine wearing all that in the heat of summer...YUCK!!! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: IsabelleB
Date: 07-25-2007, 04:45 AM (7 of 14)
Less than two weeks away... That means August 4, right? Just like my wedding!  I agree with the idea of making it a two-piece dress. Otherwise - did you put a sturdy waist stay into the bodice? I guess so since you sound very experienced! Sorry if my question is silly... I discovered waist stays only a few months ago. In my own wedding dress, the waist stay helps so much carry the weight of the heavy dupioni skirt. Made a world of difference to the way the dressed behaved. What may help also would be to re-make the dress in lighter fabrics but you're probably not keen on doing that, both for financial reasons and time constraints! Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 07-25-2007, 11:28 AM (8 of 14)
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I knew it, I knew it, I knew it! :lol: I had a feeling that if I just stepped away from it and described it to you, you would have more ideas than what could come out of my (fried, baked, over-used) mind. It's one of those things like - you don't even see the clutter in your house anymore because you see it every day and don't even consider how sloppy it looks. Anyway - I'm going to call Bride and see if she is open to a two piece dress. I'm thinking she will - like I said, she's really easy to work with, and she has already mentioned that she would like to separate the skirt after the wedding to be able to wear the bodice as a top (not my style, but hey, I'm just the one who made it...I don't have to wear it!). I do have a waist stay in, plus so much boning it's close to a corset. That stupid bustle just weighs it down so much...but with it separate, the weight would be on a waistband, and would be covered by the way the rest of the dress is - with the drape. At the connection of the drape, she is having flowers from her bouquet sewn on, so that will cover anything showing in the back. I could hide a zip under the drape, even, to put the skirt on. Love it! Love it! You ladies ROCK! thank you thank you thank you! ('course, now I'm having a real "DUH" moment on why I didn't think of that before...I'm going to console myself that I'm just too close to the dress and figuring it out...) 
Kris
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User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 53
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From: IsabelleB
Date: 07-25-2007, 11:32 AM (9 of 14)
Yay Kris! I'm glad you found help. That is exactly why those boards are just so great. The people here are skilled, helpful AND kind.  I hope your bride will be OK with you posting pictures here? I'm sure we are several here dying to see your beautiful work
Isabelle
Sewing blog: Kitty Couture |
User: IsabelleB
Member since: 10-25-2006 Total posts: 265 |
From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 07-25-2007, 12:11 PM (10 of 14)
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Isabelle - I was just poking through your blog & site and your dress is going to be STUNNING! Wow, how beautiful that will be with the two colors! You must be so excited (well, the wedding day AND the dress, that is! lol) My bride is getting married on the 10th, so I guess a little over 2 weeks. Two of her bridesmaids aren't even getting into the STATE until the 6th. Fun! That whole week is dedicated to them, but hopefully there won't be that many alterations. That's one reason why I reaaaaaally really really want her dress done before then. Plus, she'll get nervous (as any bride would) as we get closer. I'm sure she'll be fine with me posting pics. I just need to get some! lol Actually, I'm so unhappy with how it's going at the moment, I haven't taken any at all. She's delighted with it, it's just me as designer/sewer that doesn't like how it looks. I emailed her with the suggestion - I think she'll go for it as a two-piece. then, I just have to get to it! But, I think once I know what I'll do, it won't take that long to separate the pieces. I'm so excited now at the idea of having it done - and done correctly, so it looks outstanding. As soon as she lets me know...man...I'm outta the gates and getting it done!
Kris
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User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 53
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From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 07-25-2007, 01:05 PM (11 of 14)
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Woo hoo! Just got an email back from Bride - her exact response was "Sounds great - do what you need to". I love this girl. I really wish all my brides were like this - so easy to please. So tonight...comes the ripping apart of the dress. I've really been thinking about this, and here's the plan: ~Find a lightweight, strong material to match the off-white of her dress ~I'll need a second invisible zip ~And some hem tape. Possibly bias tape. Maybe self-fabric bias. Not sure on that yet. I think that's all I'll have to buy. Okay: ~mock up pattern with the dress intact ~make a yoke-type piece with a waistband out of the new, lighter-weight material (the bodice is actually below the natural waistline, long bodice, skirt in front starts at about the hipline, rises to about 3" below natural waist in back) - size waistband to natural waist on dress ~detach skirt from bodice ~take out invisible zip from center back, sew up seam ~attach yoke piece with opening in side seam ~insert invisible zip into side seam ~sew on the rest of the @!#%( bustle. And that should make the skirt! Then, the bodice: ~seal bottom of invisible zip in back before it separates ~attach drape to front of bodice (right now, it's technically attached to the skirt piece) ~finish bodice lower edges (haven't thought this complete through yet - it needs to look good against the skirt, so I don't want horsehair with a flared edge...still thinking on this one) And then ~determine attachment of the two - I'm thinking I'll need some strategically placed hooks or snaps to make sure the bodice doesn't ride on her too much now without the weight of the bustle (ironic, isn't it? It wouldn't stay up before with the weight of the bustle...now, I'm thinking it's going to ride up) I am soooo excited that she approved this - this was such a weight on my shoulders, because I hate it when things don't go together right, and I'll be darned if I'm going to let a bride walk down the aisle with a dress I made that looks like crap. You've saved my professional pride. And reputation, too! Thanks a lot for the fresh heads on it - I'll get some pics next week! Now that I'm feeling good about it again, I'll make sure to get some taken.
Kris
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User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 53
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From: jwright
Date: 07-25-2007, 01:26 PM (12 of 14)
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that sounds really neat... do post pictures when it is done! You might also think about putting some kind of wrap between the two pieces to tie them together. maybe put some hooks and eyelets on the inside to make sure it appears to be one piece. Then you could make a bigger bow in the back--maybe some emrodiery on the straight pieces of the ribbon to make it look more elegant.. Just a thought. |
User: jwright
Member since: 12-28-2006 Total posts: 96 
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From: Kerkyra
Date: 07-25-2007, 01:57 PM (13 of 14)
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Hiya, the bodice shouldn't ride up if your using a waist tape. What sort of boning are you using? you might want to think about steel boning (expensive but worth it!). Also re the bustle what about velcro (don't know what u call it in the states, it's got one side furry and the other scratchy) Good luck (totally agree with the 2 piece idea!!)
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User: Kerkyra
Member since: 07-01-2007 Total posts: 15 |
From: MartySews2
Date: 07-26-2007, 11:18 AM (14 of 14)
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In looking at photos of DH's grandmother, she wore 2 piece outfits with a removable bustle in the late 1800's. Sounds like you have a great plan to finish this beautiful dress. Marty
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User: MartySews2
Member since: 05-03-2007 Total posts: 293
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