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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: blackie
Date: 07-27-2007, 01:28 AM (1 of 13)
I finally got more time on my corset (after sewing more for the kids). I thought I'd show some pics (the following is from my sew blog):

Busk Before
Corsetry 101 for those unfamiliar: The back of this Victorian corset laces up. The front opens and closes with aid of a busk - sort of like a modern-day bra's back closure. You sew the busk in, which is what I did today. The front center top of the corset is represented by the safety pins - a tip from the invaluable Laughing Moon DVD.

Stop & Go
After you trace the closure positions on the right-hand side of the corset (marking the wrong side of lining), you stitch and backstitch to leave openings in between the lining and shell. Then turn, press, and topstitch reinforce: you can see I've marked with pins where I need to leave an opening for the closures.

Insertion (tee hee!)
Here I'm inserting the right-hand busk side between lining and shell.

Reading For Topstitching
Topstitch busk in place. I did a pretty wonky job. Will do better next time; I need a different zipper foot for this.

"In The Light Of A Clear Blue Morning"...
Busk in place.

Insertion, Part Two
Setting post-side of busk. I'm starting to enjoy punching (or rather, awling) holes in fabric. This was easier than grommet setting (by hand, mallet, and die set) as well.

Giving It My Awl
To drive in awl: here my fingers are positioned on front center seam. Put the awl perpendicular while driving it in for the most exact placement.

Today I also applied shrink tubing to the ends of my laces (aglet and crimper will be bought at a future date) and am ready to sew the shell together for the second fitting. Fun and more fun!

( Flickr tag set on corsetry)
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: MaryW
Date: 07-27-2007, 11:41 AM (2 of 13)
It's going to be just gorgeous.:up:
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: MartySews2
Date: 07-27-2007, 06:38 PM (3 of 13)
Sounds like you are making a lot of progress. Can't wait to see it finished.
Marty:smile:
User: MartySews2
Member since: 05-03-2007
Total posts: 293
From: ddreev
Date: 07-27-2007, 07:45 PM (4 of 13)
You have better illustrations and instructions than the books! Do you do this for a living? You are great at it... beside the fact the corset is going to be beautiful.

Dorothy D.
Dorothy D.
User: ddreev
Member since: 05-29-2007
Total posts: 69
From: esrun3
Date: 07-27-2007, 11:07 PM (5 of 13)
You are moving right along! I love the fabric and can't wait to see it finished!
Lyn
User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004
Total posts: 2345
From: grandma C
Date: 07-28-2007, 12:59 AM (6 of 13)
You make me want to try! How kind of you to give us a play by play ie.. tutorial. I am anxiously waiting the next installment.
User: grandma C
Member since: 01-15-2007
Total posts: 263
From: MaryW
Date: 07-28-2007, 10:26 AM (7 of 13)
Yes Blackie, you do this very, very well. Very clear and easily understood with excellent photography.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: Magot
Date: 07-28-2007, 12:37 PM (8 of 13)
That busk is interesting - I have not seen one of those before. I was imagining you were going to be doing the grommets thing - I think you get a better finish your way. Do you lace it with ribband or cord in the end?
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us
Cells a Speciality
DNA to order.
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002
Total posts: 3626
From: blackie
Date: 07-29-2007, 12:02 AM (9 of 13)
You have better illustrations and instructions than the books! Do you do this for a living? You are great at it... beside the fact the corset is going to be beautiful.

Yes Blackie, you do this very, very well. Very clear and easily understood with excellent photography.

Thank you so much!

I love making tutorials. I don't want to really make a thorough tutorial here because my method is Laughing Moon's and they have a DVD that should be purchased for their expertise. It would be interesting to see if they'd like a text and photo version for sale as a pdf or download in some way - for those who don't want a DVD.

That busk is interesting - I have not seen one of those before. I was imagining you were going to be doing the grommets thing - I think you get a better finish your way. Do you lace it with ribband or cord in the end?

The busk is for the front; the grommets and laces for the back. The busk is so you can loosen, but not unlace, then put it on and either lace yourself or just spend a few minutes tightening. I am using cord, not ribbon.

Thanks for your interest!
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: Magot
Date: 07-29-2007, 03:26 PM (10 of 13)
A ggod friend of mine just remarried and wanted me to make a corset for her for her wedding gown. However she found and bought one instead and that was great. Practical tip however - she wore the corset for a day before she was getting married and discovered that she could not actually swallow any food - it just got stuck as there was no where for it to go. She also could not bend to get into a car (not your problem I know Kelly).

So having removed corset she had another practice run another day and didn't lace it up so tight - much more successful all round. However - on her wedding day she again wore the corset - fantastic cleavage in front - she looked stunning - but as an ample woman it also had the effect of elevating the fat she carried on her back as well and it looked like she had a bust at the back instead of shoulder blades.

I think you said you would be wearing a shift with this, yes? So any unintentional extras will be discreetel hidden. I don't expect you will have the same problem at all, with all you elite fitting skills - I was a bit sad that my friend had been sold something spectacular from the front and a little disappointing from the rear.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us
Cells a Speciality
DNA to order.
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002
Total posts: 3626
From: blackie
Date: 07-29-2007, 07:45 PM (11 of 13)
Jan - what a great story! I think your friend is going for a few things I am not. For one, this isn't a very "cleavagey" corset. I tend to shy away from showing cleavage anyway not out of modesty but personal style. Also, this is not a "tight-lacing" corset for waist training nor is it an attempt to drastically alter my shape. So I think I can avoid some of the possible negative outcomes you discuss.

Funny about the 'not eating' part - as my mom laced this up on the first fitting I was eating a huge (vegetarian) burger and tater tots!

When I first started sewing it I worried about the "chicken cutlet" back emerging form the top of the corset. But I think though if you fit this correctly it doesn't happen. I have no sign of "extras" anywhere when I put this on. I chalk this up to Laughing Moon's great methods! I know I keep going on about them (NAYY) but they really did put out a quality pattern and directions.
see the mundane life of a housewife.
User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004
Total posts: 594
From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 07-29-2007, 08:33 PM (12 of 13)
Blackie -- I am so impressed! I think it is going to turn out just lovely. I never knew what a busk was for -- neat idea. I always imagined getting into a corset required another pair of hands, but I suppose the busk makes it a bit easier to do yourself!

. . . but as an ample woman it also had the effect of elevating the fat she carried on her back as well and it looked like she had a bust at the back instead of shoulder blades.

Oh my! You've just hit on my pet peeve of corsets/strapless dresses. They seem to have the uncanny ability to make a nice roll of back fat, sometimes even when there isn't much to begin with! It might be unavoidable if you want a super tight corset, but I think one should be able to avoid it with a properly fitted strapless dress...yet I see it all the time. Why?? Sorry for the rant, but I just had to get that out. :bg:
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User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006
Total posts: 222
From: Magot
Date: 07-30-2007, 01:54 AM (13 of 13)
I thnk you hit it Kaitin when you said a "properly fitting backless dress"
Most rtw is for an average size and we wear them and declare it a good enough fit. In most cases it is fine - but for a fitted dress there are all the problems of different shaped backs and fronts and the need to have it supportive enough to stay up! I think people tend to go for tighter is sfer and pay the consequences.

Looking at your pattern Kelly is is a different shaped corset altogether and as you say - properly fitting it should be no problem to you at all. I was going back over my friends photos and noticed spare underarm flesh escaping as well - I think I'll just destroy those pictures and send her the flattering ones. My SIL finds that a properly made fitting corset is the most comfortable garment she possesses (feels like there are too many s's in that). Hers are historically accurate tudor corsets so require a different silhuoette again - flattening the bust completely
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us
Cells a Speciality
DNA to order.
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002
Total posts: 3626
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