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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
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From: st13031
Date: 07-28-2007, 09:54 PM (1 of 8)
Ok, I have one other quesiton tonight..  I have been using interfacing (Iron-On-Medium to light weight) on some refular cotton print fabrics for tote bags, and I have found that by the time I am done with the bag, and had to pull it through the hole to get right side out, there are all these creases in the material... and I have tried to iron them back out, but it seems to still crinkle up and not be as pretty any more... I tired a lighter weight interfacing, but it was too flimsy... Any ideas? tips? Thanks so much, you all are so knowledgable and helpful! I love this site! |
User: st13031
Member since: 02-27-2007 Total posts: 35 |
From: toadusew
Date: 07-29-2007, 09:30 AM (2 of 8)
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You might need to use either a heavier weight fabric such as canvas, twill, or duck for your tote bags, which might make them sturdier. However, I do think that the medium/regular weight cottons can work, too, if interfaced properly. I learned this tip from Sandra Betzina when her show was still on HGTV. I apply interfacing this way all the time, and never have a problem. First, the interfacing must be pre-shrunk, and in my case, the pieces are so small that I usuall spritz them with water, hold the iron over them (interfacing glue side up!) and steam it. I put it aside to dry. When the interfacing is dry, I also iron the pattern piece to be interfaced, then lay the interfacing down on the fabric (glue side down!), put a press cloth over that, spritz it with water, and then press by holding the iron down for about 10 seconds (apply lots of pressure by holding the iron firmly; I also use lots of steam), the lift the iron up, overlap where you have just applied the interfacing, and put the iron down on the next part of the piece--moving along the piece until you have completely adhered the interfacing. It is important to lift the iron and move it to the next spot, and not slide it along. Once you've adhered the interfacing to the wrong side of the pattern piece, turn it over, and repeat the whole process, which will give you a nice interfaced piece. (Once in a while you can get the iron too hot, and that can cause the interfacing to bubble.) I mostly sew garments and have found that the knit interfacing, like French Fuse or Fusi-knit, works best for me. Your project may require a stiffer interfacing, though. One other tip I would add is to buy the best quality interfacing that you can afford because it really will make a difference in your project. Happy Sewing!
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User: toadusew
Member since: 01-08-2005 Total posts: 369 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-29-2007, 09:59 AM (3 of 8)
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Try a sew-in rather than iron-on interfacing for a tote. It's completely enclosed between the outside and the lining so it won't show and your fashion fabric will not depend on how the interfacing behaves. You can use a broadcloth or lightweight canvas for body rather than a regular manufactured interfacing. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: st13031
Date: 07-29-2007, 01:07 PM (4 of 8)
| Great answers, thank you! I have been thinking about using sew-in interfacing, but didn't know how to do it and worried it would be difficult, however the iron on has been more time comsuming and difficult than I have expected, so I think it is worth a try... Also thought about using batting? But didn't know the best to sew it in either? Any thoughts or help on those? Thanks! |
User: st13031
Member since: 02-27-2007 Total posts: 35 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-29-2007, 02:55 PM (5 of 8)
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I usually use a low loft batting in bags -- cotton or polyester, usually poly. You can also get an iron on batting but the ironing seems to flatten it. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: PaulineG
Date: 07-29-2007, 03:14 PM (6 of 8)
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I've seen instructions for using a heavy weight sew in interfacing to make totes where they suggested using a spray on adhesive to give the same effect as iron on but without bubbling. I haven't tried it but thought it sounded good.
Pauline
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User: PaulineG
Member since: 09-08-2006 Total posts: 901 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 08-01-2007, 10:02 PM (7 of 8)
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Just a thought, are you pressing your interfacing or ironing it?? If you iron (with a back and forth movement) it will stretch it out and cause wrinkles. Pressing (just holding the iron in place for 8-10 seconds) shouldn't cause wrinkling.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: mozeyrn
Date: 08-01-2007, 10:24 PM (8 of 8)
|
I use fusible interfacing when making tote bags. If need a bag to have more body, I'll use a heavier weight interfacing. I haven't tried the sew-in type. Toadusew couldn't have said it any better. A pressing cloth is great to use - especially if there's a chance of scorching the fabric. And just like everyone said, don't move the iron along the fabric, lift it off and press it down for 10 secs and then lift it again for another section. Just make sure before you press it that you smooth it out with your hands to flatten out any possible wrinkles. - Maureen.
Learning something new with every stitch!! Kenmore 16231000 |
User: mozeyrn
Member since: 11-29-2005 Total posts: 349 |
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